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DIY Cable Gallery!! - Page 916

post #13726 of 15065
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arty McGhee View Post
 

rewired bike helmet

for the 3rd time

cable stripped from mogami 2799

drivers from koss titanium (10 bucks amazon)

shortened neutrik right angle plugs

attached E6 with velcro

 

finally sounds good with no distortion

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Very clever. I love retrofit DIY projects. Great work!

post #13727 of 15065
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJScope View Post
 

 

Very clever. I love retrofit DIY projects. Great work!

thanks

 

this is my 3rd bluetooth helmet

(and 3rd rework this one so its like #6)

they all just sound like total crap

 

all i'm using from stock is the bluetooth module

post #13728 of 15065
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arty McGhee View Post
 

thanks

 

this is my 3rd bluetooth helmet

(and 3rd rework this one so its like #6)

they all just sound like total crap

 

all i'm using from stock is the bluetooth module

 

I don't know what kind of BT module you are using, but if you get one like this: LINKit's capable of streaming 16/48 audio, which should be very adequate for the application. Plus it's cheap enough to rip apart. Also, the way you have the drivers in the helmet means that they will resonate like crazy. You need them in some kind of enclosure. That's probably why you were getting so much distortion. I think the Koss KSC75 would do great in this situation.

post #13729 of 15065
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJScope View Post
 

 

I don't know what kind of BT module you are using, but if you get one like this: LINKit's capable of streaming 16/48 audio, which should be very adequate for the application. Plus it's cheap enough to rip apart. Also, the way you have the drivers in the helmet means that they will resonate like crazy. You need them in some kind of enclosure. That's probably why you were getting so much distortion. I think the Koss KSC75 would do great in this situation.

the bluetooth is built in to the helmet

 

 

so i have volume control etc.

the signal is clean at low volume

hence the need for the amp

the drivers are from koss KTXPRO1's 

its the same style as the KSC75 but

a different driver still they are in the enclosure

from the headphone and inside a pocket in the helmet liner

its pretty good sounding now with no distortion

at a decent volume, its a bit of a tradeoff because 

i don't want to modify, cut or drill any part of the helmet

for safety reasons... 

post #13730 of 15065
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arty McGhee View Post

the bluetooth is built in to the helmet




so i have volume control etc.
the signal is clean at low volume
hence the need for the amp
the drivers are from koss KTXPRO1's 
its the same style as the KSC75 but
a different driver still they are in the enclosure
from the headphone and inside a pocket in the helmet liner
its pretty good sounding now with no distortion
at a decent volume, its a bit of a tradeoff because 
i don't want to modify, cut or drill any part of the helmet
for safety reasons... 

Ahh OK! I get it.
post #13731 of 15065

Ok here's a shot in the dark....

 

I have a Single Ended Silver Poison Frank made for my Sennheiser IE8's.

He's now sending me a Balanced Viper to replace it, So I have a spare Silver poison!

 

Heres my problem..

 

I have a pair of Beyerdynamic T50p Teslas that were given to me as faulty/not working.

 

After a rather clumsy fumble around with the original cable and then a spare Switchcraft 3.5 I had laying around, I've figured its the Jack.

 

Anyway, Its still not sounding fantastic and I know its down to my temporary measures...

 

So, Im thinking I want to use the Silver Poison I already have to replace the existing cable.

Ill leave the Viablue 3.5 on one end, But when I disconnect the IE8 connectors, How do I know which wire is positive etc ( With it all the same colour )???...

 

I have a multi meter but haven't got a clue how to use one!

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated folks, Thank you in advance!! :)

post #13732 of 15065

How do I know which wire is positive etc ( With it all the same colour )???...

 

I have a multi meter but haven't got a clue how to use one!

 

 

Put your multimeter on the ends of the wires and on the 3 x invidual sections of the viablue. Use a marker.

 

Quick google of a pic

 

Edit: Turn your MM to the sound/beeper so when you connect the two conductors i.e. the tip and the correct wire it beeps

 

 

 

Hope this makes sense and helps :)


Edited by Anthony1 - 7/3/14 at 6:31am
post #13733 of 15065

What settings on the meter?

Then what after I do that?

Seriously I have NO idea.....

post #13734 of 15065
For future reference, we have a thread just for questions/comments/whatever. smily_headphones1.gifLINK
post #13735 of 15065

Thank You Kind Sir :)

post #13736 of 15065

I want to thank Jodgey for the help and encouragement, I finished my first DIY with soldering ever today, two rca interconnects.  My nylon sleeve and heatshrink only fit the mogami mini starquad I'm going to use next for my headphone cable so these are plain looking naked cables but knowing I made these myself I feel extra confident about a good solid connection when I plug them in.  Haven't had time to compare sound yet

neutrik rean nys373 rca plugs, mogami W2524 instrument cable, cardas quad eutectic solder, 2 feet interconnects

 

 

post #13737 of 15065
Quote:
Originally Posted by uncola View Post
 

I want to thank Jodgey for the help and encouragement, I finished my first DIY with soldering ever today, two rca interconnects.  My nylon sleeve and heatshrink only fit the mogami mini starquad I'm going to use next for my headphone cable so these are plain looking naked cables but knowing I made these myself I feel extra confident about a good solid connection when I plug them in.  Haven't had time to compare sound yet

neutrik rean nys373 rca plugs, mogami W2524 instrument cable, cardas quad eutectic solder, 2 feet interconnects

I'm really glad to have helped! They look great - a very clean and classy look!

post #13738 of 15065
post #13739 of 15065
post #13740 of 15065

The first based on the thick Carol is pretty flexible.

With the grey Techflex it was a little too thick for the heat shrink to fit, so I fixed the Techflex just using electrical tape.

The individual 10 AWG however didn't fit into the IEC plug, so I had to trim it down a little. No issues with the Schuko plug on the other end.

 

The Belden 83803 based cable is a pain to work with.

It's shielded (foil and tinned copper braid) and it's really inflexible but I hope I will be able to bend it into place once I have the amp it's intended for.


Edited by icebear - 7/7/14 at 8:35am
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