Valab NOS DAC - subjective listening and modifications

Apr 5, 2009 at 3:53 AM Post #181 of 2,013
I caught Steve Nugent of Empirical Audio at a slow moment this week and we took a closer look at the DIR9001 data sheets.

http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/dir9001.pdf

We discussed the feasibility of adding an external clock to the DIR9001 receiver chip for lowering jitter on the SPDIF inputs (Co-Ax/Toslink). His conclusion was there was no benefit in adding an XTI (external) 24.576 MHz Clock as discussed on page 16 of the data sheets. An external clock or the built in internal clock on the DIR9001 (PLL mode) is only used for recovering the clock from the SPDIF data stream (biphase input signal). While the DIR9001 receiver chip will lock onto any frequency from 28 kHz to 108 kHz, it can output only the same exact frequency as found at the input. 96/24 in 96/24 out. It will not up-sample, down convert or reclock the data. We audiophiles are mainly concerned with 44.1, 48, 88.2 and 96 kHz sampling and yes the Valab Dac can lock onto all these frequencies. It's just to bad 192 kHz is not an option for the DIR9001 as Steve Nugent just pointed out that the Phillips 1543 DAC chip "can" actually handle a 192 kHz input frequency, however it is limited to a 16 Bit word length. If you feed it a 24 Bit word it simply converts only the 16 most significant bits.

And here we all thought that the Valab's 1543 Dac chip was only capable of 44.1/16 ... Not so!

(This new found capability of the Valab Dac led me to an afternoon of playing native 96/24 music files and running software upsampling tests using my new Mac Mini. For now, suffice it to say the results were very interesting).

Steve and I then turned our attention to page 7 Figure 3, specifically the RECOVERED SYSTEM CLOCK (SCKO) JITTER vs. LOCKED SAMPLING FREQENCY graph. Notice how low the jitter is with a 512 fs. Doing a quick check per table 3 (page 14) we found pins 13 & 14 where grounded (L/L). This means the Valab Dac is set to 128 fs from the factory. Looking again at the jitter graph, we see 80ps at 44.1 kHz. With 512 fs jitter is cut in half to 40ps, that's substantial my friends!

Back to the solder bench. The legs on the DIR9001 chips are very small and required both reading glasses and my magnifying lens to perform this touchy operation. Be careful!!! Luckily pins 13 & 14 are located at the very end of the chip. What I did was cut each leg from the board with a razor blade. Then I carefully lifted the legs and soldered them together with a short piece of 28 gauge wire. This wire needs to go to positive 3.3 Volts, which provides the H/H as seen on Table 3, Page 14. Next I soldered this wire to the positive output from the small 3.3 volt surface mount regulator. Badda boom, badda Bing, the receiver chip is now set to 512 fs. (I will post a picture when I get a chance)

Normally this 512 fs would be output to the master clock input on a Dac Chip, however the 1543 Dac chip doesn’t even have a master clock input (SCKO). You see the 1543 is a "non" oversampling chip. Kapish? Steve Nugent claims that even modern Dac chips will not accept a 512 fs let alone a 384 fs master clock. However the 512 fs mod serves “our” purposes on the Valab Dac by lowering the SPDIF input clock jitter. AKA … The Poor Man’s Pace Car!

Well how does it sound???

In a word, Fantastic! I was able to compare "direct" SPDIF, USB & Pace-Car inputs at 44.1/16 Bit. While neither the USB nor the newly tuned SPDIF input could compare to the Pace Car input, the "direct" SPDIF input took a big step in the right direction. Having the Pace-Car on tap allows me to hear ultra low jitter, and yes, the 512 fs mod most definitely lowered jitter and improved the sound. Musically this comes off as more natural sounding 3D highs and a further increase in soundstage size. Nice!

Playing around will all manner of software upsampling on my new Mac Mini I ended up preferring 48 kHz 20 Bit with both SPDIF and USB input. I never tried this particular setting before, but to my ears it sounded the most like the Pace Car. Once again looking at Figure 3, you see jitter drop down to a very low 30 ps when playing 48 kHz signal. In the past I would have thought changing the fs and word length would have a negative effect on the sound but this clearly was not the case with my new Mac Mini. Humm! When I tried 96/24 the highs began to roll off, no doubt something to do with the 1543 Dac Chip 16 bit capability. Lowering to 96/20 and 96/16 progressively brought back the highs but 48/20 was still the madman in my system. That said the 512 fs mod will be well worth your time even if you are only using a 44.1/16 from a CD player.

Once again I would like to thank Steve Nugent for his continued support with the Valab Dac modifications. Steve is a true professional with excellent customer support and I can highly recommend all of his cutting edge digital audio products.
 
Apr 5, 2009 at 4:35 AM Post #182 of 2,013
Very nice, Bill.
I would really like to see a picture.
I can see how the 13+14 legs get tied together.
I just can't see where the connection then goes.

It's also interesting to note that the DIR9001 is 5v tolerant so when changing voltage regulators going higher than 5v is NOT indicated.

I have read where running these dacs at 8.5 volts is noted as the best performance but that doesn't seem to be able to be done here as the voltage regulator is shared between all DACs and the DIR9001. So we are stuck with 5v. This means you can go for a non-variable regulator.You can probably also get rid of the caps and resistors if going for a super regulator. Less parts, Bill. ;-)

That's my interpretation. Let me know if I error.

You are the man!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Allen /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Back to the solder bench. The legs on the DIR9001 chips are very small and required both reading glasses and my magnifying lens to perform this touchy operation. Be careful!!! Luckily pins 13 & 14 are located at the very end of the chip. What I did was cut each leg from the board with a razor blade. Then I carefully lifted the legs and soldered them together with a short piece of 28 gauge wire. This wire needs to go to positive 3.3 Volts, which provides the H/H as seen on Table 3, Page 14. Next I soldered this wire to the positive output from the small 3.3 volt surface mount regulator. Badda boom, badda Bing, the receiver chip is now set to 512 fs. (I will post a picture when I get a chance)


 
Apr 5, 2009 at 8:15 AM Post #183 of 2,013
Pat,

while both of the larger voltage regulators share the 12 VDC power rail, the biggest one powers "only" the 8 Dac chips at 7.8 volts so it's feasible that we could raise this voltage by changing resistors. However its questionable if raising this voltage will help or hurt on the Valab Dac.

The smaller LM317 is set to output 5V and supply's the rest of board with power. Looking closer I found that the 2 tiny surface mount regulators (which are both supplied 5 VDC from the LM317) both output 3.3 volt. One powers Pin 5 on the DIR9001 chip. The other one powers Pin 24 on the DIR9001 chip, which controls the filter network for PLL Loop, see page 15. So while the DIR9001 is 5V tolerant it clearly runs on 3.3 VDC. I believe it is the input signal that is 5 V tolerant but I am not 100% clear on that.

I hooked the jumper wire for the 512fs mod (pins 13/14) to the "center leg" positive output of this tiny regulator. The positive output from either of the tiny 3.3 VDC regulators would work but I decided to keep it in the family and hooked it to the tiny regulator that powers pin 24. Your choice.

My feeling is we should definetely try swapping out the two larger regulators. My friend Tony is emailing Paul Hynes about our application and we will see what he has to say on the subject. Stay tuned.
 
Apr 5, 2009 at 5:46 PM Post #184 of 2,013
for those who want to try this mod ..pin 1 is where the dot is located on the chip
 
Apr 5, 2009 at 9:13 PM Post #185 of 2,013
use caution when attempting last mod. practice cutting and soldering on ic's of old soundcards or videocards before trying on dac. ..the pins are delicate
 
Apr 6, 2009 at 1:24 AM Post #186 of 2,013
Thanks for the feedback, Bill.

So it is an 8v regulator I am after and I will leave the resistor so it drops to 7.8v. In any event I am glad you responded because I was going to get a 5v regulator.

Yep, I see those smaller regulators. I am going to have a bit of work cutting the legs because I placed a heatsink on the receiver and I can not see the traces on top of board easily. I will have to twist that heatsink off.

dac_board.jpg


Right now the impact of the Teflon bypass caps is still a big thing. I recall changing the caps on the regulator had a nice impact so I look forward to what the super regulator will bring. If positive I will replace the regulator for the board with a 5v DEXA.

Nice new road you are providing.

EDIT:
After a little reading I found that the LT1084 is an upgraded form of the LM317.
So swapping in the LT1084 is a lower cost, lower noise replacement for the boards LM317 regulator.
They both have the same pinouts so the LM1084 is a "drop in" replacement.
Easy swap so bang for buck that is what I am going to do first.
 
Apr 7, 2009 at 1:27 AM Post #187 of 2,013
Here is the picture of the 512 fs Mod on a late 2008 board.

Attachment 15851

What you are looking at is Pin 13 & 14 lifted from the board soldered to a thin wire, which in turn is soldered to the positive output (center pin) of one of the tiny surface mount 3.3V regulators.
 
Apr 7, 2009 at 1:59 AM Post #188 of 2,013
On the 2008 PCB, the I/V resistors are the ones located next to the power LED, correct?

Also, Bill thank you for the "new trick." Let me ask you this: IYHO, is it worth the risk of ruining the DAC?
 
Apr 7, 2009 at 2:52 AM Post #189 of 2,013
Thanks, Bill.
Easily do-able.

Regarding my earlier note on the boards regulator and the DIR9001.
I am thinking that the best place for a better regulator IS the one that powers the receiver in that if you lessen ripple there you reduce jitter at the critical pickup point. I have a LM1085 on the way and will let you know.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Allen /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Here is the picture of the 512 fs Mod on a late 2008 board.
What you are looking at is Pin 13 & 14 lifted from the board soldered to a thin wire, which in turn is soldered to the positive output (center pin) of one of the tiny surface mount 3.3V regulators.



 
Apr 7, 2009 at 4:51 AM Post #190 of 2,013
Hi guys,


The monarchy DIP works well the valab. What I heard was a increase in detail and transparency . Cymbals are less smeared sounding especially in jazz recordings..it's worth a try


Rich
 
Apr 7, 2009 at 11:51 PM Post #191 of 2,013
Little did I know, but I have been chasing the Jitter Demon ever since that rare sunny day in England, cira 1983. Walking out the door of the Audio/Video Center at RAF Bentwater's clutching my $450 Sony CDP-101 and 10 brand new CD's. Man, was I on a high.

Well that was until I got to my house in Felixstowe and pressed play. All 10 CD's sounded like one of those cutout albums from the dollar bin. Disappointment was an understatement. I promptly marched back the next day and tried to get my money back. The cashier pointed me to "the sign" ... {No returns on music "or" layaway items} Imagine I made payments for 6 months and this was my just reward. I walked out the store disgusted into a cold gray drizzling morning. My Digital Audio Life Begins.

When I got out of college in 1988 I sold my Sony CDP-101 to a man in Phoenix AZ for same money I paid for it, having never bought another CD. Sucker!!! I did however rent CD's from time to time from the local Hi-Fi store only to record to cassette tape. (Hey man no choice, albums where no longer being sold)

In 1994, now working for the Airlines as an Avionics’ Tech, I was transferred from Honolulu to L.A. and then on to Newark N.J. all within 1 year. (Yea, that was a bobsled to hell). Tired of hauling around my albums and Klipshhorns I was forced to make a drastic change. I subscribed to Stereophile magazine and attended every Stereophile show since 1989, I fly for free you see. While I enjoyed looking at what had become High End Audio I was never swayed by its calling ... until now. Enter the JVC 1050 CD player, JVC AX-Z911 digital amp (I still have them) playing into Magnapan 3.0 planers (long gone). For the next 10 years I was on the junk, a time lapse camera of my high-fi room would be intense. Finally for my 40th birthday in 2002 my wife bought me my heart’s desire, brand new McIntosh Tube Gear. For the next 3 months I sat in "that room" alone, not even my cat would venture in. My audio life had hit rock bottom.

Fresh out of audio rehab I drug the Klipshhorns back out of the garage to my wife's total disbelief. Paul Klipsh was right, what the world needed was good 5 watt amp. Enter the DIYHIFISUPPLY Ladyday 300B's maxed out with silver wire and coupling caps. And while I was at it, a Bastanis Prometheus Open Baffle speaker kit, free shipping from Hong Kong when bought together. (Total cost was less than what I paid for my then current speaker cables). The fun factor was back in full swing, back to the garage went the Horns and front and center went the SET's and Bastanis. I'm back!!!

Sold on this awesome sound, I started Bauls Audio ready to show the world what could be done with very little money. We took "2nd Best Sound of the Show" from Stereophile magazine at the 2004 RMAF. Total cost of the system was less was than $5000 to build. The kicker here is.... to build.....

What I discovered was the majority of the audiophiles call this a hobby but are not willing to do "any" work! Be it to build something or to actually learn. What they really want is their audio all lined up on a silver platter which they're willing to pay for with one dollar bills. Next comes the spoon feeding, burping and the diaper changing. My latest plan is change Bauls Audio to "I'm not your Mom" Audio.

You say what does this have to do with jitter.


It all jitter baby...........................
 
Apr 8, 2009 at 3:11 AM Post #193 of 2,013
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Allen /img/forum/go_quote.gif
What I discovered was the majority of the audiophiles call this a hobby but are not willing to do "any" work! Be it to build something or to actually learn. What they really want is their audio all lined up on a silver platter which they're willing to pay for with one dollar bills. Next comes the spoon feeding, burping and the diaper changing.


You said it. Take it home, plug it in, then listen to it. That makes watching TV a hobby as well.

Take note. In the dictionary, under "full disclosure", there is Bill's picture
 
Apr 8, 2009 at 8:18 AM Post #194 of 2,013
thanks to Pat, Bill, Tubes and all the guys who took a great dac to a amazing dac with the advice and mods on this thread
 
Apr 8, 2009 at 5:18 PM Post #195 of 2,013
Thanks to Bill and Steve Allen's article, I was inspired to try the DIR9001 mod.
I used some solderwick first and then I took a hot iron, put in on the pin and lifted carefully with an dental pic (not to push to high as it would likely snap). It was really that easy. For the wire running b/t tied pins 13 and 14 to 3.3V I used a single strand of Plenum Cat 5E.

My immediate impressions are similar to Bill's. To add, I sense a more cleaner, clearer presentation, more air and more euphoria. In short, this is a huge improvement over stock and highly recommended.

Here's my take on it:
DSC03623.jpg

DSC03626.jpg
 

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