[fatman711]

http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Pr...roduct=6402055


I want to make a cmoy amp and the instructions say pencil soldering iron. Will this work?

thanks

 

[ericj]

It will.

However, if you're strictly in the under-$20 range, I recommend this one instead:

http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/phcovatesoir.html

The conical tip will make your life much easier, plus the tips are replaceable (and there are different shapes available), and the build quality is better.

Plus it's variable between 16w and 30w instead of just switched.

The website doesn't say so, but it's a Xytronic 258. I have one as my beater / traveling / emergency backup iron.

 

[derevaun]

You might want to check out Tangent's excellent video tutorials, especially the first one on equipment. The part that sticks out for me is when he refers to a particular type of iron (found at Radio Shack or The Source) as "a heated nail" and to avoid it. The iron pictured in your link looks like that type of iron.

I've gotten pretty good use from Radio Shack's 15 watt iron. It's got a small tip that is close to its heat source. I mount a new tip frequently. I don't see it on the site, but they appear to have the tips for it.

But IMHO you're better off finding an iron that looks like the (cheap) one Tangent recommends in the video tutorial. Good luck!

 

[ericj]

I don't recommend a 15-watt iron to anybody for any purpose. Except burning components and fingers and the odd solder pad.

They just don't get hot enough, and can't dump heat fast enough.

Occasionally you end up doing work that requires a relatively cool iron, but most of the time you're better off with more than 20 watts.

 

[fatman711]

is 30 watts too much? what if I just bought a 30 w iron instead of a 15-30watter.

Also, what solder should I use?
\
Thanks

 

[ericj]

For electronics work, if it's not a temperature regulated iron, 23 to 30 watts is a good range. More than 30 could start to be a problem. At 40 watts you start accidentally lifting traces off the board.

The power supply of my Weller WTCPN is 75 watts, iirc, which is enough to make the iron glow red - but that only happens when the temperature regulation fails.

 

[mono]

Wattage depends on range of parts being soldered, and the tip used (tiny tip means higher wattage needed per same jobs).

Generally for a one-size-fits-all iron, a very good quality iron might allow using 20W but on average a 25-30W is typical for our purposes... just don't let the 30W sit on any delicate parts too long and roast 'em.

As for solder, the most appropriate for "most" of the work we'd be doing is rosin core, mildly activated, 0.025 or 0.031 size. For example Kester #285.

 

[fatman711]

http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Pr...roduct=6400013

this work?

 

[mono]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatman711 /img/forum/go_quote.gif http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/Pr...roduct=6400013 this work?

1) YOu're going to pay a premium at thesource. "IF" you won't ever build anything else, maybe it won't matter you get less for the $, but if you are building so little, pick up a $2(?) pack at Ratshack. This is a fairly small amount of solder to get for ~$10.

2) The 2% silver isn't necessarily desirable, it will be a little harder to solder and the main benefit is if your are soldering silver-plated cabling.

3) Silver solder tends to need more aggressive flux, which eats up iron tips faster, as does the hotter running temp to use it. IF you need silver bearing solder, these detractions are accepted as necessary, but if you don't, it's only a negative aspect.