[rb2013]

I have had a Gustard U12 for nearly a year and have been happy with its audio credentials. Lately I have noticed a hum - audible from a few inches to a few feet depending on ordinary ambient noise - which is present whenever an electrically live USB device is attached - this includes a battery powered tablet PC and, so, I rule out ground loop(s). The hum is not present when the Gustard is powered (mains) but no USB device is attached. I would like to know: 1) whether this is normal for this unit - can other owners advise? - and, since I suspect not; 2) whether it is something simple that can be fixed (easily enough hopefully by me).

I have contacted the ebay Seller (along1986090) who is unresponsive - even to requests for contact info for the manufacturer. Can I claim under warranty?

A replacement may be in the offing. I don't have much of a budget at the moment since I have bought other stuff (including a second power amp and a cartridge) very recently. This thread is enormously helpful. I am looking for the right DDC only at this time since I don't have the funds for power supplies etc. Aside from USB input it must have coax out - that is about the only absolute requirement. I don't fancy USB-powered. The SU-1 (encased version of the F-1 with added LPS) seems to fit the bill - even though I will have to find extra cash for it. I will use a Regen before it and an old but erstwhile state-of-the-art DAC after it (so upsampling only to 88.2 khz at most). My system needs taming rather than brightening.

TIA for all constructive remarks.

I bet it's the cheaper transformer the Gustard uses. I have a really nice Breeze DU-U8 with the upgraded Talema transformer. I also upgraded the RCA spdif to a totl WBT NexGen Cu. You can buy it if you want to replace the Gustard. Or anyone else. It's a major step up from the Gustard. PM me.

Need to raise funds for a Mutec to use a spdif reclocker.

 

[mourip]

  I have a question to the D16 users. Did you tray to e.g. send a 96kHz signal, upsample it in the unit up to 192kHz and than feed the DAC? Have you heard any benifits of doing so?  I understand the D16 can upsample the signal up to 192kHz.

 
You can only choose one bit rate at a time for the D16 and need to do so manually. If you have any 192k material and want to avoid the trouble of changing the bit rate manually then you might want to consider setting your player to upsample everything to 192k. In this way the D16 will play anything at least up to 192K.
 
I set JRMC to upsample everything to 192K and set the D16 to the same and I am not a fan of upsampling. The results are much better than I could have possibly imagined.
 
I did need to tweak some of the latency setting to get it to work and I have the PC ethernet connected directly to the first D16 port and the second D16 port connected to my LAN so that I can remote the PC. You can set the D16 ethernet ports to either function as a switch or to provide redundancy to your PC/DAW. I believe that the default is the switch behavior so that allows you to get to your LAN from your PC. 
 
Hope I got this right ...but either way it sound remarkable. It provides the music with a correctness that just was not there before. My theory is that for some reason it help maintain the original phase relationships better than USB.
 
Please do not ask me to prove that

 

[johnjen]

When my RN3 is fully functional and settled in, I figure I'll try setting the output from Jriver to a whole bunch of different sample rates just to see what I notice.
 
I love experimenting by fussing with the knobs and buttons, and of course hardware tweaks…
 
Oh, does anyone know what the fuse in the RN3 is?
I can see it’s a 5mm size fuse but the value and type (slow/fast blow) would be helpful…
And if no one knows and/or doesn't feel like investigating, that's ok, I'll know by the end of this week…

 
JJ

 

[rb2013]

When my RN3 is fully functional and settled in, I figure I'll try setting the output from Jriver to a whole bunch of different sample rates just to see what I notice.

I love experimenting by fussing with the knobs and buttons, and of course hardware tweaks…

Oh, does anyone know what the fuse in the RN3 is?

I can see it’s a 5mm size fuse but the value and type (slow/fast blow) would be helpful…
And if no one knows and/or doesn't feel like investigating, that's ok, I'll know by the end of this week… :atsmile:

JJ

Welcome aboard! I don't know on the fuse, but will get a SR Tesla to replace it.

Have a Mutec MC-3 USB coming soon, to reclock the spdif, that made a real difference when I had a loaner a while ago.

This AOIP is just blowing me away in SQ, at least the RN3 is.

Cheers!

PS Running everything at 192k, working flawlessly. 24/7 now for a week straight.

 

[johnjen]

Thanks!
 
Yeah I'm also a fan of the SR Tesla fuses myself.
I figure its probably a 0.25amp fuse or somewhere in this range.
 
And once I get a handful of different digital cables gathered together (AES, toslink optical, SPDIF) and I'm ready to compare them, that's when the fun begins.
 
And once a digital format is declared the 'winner', then I'll start drilling down to see which cables among that group are 'keepers'.
But thus far your recommendation of that Audio Sensibility Statement silver cable sure pushes the right buttons so far… 

 
As for the giant step up in SQ that this digital signal format is providing, my spidey sense has been ringing off the hook since I first heard about it.
And ever since my order went in, the tingling in my head won't stop enticing me, kinda like what those sirens were doing before I took the plunge, only now its incessant.
And the last time my spidey sense started clanging, the Jggy was due to be released.
 
I figure this unfolding AOIP is but a necessary prelude to really uncorking the Jggy…

 
Interesting times in Audio, indeed…
 
JJ

 

[Muziqboy]

Fuse inside the RN3 is a T2A250V not sure if a slow or fast blow but it has a thick spring like coil.
Just replaced mine with a Audio Horizons Platinum Reference that I have lying around.

 

[jabbr]

Fuse inside the RN3 is a T2A250V not sure if a slow or fast blow but it has a thick spring like coil.
Just replaced mine with a Audio Horizons Platinum Reference that I have lying around.

A T fuse is a slow fuse.

See here for the meaning of fuse markings: https://www.swe-check.com.au/pages/learn_fuse_markings.php

Cheers

 

[johnjen]

Excellent, kewl!
 
I'm gunna snag that page, very handy.
 
But that means it’s a 2 amp fuse for sure.
 
That's mighty big for a 30VA rated device.
 
JJ

 

[johnjen]

I just ran across this page describing the RedNet design decisions with regard to sound quality and how they implemented them in hardware.
https://global.focusrite.com/rednet/the-sound-of-rednet
 
Its fully balanced all the way thru and thru.
Interesting…
 
JJ

 

[Muziqboy]

  I just ran across this page describing the RedNet design decisions with regard to sound quality and how they implemented them in hardware.
https://global.focusrite.com/rednet/the-sound-of-rednet
 
Its fully balanced all the way thru and thru.
Interesting…
 
JJ

 
So that explains the very high degree of transparency that I am hearing with the RedNet 3.
Very interesting indeed. A very well designed and built device.

 

[Acrobat77]

Well of course the 'fully balanced design' is not applicable to the Rednet 3 since it's 100% digital, there's no A/D or D/A conversions performed in it. The only part of that article applicable is the part about clocking.

 

[Lord Raven]

Hi guys, I am new to this thread, seeking your guidance
 
I was looking into buying Intona Isolator and also considered Uptone Regen, and finally came across this unit. Can anyone comment which one does the best job among these three? If anyone has tried all of these at some point?
 
Thanks
LR

 

[rb2013]

  Thanks!
 
Yeah I'm also a fan of the SR Tesla fuses myself.
I figure its probably a 0.25amp fuse or somewhere in this range.
 
And once I get a handful of different digital cables gathered together (AES, toslink optical, SPDIF) and I'm ready to compare them, that's when the fun begins.
 
And once a digital format is declared the 'winner', then I'll start drilling down to see which cables among that group are 'keepers'.
But thus far your recommendation of that Audio Sensibility Statement silver cable sure pushes the right buttons so far… 

 
As for the giant step up in SQ that this digital signal format is providing, my spidey sense has been ringing off the hook since I first heard about it.
And ever since my order went in, the tingling in my head won't stop enticing me, kinda like what those sirens were doing before I took the plunge, only now its incessant.
And the last time my spidey sense started clanging, the Jggy was due to be released.
 
I figure this unfolding AOIP is but a necessary prelude to really uncorking the Jggy…

 
Interesting times in Audio, indeed…
 
JJ

If you get the AS Silver Statement be sure ot order the 1.5M - as it's reported to be the optimal length for a spdif digital cable.  That length minimizes back wave reflections.
 
I'm going to order a Blue Jeans 1.5M Spdif for between the RN3 and the Mutec 3 USB -then the AS Statement from the Mutec to my DAC.
 
So you have a Yggie?

 

[rb2013]

  I just ran across this page describing the RedNet design decisions with regard to sound quality and how they implemented them in hardware.
https://global.focusrite.com/rednet/the-sound-of-rednet
 
Its fully balanced all the way thru and thru.
Interesting…
 
JJ

Nice!

 

[rb2013]

  Hi guys, I am new to this thread, seeking your guidance
 
I was looking into buying Intona Isolator and also considered Uptone Regen, and finally came across this unit. Can anyone comment which one does the best job among these three? If anyone has tried all of these at some point?
 
Thanks
LR

Regen works well with the F-1.  As it reclocks, and have ultra low noise regulators - it's fed from an ext power supply.
 
The intona - I have not had.