What to use for jumpers?

May 25, 2006 at 3:14 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 5

skyline889

Headphoneus Supremus
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Right now for both of my NAd's I'm using a pair of interconnects to replace the cheap jumpers. will this damage the amp in anyway? I noticed a huge difference in SQ when I swapped out the cheapy jumpers for interconnects on my old NAD 3150 but with my new C352 I don't want any risk of damaging the amp, are these cables okay or is there a better way to go about doing things?

Thanks
 
May 27, 2006 at 4:25 PM Post #2 of 5
I have a C352 and replaced the old jumpers with some Kimber interconnects and it made a great difference in sq. You don't need to worry about damaging your unit. Enjoy!
 
May 27, 2006 at 4:31 PM Post #3 of 5
Quote:

Originally Posted by skyline889
Right now for both of my NAd's I'm using a pair of interconnects to replace the cheap jumpers.Thanks


Don't worry, you did good.
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Laz
 
Jun 13, 2010 at 9:40 PM Post #5 of 5
--Not trying to be perverse in resurrecting this thread, but I finished a DIY jumper cable project a couple of hours ago, and I'm inordinately impressed by the results.
 
I've got some very nice old Aerial Model 7 2 no. driver floorstanders.  (For some sort of reference, see the most recent _Stereophile_review of the Aerial 5B.  http://www.stereophile.com/standloudspeakers/aerial_model_5b_loudspeaker/ -- Indeed! This *is* the most recent 5B review, and it even has an honorary mention of my Model 7s.)
 
The speakers are very finely constructed, but the 'brassy' plates used as jumpers have never been the best.  I finally got around to creating jumper cables.  I purchased 8 no. of the seemingly standard Chinese silver-plated wide spades from Ebay (here, for instance, http://cgi.ebay.com/4pc-Spade-Y-Plugs-Jack-Audio-cable-silver-plated-xb11-/320544113538?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa1eb0382)  I cut 2 no. 2" lengths of two-strand, 12-gauge Romex (which really is about the handiest, good quality cable I've ever had around).  I separated the white from the black leads, and trimmed the ends of the casing.  Stuck them in the silver spades and screwed them down.  The Chinese/Japanese screw-fastening connectors do not always come with the correct screws for fastening (or decent quality screws for durable connection), but you can take a sample connector over to Home Depot (or other hardware purveyor) and find metric bolts that are 4mm, 5mm, or 6mm depending that will fit the holes.  In this context, I think that strong screw connection is more durable than solder, but YMMV.
 
Four pieces of coated, color coded wire.  8 spade connectors.  I fastened them all down.  Then I replaced the Ariel copperized-alloy strips. The Romex is extremely stiff and difficult to work in close-quarters. It was a fiddly business, and you want to be sure that you do not allow the spade connectors to touch at any point.  YES, of course, you can forego the spades altogether and just fasten-down trimmed lengths of bare wire.  Maybe I overcomplicated it.  I'm still happy.
 
In any case, the conclusion isan immediately discernable--quite distinctive--enhancement of treble definition and sustain with the new Romex strips.  The Romex is cheap as chips, so even if you're a perennial sceptic, I still recommend using it or some other good quality cable to try the jumper cable replacement.  Rabid sound sceptics will hear no difference--but then they never do.  I'll warrant to others will be chuffed by the nice improvement made at minimum cost.
 

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