What to put under speakers?
Mar 9, 2007 at 5:26 AM Post #16 of 32
Quote:

Originally Posted by uzziah /img/forum/go_quote.gif
if you're a super-cheapskate like me, cinder blocks are cheap and acoustically inert


in fact, just one cinderblock could just be the perfect thing; i'd take some nice cloth and drape it over them, tuck it underneath, wouldn't look half bad



i was going to suggest the same.
get some cinder blocks, and spend 10 bucks on some nice, purdy fabric to put over them.
 
Mar 10, 2007 at 5:38 PM Post #18 of 32
telephone books?
 
Mar 11, 2007 at 12:39 AM Post #19 of 32
Quote:

Originally Posted by bigshot /img/forum/go_quote.gif
telephone books?


what ?
basshead.gif
 
Mar 11, 2007 at 5:14 AM Post #21 of 32
Quote:

Originally Posted by uzziah /img/forum/go_quote.gif
if you're a super-cheapskate like me, cinder blocks are cheap and acoustically inert


in fact, just one cinderblock could just be the perfect thing; i'd take some nice cloth and drape it over them, tuck it underneath, wouldn't look half bad



So i can make a great speaker stand with cinderblocks?! I'm going to try that.
 
Mar 11, 2007 at 10:45 AM Post #23 of 32
Quote:

Originally Posted by SayNoToPistons /img/forum/go_quote.gif
So i can make a great speaker stand with cinderblocks?! I'm going to try that.


Yes, but make sure you buy the audiophile approved version
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Mar 11, 2007 at 11:24 AM Post #24 of 32
I would put some kind of wooden block, and stick everything on top of Sorbothane(tm) vibration-absorbing pads (available from McMaster-Carr). Sorbothane is used to absorb vibration from heavy machinery, it can certainly cope with speakers.

If you want to get real fancy, use several granite flooring tiles sandwiched with sorbothane.
 
Mar 11, 2007 at 11:32 AM Post #25 of 32
I've tried all kinds of things, and every sort of damper and spike seem has it's own sound; my favorite, concrete with a very thin layer of rubber underneath, and vobrapods between speaker and concrete.

The reason the difference between (de-)coupling methods are so large is IMO: every system has its own prefered resonance frequencies; when the system, in this case the speaker is brought into vibration by (action/reaction of the cone and the air inside moving) this energy is relased in preference frequencies. This has no connectino with the music and is distortion.
These frequencies are determind by the lenght and weight of the system, but also by the nature of the connection with the floor. Soft connections like dampers give relatively high amplitude possibilities, thus the distortion will be in the lower frequencies. With spikes possible movement is largely reduced compared to dampers, so distortiton will occur on higher freqs.
The trick is to find the frequencies where the distortion is least harmful, in your system in your room to your ears.
 
Mar 11, 2007 at 4:09 PM Post #26 of 32
Quote:

Originally Posted by alienman /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yes, but make sure you buy the audiophile approved version
smily_headphones1.gif



The one's that have grains of gold and silver mixed into the concrete?
tongue.gif
.
 
Mar 11, 2007 at 4:59 PM Post #27 of 32
Presents? Do I win?

If box cabinet, use counter weight on top of the cabinet. Suppose to help imaging.

If you are using spikes, keep in mind what they are supposed to do. Go thru carpet/pad and stick firmly in the subfloor. It serves two purposes. Solid platform for generating sound waves and dampening cabinet vibration. When you build a foundation, build for those goals.

I understand not wanting to use the subfloor as the primary dampening point. Vibrations come in to the cabinet as well. Now, if you need to have the spike as the mechanism to transfer the mechanical energy, is a single point the best dispersal contact method for low frequency energy? Would brass be a better material to use for the spike? If the spike is setting on hard material, how effective is the energy transfer? A thread to thread connection into the dampening material would transfer better.

Do the cabinet designs try to build vibration directing technology to transfer energy from all points within the cabinet to the thread inserts? Or does the cabinet material do this? I can see real issues with a tuned cabinet material also transfering mechanical energy away from the driver. Perhaps the drivers could be mounted to a brass frame isolated from the cabinet except in the resonating points. The base would have the thread inserts in the frame for direct contact to the spikes.

I have not tried this yet, but, would a metal thread to a broader wood thread on the bottom into wood block directly (no metal insert)/ dampening material/wood block wood thread thread to spiked subfloor minimize reverse contamination? The wood would have to be dense enough to support the weight of the speaker. The thread would have to be sharp and the insertion slow to minimize damage to the thread contact surface (maximizing contact). Too fast would burn the wood and introduce a harder contact point.

Just some Sunday morning coffee thoughts. May not be worth a crap, but hey, it might. Yeah, thats it.
 
Mar 11, 2007 at 5:30 PM Post #28 of 32
Quote:

Originally Posted by sthswell /img/forum/go_quote.gif
How about maple speaker stands Timber Nation or Mapleshade


I have plinths I got from Mapleshade, they're definitely not cheap, but they are really good quality. They come with a variety of feet so you can order to suit your situation. I have carpet piercing feet on mine.

I'm pretty sure that the combination of the plinths and feet would be close to the height you're looking for, though I couldn't swear to it.
 
Mar 12, 2007 at 1:34 AM Post #29 of 32
Quote:

Originally Posted by majid /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I would put some kind of wooden block, and stick everything on top of Sorbothane(tm) vibration-absorbing pads (available from McMaster-Carr). Sorbothane is used to absorb vibration from heavy machinery, it can certainly cope with speakers.

If you want to get real fancy, use several granite flooring tiles sandwiched with sorbothane.



I have never heard of sorbothane. I saw this one ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SORBOTHANE-SHEET...QQcmdZViewItem

Is there a better deal then this? I live in a 1917 Quad-Plex with great neighbors, but my Definitive Technology sub keeps being turned down, not because of them asking because I'm not wanting to annoy them. I'm looking for something that let's me listen at a normal level.
 
Mar 12, 2007 at 5:58 AM Post #30 of 32
Quote:

Originally Posted by 1badmf /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I have never heard of sorbothane. I saw this one ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SORBOTHANE-SHEET...QQcmdZViewItem

Is there a better deal then this? I live in a 1917 Quad-Plex with great neighbors, but my Definitive Technology sub keeps being turned down, not because of them asking because I'm not wanting to annoy them. I'm looking for something that let's me listen at a normal level.



You don't need a full sheet, the material actually needs to be compressed to be fully effective, so a few small blocks in each corner, say 2"x2" each should be sufficient. Total cost: less than $10, not including shipping.

Sorbothane in small quantities isn't very expensive:
http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplCt...MMainWidth=907

See this page for engineering guidelines:
http://www.sorbothane.com/
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top