[mikemikemike]

Quote:

You can just use bare wire, you don't have to use pins but yes you would need 8 if you want to use the pins , you don't need any special tools for stripping the wire i used a pair or scissors and a stanly knife to do mine.

Thanks for the response!  How do I attach the bare wire to the actual amp?  (Is there a tutorial for this or anything?)

 

[JRG1990]

The amp has spring clips, you just twist the strands together hold the clip open insert the cable and then let the clip go.

 

[mikemikemike]

Quote:

The amp has spring clips, you just twist the strands together hold the clip open insert the cable and then let the clip go.

Wonderful, thanks!

 

[ProtegeManiac]

They got everything covered regarding the cable connections. As for adding a sub, look for an active sub with a HP output, preferably via RCA or 3.5mm instead of speaker inputs. Reason for this is I'd rather put hte sub crossover between both amps - the amp for the mains and the one built into the sub - than connect it to the speaker out of the speaker amp, essentially putting two crossovers past an amplified signal. Chances are the crossover will still be active and not passive regardless of the input but I'd still avoid putting more than the passive crossover between the amp and the drivers.

 

[mikemikemike]

Quote:

They got everything covered regarding the cable connections. As for adding a sub, look for an active sub with a HP output, preferably via RCA or 3.5mm instead of speaker inputs. Reason for this is I'd rather put hte sub crossover between both amps - the amp for the mains and the one built into the sub - than connect it to the speaker out of the speaker amp, essentially putting two crossovers past an amplified signal. Chances are the crossover will still be active and not passive regardless of the input but I'd still avoid putting more than the passive crossover between the amp and the drivers.

Thanks for this. If it is going to go between the source and the amp, shouldn't it have an 1/8 inch jack input and output? The amp I got only has an 1/8" input, and my computer only has 1/8" output. What do dvd players/playstations have, RCA? (I'm currently not home.)

 

[BlackbeardBen]

Quote:

Thanks for this. If it is going to go between the source and the amp, shouldn't it have an 1/8 inch jack input and output? The amp I got only has an 1/8" input, and my computer only has 1/8" output. What do dvd players/playstations have, RCA? (I'm currently not home.)

No, it doesn't matter.  It's the same signal, just a different connector (and a common ground, but even though stereo RCA cables don't have a common ground the circuits they are connected to do).  So you'd need two RCA to mini-TRS cables.
 

 

[ProtegeManiac]

Quote:

Thanks for this. If it is going to go between the source and the amp, shouldn't it have an 1/8 inch jack input and output? The amp I got only has an 1/8" input, and my computer only has 1/8" output. What do dvd players/playstations have, RCA? (I'm currently not home.)

It could be either, but personally I'd rather that you minimize using cables that have Y-splits - ie, going from one stereo 3.5mm to two RCA, or vice versa, etc. If the sub has 3.5mm input and output that's great, you can plug it into the computer's soundcard (or even some USB DACs if you get one later) then just another 3.5mm to the Dayton T-Amp. 
 

 

[BlackbeardBen]

Quote:

It could be either, but personally I'd rather that you minimize using cables that have Y-splits - ie, going from one stereo 3.5mm to two RCA, or vice versa, etc. If the sub has 3.5mm input and output that's great, you can plug it into the computer's soundcard (or even some USB DACs if you get one later) then just another 3.5mm to the Dayton T-Amp. 
 

 
It's not like you're splitting a line level signal into two - it doesn't make any difference at all.

 

[ProtegeManiac]

 
Quote:

 
It's not like you're splitting a line level signal into two - it doesn't make any difference at all.

 
Yes it doesn't, I just said I'd rather not. Just sharing my OCD.

 

[mikemikemike]

Thanks everyone... I'm not really sure what a DAC is...
 
Is that Dayton sub any good? (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-635) If I'm going to spend that much (I know it isn't too much, but I don't have that much in liquid assets, if you know what I mean....), I wouldn't want it to be on some cheap but crappy sub.
 
(Also, is the Dayton brand any good? Is it like the parts-express generic brand?)
 
 

 

[BlackbeardBen]

Thanks everyone... I'm not really sure what a DAC is...
 
Is that Dayton sub any good? (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-635) If I'm going to spend that much (I know it isn't too much, but I don't have that much in liquid assets, if you know what I mean....), I wouldn't want it to be on some cheap but crappy sub.
 
(Also, is the Dayton brand any good? Is it like the parts-express generic brand?)
 
 

DAC = Digital to analog converter. It converts whatever your digital audio source is to an analog signal. A computer's headphone jack has one. A sound card has a better one. Most external dedicated DACs are even better.

I've never heard the Dayton sub, but at that price point I doubt it can be beaten by any other new (rather than used) sub. It's at a whole 'nother level from HTIB, computer multimedia, and entry level home theater (think the cheapest 10" Polk) subs. Yes, there are much better subwoofers, and yes, you'll pay much more for them.

Yes, Dayton is the Parts Express house brand. They're great for what they are - high value, inexpensive enthusiast-oriented components.

 

[ProtegeManiac]

If you're using the set-up on top of a desk with a computer that sub's too big. If you mount it on the floor tendency is for you to localize the sound source. It's not like in HT where you're about 10ft away from the main speakers and center channel and virtually the sub will be around that same distance virtually anywhere in the room, and barring acoustic modes, it would be fine anywhere in front of you. Try to look for an 8" in small cabinet and idealy you should have it between the two mains and in the center, like in a studio.

 

[mikemikemike]

Thank you Blackbeard!
 
Quote:

If you're using the set-up on top of a desk with a computer that sub's too big. If you mount it on the floor tendency is for you to localize the sound source. It's not like in HT where you're about 10ft away from the main speakers and center channel and virtually the sub will be around that same distance virtually anywhere in the room, and barring acoustic modes, it would be fine anywhere in front of you. Try to look for an 8" in small cabinet and idealy you should have it between the two mains and in the center, like in a studio.

I eventually want to move this setup from a bedroom to a room with a TV (once I move out of a place with many roommates). I mainly was curious whether that sub was too big for those speakers.
 
Also, it doesn't like like the sub has volume control on it? (Or is that what gain and frequency are?)

 

[BlackbeardBen]

Thank you Blackbeard!
 


I eventually want to move this setup from a bedroom to a room with a TV (once I move out of a place with many roommates). I mainly was curious whether that sub was too big for those speakers.
 
Also, it doesn't like like the sub has volume control on it? (Or is that what gain and frequency are?)

The gain is to level match the sub with your speakers. The frequency setting is to set the crossover frequency - rather simplified, the frequency above which sounds are set to the speakers instead of the subwoofer.

Like I said before, you will have to control the system volume as a whole from your computer, a DAC with a volume control, or a simple passive pre-amp (basically just a potentiometer, RCA jacks, and a case to hold them).

 

[mikemikemike]

Quote:

Quote:

Thank you Blackbeard!
 


I eventually want to move this setup from a bedroom to a room with a TV (once I move out of a place with many roommates). I mainly was curious whether that sub was too big for those speakers.
 
Also, it doesn't like like the sub has volume control on it? (Or is that what gain and frequency are?)

The gain is to level match the sub with your speakers. The frequency setting is to set the crossover frequency - rather simplified, the frequency above which sounds are set to the speakers instead of the subwoofer.

Like I said before, you will have to control the system volume as a whole from your computer, a DAC with a volume control, or a simple passive pre-amp (basically just a potentiometer, RCA jacks, and a case to hold them).

Thank you. And sorry if you ahve already answered this, but I just want to be 100%. If I were to buy that sub (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-635), even if it is too big for those speakers or what I want to use it for, is it worth the money if I am thinking I eventually want to upgrade my system? (In other words, If I eventually wanted to move this stuff to a living room to attach to a TV, could I use that sub, or would I have to buy another, rendering it a useless purchase now?)
 
Edit: I found this (but it is kind of old)... do these people know what they are talking about? http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/archive/index.php/t-848069.html