Fostex T50RP Incremental Mods and Measurements
Apr 21, 2015 at 1:06 PM Post #1,877 of 2,832
I used my fingernail to 'trace' the shape of the square before cutting, you could also use a pin or a pen. There's not much to gain from removing the felt, though, I'd leave it in place next time around.

+1
 
See the pictures towards the end of Post 1 in this thread.
 
May 1, 2015 at 1:38 PM Post #1,879 of 2,832
hey sorry to be jumping in with a random question. just curious if anyone had any other microphone compensation files for the WM61-A. BFM linked me to one from Claudio Negro. Just wondering what you guys who use compensation curves rely on.
 
also, anyone have any suggestions for removing the dip in the curve at 7khz from position interactions? it's showing up in all my measurements and just kinda curious if anyone had any tips on how to remove it. if not, totally chill since it seems pretty constant.
 
thank you!
 
Jun 27, 2015 at 1:44 PM Post #1,880 of 2,832
Hi Guys,
Just small update to my wave guides I posted while ago. I recently printed one of them in Shapeways in one of their fancy material "Frosted Ultra Detail". Man it was expensive... So the thing is, I will make resin casting of it as soon as I will receive ordered resin and silicone and find bit of time. After that I will send few pairs to BMF to check them out and do some measurements. If it will be worth it then I will make more casting and send it for small price (only material and posting price so shouldnt be much) to whoever would like to have it. I printed guide named G3. I know that BMF printed few other to try but it didn't go well on standard material so you might keep that in mind. Frosted Ultra Detail really surprised me:) but its damn expensive, everyone can print guides by themselves but that would be about 35-45$ for pair, that's why I will make those castings. Here are some pics of printed elements (sorry if pictures aren't the best you saw in your life:wink: )
 

 

 

 

 

 
Jun 27, 2015 at 4:01 PM Post #1,881 of 2,832
  Hi Guys,
Just small update to my wave guides I posted while ago. I recently printed one of them in Shapeways in one of their fancy material "Frosted Ultra Detail". Man it was expensive... So the thing is, I will make resin casting of it as soon as I will receive ordered resin and silicone and find bit of time. After that I will send few pairs to BMF to check them out and do some measurements. If it will be worth it then I will make more casting and send it for small price (only material and posting price so shouldnt be much) to whoever would like to have it. I printed guide named G3. I know that BMF printed few other to try but it didn't go well on standard material so you might keep that in mind. Frosted Ultra Detail really surprised me:) but its damn expensive, everyone can print guides by themselves but that would be about 35-45$ for pair, that's why I will make those castings. Here are some pics of printed elements (sorry if pictures aren't the best you saw in your life:wink: )
 

 
Pictures are fine. Look great!
 
I appreciate your hard work and very grateful you may be offering them to us. Curious to see BMF's testing results.
 
Jun 28, 2015 at 7:27 AM Post #1,883 of 2,832
Thanks Guys,
Yes I am seriously curious about results of BMF's measurements. Guides should also strengthen further driver body, but its already pretty solid. Most of all I hope it will improve back wave and distortions. Guys did anyone finally tried bee wax? it gave me much better results than blutak
 
Jun 28, 2015 at 6:31 PM Post #1,884 of 2,832
Yes, I look forward to testing and measuring ZGLISZCZ's new wave guides. As he mentioned, the wave guides I had 3D printed did not turn out as planned.
 
Very generous of Z* to share his work with we DIY'ers for Cost + Shipping!
 
Jul 16, 2015 at 12:37 AM Post #1,886 of 2,832
Hi guys, I didn't find how to start a thread, but I guess I'll get your attention here...
So I've modded my T40 RP that had been In a bottom of a box for like 10 years cause I tought they sounded liker cr. For all the questionning, Is it the same driver as the t50 or not? Can't answer that but I do know that they sound sound superb right now, with disclosure that I don't have anything Hi-end to directly compare them to.  All I can say is that they are defenitly sending my Allessandro MS1-i to the same box the t-40 was, It's just a non contest my T-40 beats them on every possible criteria and then some.   Other disclosure, I don't consider myself a audiophile but I do have trained ears, I've been a live sound audio engineer for 15 years (and the T-40 will definitly be used as a tool mainly, and to listen to music on my neighboor sleep hours...) I still like speakers.. 
So, what makes a t-40 a closed back headphone is a little plastic slab covering the vents, just glued there. So for a start I removed that and made the assumption, accurate or not, that I was starting with a T50 RP. 
I didn't know where to find dynamat or similar, so I just got creative and Used pieces of stick on wooly stuff (the kit to put under the leg of tables and chair) on the deeper parts of the cup, and stick on cork for all the places that was asking for more flexible thinner material, more precise scissor work. I'm adventurous like that. The  other thing I did was the treble dot thing but a little differently, I sandwiched the square piece of felt under two layer of micropore tape. I did also buy the transpore, but my gut feeling told me to use micropore, cause it feels very similar with the material that's already on the back of the driver, so It was adding more of the same and it felt more permeable. For bass ports,   I first blocked the top two vents with electrical tape. the bottom two were covered with micropore, again to mimic the T50, it look that it's what they did, and with cork I reduced the width of the port to about 3 mil. so two vents high, 3 mil wide. I tried some cotton filling, but didn't like it. Correct me if I'm wrong but there is more bass if you leave the cup empty.  Oh, and yes, perhaps the most important, I went for Brainwavs HM5 pads, very tight fit, hard to put on but very good seal, confortable, but too sweaty, and look a bit goofy cause very thick.
 
So there you have it. It sounds good, very good, but of course once you get there you want more... I was not only posting to share my succes story, I do have question.
 
Bass extension: I could use more, It already got much better, and again way better than my allesandro but that's not hard, this thing has no bass. Is it how much I'm gonna get? I have a pair of Koss Porta-pros, and that's one thing they do great. Deep, controlled bass. I'm thinking if koss can achieve that with such a small driver, and no sealing whatsoever, is there ways to get more from the orthodynamic one or that's it, that's all there is. Don't get me wrong, my Mod t40 sounds much better than my porta-pros, but I still love those little cans, to plug direct in my Ipod, go to the gym or for a run. weightless, cheap, ...and thick round bass in enjoyable quantity (and actually a quite nice sonic signature, it's not all about the bass). 
Before you call me a bass head...I don't think I am, but there's stuff down there. Did you guy's know that a Piano lowest note has a fundamental of 37.5 Hz? I'm listening to my t-40 right now, and for fun, I fade in my 12" sub woofer, 80 Hz crossover, and it's like...Yeah, there it is, now we're talking... So any cues how to achieve lower bass response is welcome.
 
Speaking about response. I'm curious, how do you guys measure that? I'll go for my ears before a graph any day, but obviously I use measure microphone, pink noise and some RTA every day, but headphones? If there is one thing that's obvious is that the way the pad seal around your ear have an impact on the frequency response, it's a major part of what you hear. So how to measure that? mini microphones stuck in the ears of a dummy head with headphones on? just curious, cause a headphone on a stand definitly don't sound like a headphone on your ears right?
 
Thanks for your input.
 
Jul 16, 2015 at 7:04 AM Post #1,887 of 2,832
Hi Pierre111,
 
You can be sure that bass is out there and can be really massive to the point when you wonder if its safe for your ears (you can feel how your tympanic membrane is moving like sub :D ) try various materials inside and don’t put too much or you will overdamp it and it will soak life from headphones. Try beewax ( damn why no one want to try bee wax! ), and various natural cotton and hardened wool (I used same stuff like you) you can punch holes inside wool. And finally seal everything with ketchup, ketchup batch is the secret way of the pro's, use spicy one (just joking, dont do that). The thing with the bass is it can flood on mids and then arghh... Make sure you sealed everything nicelly, also ear pads
 
Jul 16, 2015 at 10:42 AM Post #1,888 of 2,832

 

Bought some brainwavz HM5 angled pleather pads, managed to legitimately fit them on my T20RPs!!
 
Previously I was using ordinary brown HM5 pads. Saw these new angled ones and couldn't resist. I didn't want to deal with the mess of double sided tape and sticky residue, so I just stretched the flaps over packs of cards and left them for a couple of days to loosen up the flaps. It did the trick (not that it wasn't still incredibly difficult to get them on)
 
Jul 16, 2015 at 1:10 PM Post #1,889 of 2,832
Hi Zglizc 
Yeah I forgot. I did put on plasticine as suggested many time. So you're confident that it's worth the Hassle of removing all that and try Beewax instead? I have to say that my hopes are minimal that it would make a big difference, but what do I know? Thanks anyway. I also have to say that since the Brainwavz are extremely tights, they in fact already started to tear a bit by stretching them to put them on, so I want to minimize the trial and error since it already sounds good. The next time I open them up I'd like it to be the last. So what I'm after is a tried and true method to increase the bass if it exists. and maybe also changing the cable. Does anybody achieved better sound with better cables? Is this mod actually worth it?
 
Jul 16, 2015 at 5:36 PM Post #1,890 of 2,832
  Hi Zglizc 
Yeah I forgot. I did put on plasticine as suggested many time. So you're confident that it's worth the Hassle of removing all that and try Beewax instead? I have to say that my hopes are minimal that it would make a big difference, but what do I know? Thanks anyway. I also have to say that since the Brainwavz are extremely tights, they in fact already started to tear a bit by stretching them to put them on, so I want to minimize the trial and error since it already sounds good. The next time I open them up I'd like it to be the last. So what I'm after is a tried and true method to increase the bass if it exists. and maybe also changing the cable. Does anybody achieved better sound with better cables? Is this mod actually worth it?

Hi Pierre111,
I'm not sure how it will work for you. My experience is mostly with custom body, but I tried stuff like blutak and some sort of synthetic "plasticine kind of thing" and it never worked for me. I spoke with frank2908 and he has similar though about synthetic materials. They always messing some frequencies when usually natural materials are more complex in their structure and behave more gently and less selectively. But I cannot guaranty it will work on your config. You might consider sanding edges of baffle to reduce its size to do not stretch so much your earpads, many modders reported sound degradation on stretched earpads. Keep in mind that those headphones are really sensitive and are chameleons. It might happen that you will get to dead end and all changes will be somehow wrong. Then you might try something totally different, but its really worth extra time. Bee wax amount you will need will cost you few $. Try to figure out something to attach easier your pads. maybe some sort of acrylic frontend on baffle? (Im not sure if frontend is the right word) check BMF graphs. Im sure soon someone that tried Brainwavs will reply. Btw tiny changes inside headphones will affect sound more than fancy cable (but change it anyway or solder straight to drivers bypassing those terrible plug:) sorry for not helping much
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top