What first - Power conditioning or replacement PCs?

[star882]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick82 This is an audio forum... A UPS is best for a PC but not for audio or video gear.

Monitors would qualify as video devices. And a good UPS is about as perfect an AC power supply as you can easily find.
Of course, you can go even further and use lab grade PSUs (the type used in testing labs) to power your amps.

 

[Solude]

Monitors and PCs use switching power supplies which is why a UPS is sufficient for them. Here is why UPS+Linear PS is evil...

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...plant-300.html

Note the stepped power form from UPS vs. ideal AC.

 

[star882]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Solude Monitors and PCs use switching power supplies which is why a UPS is sufficient for them. Here is why UPS+Linear PS is evil... http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...plant-300.html Note the stepped power form from UPS vs. ideal AC.

I wonder what UPS is that. The good ones output a sine wave.

 

[Solude]

I know of no UPS that puts out a true sine wave. They only claim to put out 115V/60Hz, even if it is a 4 sample 60Hz

Anyway my Monster AVS2000 arrived today, little worse for wear but functional and the damage that is there I've repaired. But that's between me and the seller... My previous attempts at power conditioning at a reasonable cost were hit and miss to be sure. This thing though, even with minimal warm up, is whooping the changes made by PCs that already made a significant change in the sound. I also grabbed some Volex 14AWG Shielded PCs so I'm running 12AWG to the Monster and 14AWG out to everything.

The real surprise is that my rig and pc only eat 2.35A or about 280W. Guess I need to upgrade my PC this xmas

 

[helix]

star882: do the calculation, 40uf will look like a dead short at (edit:high )harmonics and will be dropping lots of power at the fundemental. stop giving bad advice. a 40uf cap will be dropping at least 216 watts with 60hz ac. that caps gonna blow unless it's huge and that value is wrong like i said.


http://www.opamplabs.com/rfc.htm

edit again: try it with a 0.047uf cap like i said, you'll get a more realistic resistance value.

 

[star882]

Quote:

Originally Posted by helix star882: do the calculation, 40uf will look like a dead short at (edit:high )harmonics and will be dropping lots of power at the fundemental. stop giving bad advice. a 40uf cap will be dropping at least 216 watts with 60hz ac. that caps gonna blow unless it's huge and that value is wrong like i said. http://www.opamplabs.com/rfc.htm edit again: try it with a 0.047uf cap like i said, you'll get a more realistic resistance value.

It's reactive power, which is not real power. The only heat will be from parasitic resistance in the cap. They actually use caps as resistors in many small AC powered devices, since it can work as a resistor while not emitting anywhere as much heat.
Remember that in a typical motor application, the cap will drop quite a lot of voltage. It will conduct quite a lot of current. If it can handle the voltage and current constantly, it's fine. Also remember that most A/C units run on 240v instead of 120v, so the cap will have to be rated for higher voltage.

 

[helix]

were not working with motors here, to suggest were using this as a reactive circuit would mean parrelleling a cap with an inductor and series resitance. that would mean our loads ac voltage would have to be 0 to 90 degrees out phase with the current. now tell me why the hell would we want to do that, and also a reactive circuit wastes more power "real" than just a purly resistive load. as an exercise take a DMM and try your 40uf cap across the hot and neutral while measuring the amps drawn, i think you'll be in for a big surprise. for a cap used in an "inductive motor" is there to neutralize the moters induction, also causes a phase change. things we don't want. parasitic resistance is not the only thing that will heat up the cap, you should be realistic when you tell someone to use the wrong value cap in a circuit that may or may not be under load and isn't supposed to be out of phase. that cap would be big, i don't see any surge protecter companys using that size cap in there products. gee i wonder why.

your ideas are bad becuase were not tweaking motors.