beyerdynamic T5p: Photos and first impressions.
Dec 10, 2014 at 12:08 PM Post #1,606 of 1,963
If you like quality bass, over quantity, and you get a good seal with the T5P, you will not be disappointed with its bass.  The whole frequency range is beautifully detailed and balanced . . . . 
 

 
Dec 10, 2014 at 12:36 PM Post #1,607 of 1,963

 
  Okay here are my freshly re-cabled, new-to-me T5P, rescued from the `JUNK` bin of my local headfi shop here in Tokyo.  Cable and 2.5 jack from Oyaide.  New AKT5P E.Q. on the AK120ii.  Sounds like bliss to me . .
 

 
 
cool cool
how much did recabling cost you ?
could you make a photo of earpads from above ?
 
i had same experience with my t5ps, had 4 pairs... and leather and earpads foam filing was different on each pair , insane  =)

 
Dec 10, 2014 at 12:48 PM Post #1,609 of 1,963
I'll check the fit tomorrow.
Thanks for the idea.

 
i had interesting experience with t5p burn in
i found out that this headphones need lots of burn in to Blossom.
 
sound will be Bright and fatigue then mellow and lifeless , edge of details will disapear , then bass will fill in, after 500 hours sound will be fine. Detailed dynamic, midrange will be great and juicy and bass will be tight articulated and will go very low.
 
Your ears will get acostumised to the sound too.
 
First of all you will notice the separetion  between instruments will become more clear. But it takes lot of burn in to see how great separetion is on t5p
Highs and lows will change, less Bright , less boomy, and midrange will Blossom
 
i got 500 hours on mine , and i still hear Changes.
Dramatic Changes come after 50 hours and stop after 300
 
Make sure you burn in with different type of Music and with different volume levels....
Leave your t5p playing over nights ...
 
Dec 10, 2014 at 1:13 PM Post #1,610 of 1,963
  Okay here are my freshly re-cabled, new-to-me T5P, rescued from the `JUNK` bin of my local headfi shop here in Tokyo.  Cable and 2.5 jack from Oyaide.  New AKT5P E.Q. on the AK120ii.  Sounds like bliss to me . .  
 
 

 
So pretty.  I've been thinking about recabling my T5p just so I don't have to baby the stock Rean-Neutrik connector.
 
Dec 10, 2014 at 2:12 PM Post #1,611 of 1,963
  I'd echo previous comments that in terms of quantity, T5p lack a little bit in mid bass but are adequate in sub bass. Quality wise it's as clear and clean and deep as I've heard.  I think this bass tonality makes them very enjoyable with electronic music. In fact I find them play Infected Mushrooms a bit better than my T1s. But again, there are many different styles in electronic, and people approach them in different manners. I can easily imagine some people who just like a great amount of thumping bass. 

 
How is the midd bass compared to DT770?
 
 
  If you like quality bass, over quantity, and you get a good seal with the T5P, you will not be disappointed with its bass.  The whole frequency range is beautifully detailed and balanced . . . . 
 


What do you mean with a good seal? Sorry my english is not the best.
 
Dec 10, 2014 at 4:07 PM Post #1,612 of 1,963
I have never heard the DT770s... so sorry cannot comment on that. DT770s seem also to have quite a few variations in impedance. 
I can say though based on memory, that both T1's and T5p's have a bit less bass quantity than DT990 600ohm. Quality is at least on the same level, if not higher. 
 
Dec 10, 2014 at 8:22 PM Post #1,613 of 1,963
  1. Arttt
See pics below.  I bought the cable and 2.5 plug at an Oyaide cable-supply shop - 600¥ for cable and 350¥ for plug: about us$8.  A local shop did the soldering for 5000¥ , so all-in the recable cost about us$50.  
 
 
  1. EDMaddict
`Seal` means how well the pads close around the ears, block outside sound from entering the cups and the ear.  This T5p seals better than any other I`ve tried, and I have tried many.   Putting these on is A LOT like noise-cancelling headphones.  
 

 

 
Dec 10, 2014 at 10:25 PM Post #1,614 of 1,963
   
So pretty.  I've been thinking about recabling my T5p just so I don't have to baby the stock Rean-Neutrik connector.


Did you know there are (at least) two connector versions out there?  The older one is a shorter, metal connector; the more recent is a slightly longer, plastic connector.  The recent plastic connector is supposed to be Beyer`s solution to the cable issues.  Mine was the old version and it certainly had cable issues: not only was the connector/soldering bad, but one driver`s connection was also loose, cutting in/out.  The shop that did my recabling first installed the 2.5 balanced connector on the stock cable, and fixed the loose driver connection. But within a few minutes of listening, the left channel was cutting in and out again, though the soldering was actually okay at both ends.  It was like the wire was brittle somewhere along its length and breaking down...    
 
If I ever buy another one of these, even new, the first thing I will do is completely re-cable them.  They are definitely worth it. 
 
Dec 11, 2014 at 12:27 AM Post #1,615 of 1,963
 
Did you know there are (at least) two connector versions out there?  The older one is a shorter, metal connector; the more recent is a slightly longer, plastic connector.  The recent plastic connector is supposed to be Beyer`s solution to the cable issues.  Mine was the old version and it certainly had cable issues: not only was the connector/soldering bad, but one driver`s connection was also loose, cutting in/out.  The shop that did my recabling first installed the 2.5 balanced connector on the stock cable, and fixed the loose driver connection. But within a few minutes of listening, the left channel was cutting in and out again, though the soldering was actually okay at both ends.  It was like the wire was brittle somewhere along its length and breaking down...    
 
If I ever buy another one of these, even new, the first thing I will do is completely re-cable them.  They are definitely worth it. 

Yeah, I have the short metal connector, prior to my generation they used the L-shaped Neutrik connector.  I think the earliest L-Shaped one had the most issues.
 
You're edging me closer to a recable.. hehe.
 
Dec 11, 2014 at 1:07 AM Post #1,616 of 1,963
Recabling for functionality, rather than faith, is actually quite cheap, even if you pay someone to do it.  
 
Dec 11, 2014 at 7:20 AM Post #1,617 of 1,963
In Europe recabling isn't cheap , it will be half the price of a headphone, like 500$

I saw earpads from pics above, you are lucky! It's old version with soft pads filed with memory foam, it reshapes slowly and there for has great seal...
New versions got stiff foam that is not at all soft, it doesn't seal good and moves on your head over ear , slides down... You have to correct position of headphones on your head once in a while. Leather on your t5p is thick like it was on my first pair, new ones got thin slippery leather, it doesn't get wet but it doesn't sit on ears tight...

I'm glad you got a good pair of t5p man!!!
 
Dec 11, 2014 at 9:40 AM Post #1,618 of 1,963
In Europe recabling isn't cheap , it will be half the price of a headphone, like 500$

I saw earpads from pics above, you are lucky! It's old version with soft pads filed with memory foam, it reshapes slowly and there for has great seal...
New versions got stiff foam that is not at all soft, it doesn't seal good and moves on your head over ear , slides down... You have to correct position of headphones on your head once in a while. Leather on your t5p is thick like it was on my first pair, new ones got thin slippery leather, it doesn't get wet but it doesn't sit on ears tight...

I'm glad you got a good pair of t5p man!!!


Thanks for the information, and the kind words, Arttt.  That explains why some of the used T5ps I tried here had that slippery, stiff leather.  I`m glad mine is the old version...   
 
My comment above about recabling was referring to simple soldering jobs being cheap - functionality.  If someone hopes to actually improve the sound by changing the cable, using different metals, weaving the wire, coating the wire, insulating the wires, etc, then they usually have to pay big money, like 200-500 $  And they have to have faith that it actually works.  
 
I`m sure you can find some craftsman in Europe to do the soldering for a few euros, no ? 
 
d
 
Dec 11, 2014 at 8:08 PM Post #1,620 of 1,963
In Sweden you can't get such prices, man )


Bummer.  I want to go even cheaper and start doing it myself.  I have a soldering iron, but I`m just damned lazy.  Yesterday I sold my HD800 cable, and so need a new one, and I think this is a good chance for me to finally learn to cable myself.  That Oyaide cable shop I was in a couple of days ago even has a bin of HD800 connectors, and every other kind of connector, wire, etc.  
 
I like aftermarket cables, but really, the prices of some of them are just insane. . . .  
 

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