scompton
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Is that German? If so, and I remember how much a mark was worth, they went for around $35.
Orthodynamic Roundup
- Thread starter wualta
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DefectiveAudioComponent
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Let's also enjoy a review of the YH-1000!
The YH-100 cost about as much as five ATH-1. Better sound can be had for the same money, but a great headphone, the review says. Excellent bass, but treble is not as good as the similarly priced Unipolar 2000 (but still good). They are also quite heavy. (so, not really a rave review for this ortho king)
The YH-100 cost about as much as five ATH-1. Better sound can be had for the same money, but a great headphone, the review says. Excellent bass, but treble is not as good as the similarly priced Unipolar 2000 (but still good). They are also quite heavy. (so, not really a rave review for this ortho king)
DefectiveAudioComponent
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Quote:
No, it's Swedish. It's very similar to German.
| Originally Posted by scompton /img/forum/go_quote.gif Is that German? If so, and I remember how much a mark was worth, they went for around $35. |
No, it's Swedish. It's very similar to German.
krmathis
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Quote:
Swedish, with the price of SEK 180. Which with todays exchange rate equals $23
| Originally Posted by scompton /img/forum/go_quote.gif Is that German? If so, and I remember how much a mark was worth, they went for around $35. |
Swedish, with the price of SEK 180. Which with todays exchange rate equals $23
wualta
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DAC, do you live in Swedeland?
DefectiveAudioComponent
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Strange duplicate entry. Deleted.
DefectiveAudioComponent
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Quote:
Yes. I wasn't looking for known orthos, but for OEM orthos. So far, no 100% confirmation of any match and no really exciting look-alikes.
Now, a review of the U70 with a frequency graph that looks like they made it themselves.
They like the U70, although it is a bit pricey. They really like the bass, but think it's a bit weak and needs some EQ to be brought up to the same level as a Koss they reviewed at the same time. The U70 appears to be closed, but acutally has vents, that act as a kind of bass reflex opening (they speculate).
| Originally Posted by wualta /img/forum/go_quote.gif DAC, do you live in Swedeland? |
Yes. I wasn't looking for known orthos, but for OEM orthos. So far, no 100% confirmation of any match and no really exciting look-alikes.
Now, a review of the U70 with a frequency graph that looks like they made it themselves.
They like the U70, although it is a bit pricey. They really like the bass, but think it's a bit weak and needs some EQ to be brought up to the same level as a Koss they reviewed at the same time. The U70 appears to be closed, but acutally has vents, that act as a kind of bass reflex opening (they speculate).
DefectiveAudioComponent
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Some unexciting statistics for the YH-100 and PMB 100.
bjarnetv
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thanks for the pics DAC!
seems they prefered the unipolar to the stock yh1000, thats intriguing; anyone tried one of those (im sure spritzer has owned one
)
is it possible to get some closer pics of the U70 text, so that those of us who understands swedish can read the entire thing?
seems they prefered the unipolar to the stock yh1000, thats intriguing; anyone tried one of those (im sure spritzer has owned one
is it possible to get some closer pics of the U70 text, so that those of us who understands swedish can read the entire thing?
Faust2D
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Quote:
Unipolar are universally know to be crap.
| Originally Posted by bjarnetv /img/forum/go_quote.gif thanks for the pics DAC! seems they prefered the unipolar to the stock yh1000, thats intriguing; anyone tried one of those (im sure spritzer has owned one
is it possible to get some closer pics of the U70 text, so that those of us who understands swedish can read the entire thing? |
Unipolar are universally know to be crap.
DefectiveAudioComponent
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Quote:
Sure! Not a perfect shot, but not too many characters are lost on the edge so it is still possible to read it. For you who don't want to read the text, the frequency graph is also larger and easier to view on the larger sized image.
| Originally Posted by bjarnetv /img/forum/go_quote.gif is it possible to get some closer pics of the U70 text, so that those of us who understands swedish can read the entire thing? |
Sure! Not a perfect shot, but not too many characters are lost on the edge so it is still possible to read it. For you who don't want to read the text, the frequency graph is also larger and easier to view on the larger sized image.
spritzer
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Nope, never found a good example to buy. They were always rumored to be very bright so that's something to consider.
| Originally Posted by bjarnetv /img/forum/go_quote.gif seems they prefered the unipolar to the stock yh1000, thats intriguing; anyone tried one of those (im sure spritzer has owned one
|
Nope, never found a good example to buy. They were always rumored to be very bright so that's something to consider.
yoginasser
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I encourage you to reconsider Smeggy,it will be well worth your time.
| Originally Posted by smeggy /img/forum/go_quote.gif Sadly not much chance. However, I'm extremely interested to know what you did. It seems like you may have hit gold by your enthusiasm 
|
I encourage you to reconsider Smeggy,it will be well worth your time.
mypasswordis
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I finally opened up my Fostex T50RPv2. Only one of the sticky rectangles used to hold the pads in place was actually sticky. Some of the little rubbers on the support pillars were not very well placed. Also, the vents are only open in the bottom as there's a piece of plastic blocking the top. And the bottom vents have a piece of factory fabric (felt?) over them. Kind of weird. Also, the cup volume is indeed increased from the previous generation.
I won't get to modding them until later but I think I will try removing the stock white damping, since it's much easier to remove (though probably with ripping) than that of my T40. Should I try making it more open? For instance re-cutting out the vents on the top. Obviously Fostex chose to cover them up for some reason.
I won't get to modding them until later but I think I will try removing the stock white damping, since it's much easier to remove (though probably with ripping) than that of my T40. Should I try making it more open? For instance re-cutting out the vents on the top. Obviously Fostex chose to cover them up for some reason.
wualta
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It's a vented-closed design, not even close to a true open-back design. The best you can do is absorb backwaves so they don't bounce around in there with nothing to do.
As I recall, the fabric over the teeny vent is thin nonwoven, the same stuff that's covering the driver on the baffle so your ear can't see it. Don't see any reason not to open the other [blocked] vents with a dremel type tool, but I don't expect much audible improvement. Line the interior with craft felt-- that'll properly damp the vent(s) and cut down on reflections.
You might want to seal the cup halves where they join. There's also an anti-fart "port", just like the one Stax inflicted on the 007. You could try plugging that.
As I recall, the fabric over the teeny vent is thin nonwoven, the same stuff that's covering the driver on the baffle so your ear can't see it. Don't see any reason not to open the other [blocked] vents with a dremel type tool, but I don't expect much audible improvement. Line the interior with craft felt-- that'll properly damp the vent(s) and cut down on reflections.
You might want to seal the cup halves where they join. There's also an anti-fart "port", just like the one Stax inflicted on the 007. You could try plugging that.
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