[jerb]

Hey, Xmas is coming up and its time to beg for some new tools

I'm doing more Soldering than I ever imagined so I decided to ask for a new Iron.

Looking through the forum I find that the Hakko 936 on the surface looks pretty solid. Some of the Techs at a local company had heard of it but all seemed to mumble off reasons they didn't like it.

http://www.kiesub.com/hakko936.htm

The next option was a Weller wtcpt; this is what the techs recommended. They said they have had these things going for years now and refuse to use anything else. Not to steep at ~130 but I don’t like them not having a temp control. The techs said if I get the 700 F tip I won’t need anything else.

http://www.all-spec.com/cgi-bin/fccg...w=Weller+WTCPT

The last option was a metcal. This Stand is $$$ at almost double the price of the hakko, I could beg if it’s worth it though. Techs admitted that metcal's were nice but hadn't had any experience with this particular one. It’s more expensive than the others and doesn’t seem to have any of the features of the others. It also mentions something about high temps for lead free solder; I won’t be using any of that so I think this iron may not work for me. I'll listen you what everyone/anyone has to say though

http://www.wassco.com/mepssosy.html

Also if anyone can recommend a good DMM, right now I’m using a $10 Home depot one and it blows pretty bad. To take resistance or voltage I kind of have to guess as it will sit there and flash numbers over and over until I remove the leads. (ex it will say 5, then 7, then 9, then 3 etc when its really a steady 6 volts) it also gives me odd readings such as a mysterious 48mA present in the air (leads not touching anything) etc. Id like to spend less than 35 but I'm open to most suggestions (I don’t think I can justify a $170 FLUKE)

 

[bg4533]

I believe the Metcal uses tips to control temperature. Each tip is calibrated to a specific temperature. You can just ignore the part about lead-free if you want. They emphasize it since the tips allow more accurate temperatures than an uncalibrated iron.

I have a Hakko 936 and am very happy with it. I haven't used any of the higher end irons, but I see nothing wrong or lacking with the Hakko. I really like the dial temp adjustment. Exact temperature is not important to me.

As for multimeters I have and am happy with my Protek 608. It is solid and has some features similarly priced Flukes lack. Many people here have this meter and are happy with it. You lose the Fluke name and support (calibration, maybe warranty) if that is important to you.

 

[Francis_Vaughan]

There are a lot of options really.

Personally I will never buy another Weller. The internal construction quality of the last one was depressingly awful. But they have for a very long time dominated some areas.

There are quite a few re-branded Taiwanese irons. Here in Oz the Micron brand is well liked. Although I have no experience with them. And as to what they might be called in other markets, I have no idea.

The Metcal irons (they are changing back to be branded OK Instruments sometime) are really well made. The new range use a very high tech temperature control based upon RF heating of a metal slug and the Currie point of plating of the slug. They claim ridiculously tight control. But they really are pricey. I have an old OK Instruments SA-400 which is really very nice - and uses the older ceramic heater design. Experience with it has been very good. I'm sad they don't make them anymore.

However it seems that Goot - another Japanese company - is essentially making identical units. When I needed a new tip, the Goot tips fitted perfectly. Whilst not identical in design, the Goot irons are effectively a clone of my OK Instruments one. So I would be happy to suggest one. Something like the RX-711AS would probably be close to perfect. Make sure you get a range of tips, including a 0.2mm tip for SMD work.

The lead free irons are often very expensive because they include hot nitrogen preheat, or something similar. We will have to face a lead free future, but I don't think any hobbyist will be expecting to go to these extremes. If you want to spend serious money, get a hot gas reflow system.

 

[euclid]

i can definately recommend a fluke 177. i picked mine up on ebay new for around $100 but i admit it took a couple weeks of lurking and eventually a snipe, really happy with the dmm though so it was worth it.

 

[jerb]

I had a chance to talk with a few more techs at a local company, they said if I want they can get me the weller for like $80 because they work with the distributer (they had 120 of these Irons on the floor + replacements). their head engineer Told me to avoid the Hakko, he said its a great Iron for the price but it doesnt match the durability/control that the weller has

The more I talked the more he told me how he likes the Metcal, he has a metcal for his station and a "prose"? or somehting of the sort and loved it but both of his stations were like $500

I think at this point theres no Way Im going to be able to snag the Metcal

but If I can get the weller new for the same price as a hakko I may go with that. they told me that If I want they can throw in a few free tips for it and if anything on it ever breaks I can get it fixed from the head engineer ( he said "yeah I have enough replacement parts to replacee every part of every iron on the floor three times over. if anything ever breaks on yours feel free to swing by again and Ill hook you up")

even if the wellers not the superior Iron should I snag it for the benifits alone?

 

[bigmike216]

Sounds to me like they're trying to sell you the weller, because that's what the have... and it sounds like they have lots of them.

I have both, and I prefer the hakko.

 

[MisterX]

Quote:

I have both, and I prefer the hakko.

Me to but I also have a Metcal and it shreds the Hakko.

 

[SemperFidelity]

Only used various Wellers and the Hakko; personal preference is strongly for the Hakko. Response time seemed much faster, and the ability to solder surprisingly large "heat-sink" parts was very useful.

 

[98venom]

Another thumbs up for the Hakko 936.......

 

[bigmike216]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterX Me to but I also have a Metcal and it shreds the Hakko.

I use a metcal at work.. I agree, but I would'nt buy one for home!

 

[bg4533]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterX Me to but I also have a Metcal and it shreds the Hakko.

Would you mind elaborating on how the Metcal is better than the Hakko?

 

[stadams]

I have two Hakko 929's and both have performed flawlessly. For work, in the past I purchased 10 Weller WESD51 of which only six worked correctly. I also ordered 2 WTCPT's of which only 1 worked correctly. All of these units were brand new. The only Weller iron I currently own is a 100 W iron for soldering large mass objects. I stick with Hakko for the electornic assembly. If you've got the money, both Metcal and Pace are excellent also.

Later,

 

[MisterX]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bg4533 Would you mind elaborating on how the Metcal is better than the Hakko?

Better thermal recovery and quicker start up to mention a few of the things it does better.

 

[Francis_Vaughan]

There does seem to be a clear evolution in technology in irons. The new Metcal irons, with RF heating, are getting rather extreme in their ability to create a very tight control of temperature. Needed for more critical work. Disadvantage is that it isn't adjustable. The older technology - i.e. ceramic heaters with a sensor are still very good, but are essentially previous generation. Earlier still are things like the original Weller systems, which go back to the late 70's.

Apart from Metcal there is probably little to pick and choose between brands. Hakko, Goot, CT, Weller are all pretty much producing much the same designs. There are variations in quality of construction. Overall I have been disappointed with the construction quality of Weller. Maybe the new ones have improved. I really like my older OK Instruments (but that is Metcal, just a different branding. Soon Metcal will be called OK Instruments again.) It uses a ceramic heater. But works very well.

The imminent move to lead free might suggest that there is real value in investing in an iron that is specifically rated to work with lead free. You don't need N2 preheat - just an iron that has suitable tips and has enough power and thermal recovery to cope with the lead free solders. Many irons are fine.

 

[Jazper]

I have a Weller WESD51 and I love it to bits *shrugs*