[dpastern]

  In my experience, HD540 sounds better than HD600. More realistic dynamics amd tonality IMO. And the LCD-2 is a joke compared to HD540... I was very disappointed with the LCD-2 when I held it in my hands and had a listen to it straight after hearing my HD540II from the same source. Pretty much the highlight of everything that is wrong with the hi-fi industry...
 
Reference (I), Reference II and Reference Gold share the shame physical dimensions and fixtures, simply featuring some cosmetic changes. All Ref IIs are 300 Ohms whilst Ref I and Ref Gold both have 300 Ohm and 600 Ohm variants.
 
And if you just want a pair of metal rings on their own, I should be able to help with that as I think I have a couple of spare pairs. I will have to check but pretty sure I have more ring pairs than driver pairs.

 
The LCD2s aren't bad headphones imho, they just don't seem to sound as good as the HD540s.  There's not a huge difference, but the differences are noticeable and I do prefer the Sennheiser units.  
 
I presume that I have to remove the cups to see what version I have with my ref golds, as I don't remember seeing any stamping/marking of impedance on the unit itself.  Which then brings me to my next question - how to replace the pads.  I'm not sure which type of pads my unit came with either - I'll try and post some piccies.
 
Thanks!
 
Dave

 

[o0CosmoMemory0o]

There should be a code marked into the inside surface of the black plastic driver assembly. Code would be something like KK300 or IL600 depending on impedance.
 
I know HD560 velour pads can be adapted to fit the HD540 and I have several pairs of binding rings needed for them to clip in. Haven't yet found a pad better than a re-foamed original velour though.

 

[dpastern]

  There should be a code marked into the inside surface of the black plastic driver assembly. Code would be something like KK300 or IL600 depending on impedance.
 
I know HD560 velour pads can be adapted to fit the HD540 and I have several pairs of binding rings needed for them to clip in. Haven't yet found a pad better than a re-foamed original velour though.

 
How do I remove the pads?  I'm worried I'll break my hd540s and won't be able to use them again!  
 
Here is a picture of my hd540 (Left pad), showing wear - pad compression and the inner foam appears to be gone, and the pads stitching are coming undone and peeling...
 

 
Dave

 

[o0CosmoMemory0o]

You have to pull outwards carefully on the pad to begin to unclip it. There are several fixture points around the circle. Hold as much area as possible when you pull on it, to minimize the stress the material is put under. Thin foam discs or round cloth can be had on ebay. I have replacement foam if you wish to remove the old pad foam, clean the skin, put in my foam and stitch up the pad with black thread. Sennheiser HD250II cable from Sennheiser spares should fit the Reference Gold if you ever find you need a replacement copper cable (although it won't have a fancy gold plug).

 

[dpastern]

  You have to pull outwards carefully on the pad to begin to unclip it. There are several fixture points around the circle. Hold as much area as possible when you pull on it, to minimize the stress the material is put under. Thin foam discs or round cloth can be had on ebay. I have replacement foam if you wish to remove the old pad foam, clean the skin, put in my foam and stitch up the pad with black thread. Sennheiser HD250II cable from Sennheiser spares should fit the Reference Gold if you ever find you need a replacement copper cable (although it won't have a fancy gold plug).

 
Thanks!  I presume that the pads/cloth are then push fit back on?  If I buy:
 
http://www.thomann.de/gb/sennheiser_hd_540_gold_schaumnetzscheibe.htm
 
and
 
http://www.thomann.de/gb/sennheiser_hd250_linear_ii_ohrpolster.htm
 
I presume that I don't need to do any stitching?  I haven't stitched since '82 at school lol and I suck at it.  
 
I presume that the flat foam sits underneath the pad, i.e. covering the White section in my piccie...
 
i.e. drive unit ==> foam ==> pad
 
Just trying to get a conceptual understanding of things before attempting anything.  Also, if I have read right, the above linked pads will make the bass a bit more pronounced and make the vocals a bit more "distant", correct?
 
Dave

 

[o0CosmoMemory0o]

You can do what you have suggested, yes. I feel though that the HD250 pleather pads significantly reduce the stereo imaging and spatial quality of the HD540 when compared with using the HD540II velour pads or even the Reference I original pads. If it's the only realistic way forward for you though, a pleather pad HD540 is better than none at all.

 

[dpastern]

Well, I see no other real options do I?  
 
PS I've figured out why my ears are itching when wearing the HD540s - I'm positive that there's dust mites in the pads.  I've just had a terrible night itching and major allergy flare up (I'd been lying down on my bed with the headphones on the night before)

 

[dpastern]

   
haha, TDA1541, the mythical Philips DAC from the '80 (used by Marantz),
 
if you check my profile:
SOURCE: Philips CD650 CD player (TDA1541 DAC)
 
the first dual 16 bits DAC if i'm not wrong, and still considered as one of the most musical converter.
at that time, "the very first dual 16 bit dac" was the ultimate marketing argument, and that's why i probably bought it (around $900?), without really understanding how digital music worked, oh well...
 
oh, and i like both the modded Q701 and the regular Q701 (for different reasons). great headphones.

 
still the best DAC imho (TDA1541) single bit DAC from Philips.  I have an old DPA (formerly Deltec) dac that uses one with a SAA7350 too.  

 

[MrPhilicorda]

Interesting reading this thread! I have a question for you guys: How can you tell whether the 540 Ref.1 are 300 or 600 ohm?
 
I've seen pictures where some have "300 ohm" stamped on the exterior of the earcup, just above the point where the headband attaches to the earcups. I've seen other pictures of Ref.1 where this area is blank. Does that mean every Ref.1 with no markings on the outside are 600 ohm?
 
I'm looking to buy a pair but quite often impedance is not known by the seller so it would be a great if this can be determined simply by visual inspection.

 

[Bostonears]

  Interesting reading this thread! I have a question for you guys: How can you tell whether the 540 Ref.1 are 300 or 600 ohm?
 
I've seen pictures where some have "300 ohm" stamped on the exterior of the earcup, just above the point where the headband attaches to the earcups. I've seen other pictures of Ref.1 where this area is blank. Does that mean every Ref.1 with no markings on the outside are 600 ohm?
 
I'm looking to buy a pair but quite often impedance is not known by the seller so it would be a great if this can be determined simply by visual inspection.

If you remove the earpads and foam, the ohm value is stamped inside on the plastic rim of the driver:

 

[MrPhilicorda]

 
If you remove the earpads and foam, the ohm value is stamped inside on the plastic rim of the driver:

 
Thanks for your reply. I wonder if there is a general rule of thumb that the ones with impedance stamped on the outside are always 300 ohm, and the ones with the value stamped behind the earpads are always 600 ohm (can't really determine from your picture if it's 300 or 600).
 
Since I'm looking to buy through an online auction site I'm thinking it might too much to ask from the seller to dismantle the headphones to find out, and if he or she do not speak English it would be hard to explain anyway. What I'm getting at is if there is a way to find out the impedance by just looking at pictures of the exterior (provided such pictures are available). 

 

[SteveHiFi]

I wonder if there is a general rule of thumb..

I think you're right, my HD540 has nothing stamped on the outside of the earcup, and is 600 ohms. In the end I used a multimeter as a non-destructive means of confirming it - perhaps your seller can do this more simply if they have the equipment.

 

[MrPhilicorda]

  I think you're right, my HD540 has nothing stamped on the outside of the earcup, and is 600 ohms. In the end I used a multimeter as a non-destructive means of confirming it - perhaps your seller can do this more simply if they have the equipment.

Thanks. I think I'll just stay away from the non-stamped headphones then since I want the 300 ohm version. For now at least, unless someone confirms there is no such rule. My experience is that sellers rarely make an effort to answer your quieries if it means they need to leave the comfort of their chair....

 

[Oricaedian]

Wish I would have gotten into headphones a few years back. These look great!

 

[o0CosmoMemory0o]

They look great, feel great and sound great. I feel that the HD540 is one of the best sounding conventional headphones at any price.