Vibration supression pads for speakers?
Jun 1, 2008 at 1:42 AM Post #16 of 17
I think that this article resumes pretty much what speakers spikes do and can not do, based on theory and some measurements, in a given scenario. I strogly encourage who is interested in the topic, to read it, and do not follow blindly those claims, from the manufaturers/dealers of those producs, that most of the times are just marketing plugs...For the records I have my spekaers spiked as well, as I have carpet all around the apt...
 
Jun 6, 2008 at 5:00 AM Post #17 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by Mozhoven /img/forum/go_quote.gif
In order to raise the tweeters up to my ear level, I'm considering building some speaker stands (boxes really) out of MDF since it is acoustically inert.

Is there anything I need to do to the contact point between the box/speaker or box/floor? Cork, felt pads, etc. I'm trying to avoid floor spikes if possible.



As a rule of thumb, the best speaker stands keep the speaker from moving about without causing any additional resonances. (A hollow MDF box may actually make things worse - try filling it with sand or a mixture of concrete and vermiculite.)

While there are many tricks for this, a really heavy stand will often work the best. The sheer mass of the stand alone will damp much of the vibration. This is why cinderblocks work so well.

I rather like the design of the "TNT Stubby" - it's cheap, it's easy to build, and because it's filled with sand, it should work very well indeed. I'm building a pair myself.

TNT-Stubby - A DIY Speaker Stand Project on TNT-Audio [English]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ozz /img/forum/go_quote.gif
What ever you do to get the tweeter to ear level will always sound
better. There are many things to look for in a speaker design and one
important one is how well the cabinet is made does it transfer all of
its musical energy through the drivers and ports are does it loose a
lot from flexing or vibrating the cabinet.



Yes, Yes, and very yes.

I've been learning to design speakers, and there is one aspect I've noticed to many designs: While they'll sound just fine if you're up to thirty degrees off to the left or right of the speaker, they'll go completely wonky if you're only ten degrees above or below the plane of the tweeter's output. In other words, head level is the way to go.

Secondly, quite a lot of unnatural-sounding noise is caused by the box itself, which can resonate like a bell. If you can feel a speaker's box buzzing quite strongly even at low volume, it's likely not rigid or well-braced enough. Bowers & Wilikins and Wilson Audio have gone to great lengths to eliminate cabinet resonance, and their work shows.
 

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