Quote:
Originally Posted by jjlucas76 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Considering that you have swapped components a bit at the time, I hope you have noted down the difference of any change in sound quality.
JJ
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One thing I will say is that the overall detail is ripping. Bill calls it reality. I can't think of a better way except to say the best illusion of reality. Shout out to Phill for the tips.
yellow dot, Power stage filtering: 3 Rubycon XYF 1000u/35v
red dot, Voltage regulator: 2 Blackgate STD 10uF/50v
yellow square, Output: 2 Blackgates STD 4.7uF/50V + NX Hi-Q 0.1uF/50V
blue dot, Input: 1 Rubycon XYF 100uF/25v
blue dot, Digital circuit chips: 8 Rubycon XYF 100uF/25v, blu tac
green dot, TDA1543 decoupling: 8 Rubycon YXF 4.7uF/50v
red square, output resistor: KOA/Speer 390ohm carbon film
white dot, Noise filter: removed output filter capacitors
The power caps and regulator caps added focus and weight
output caps change from hifi tinkly to weighty with texture, over time these open up
input and ICs really added depth and a lot more focus. adding blu tac makes a bit of difference for focus.
DAC decoupling added some weight but was too close to the electros to really show much of what it did
output resistors, carbon, added softness, roundness. May change this to PRP or most probably Riken which are cleaner
Silver Mica really finished the job off but that mi be because the stock caps were noisy.
I think the blu tac always helps on ICs. I sue it to hold the caps in place when I solder them. I think it also help ward against noise. All things vibrate and caps should be twanging in the air.
As for noise overall I think that the stock caps may add some distortion/noise. Changing them out to just Rubycon might make a difference in getting the noise out. Using BG non polar in the signal is something I have gotten used to and I like the sound of them. Bill goes for big foils and I would too - I just want to be able to put the lid back on.
I also drilled some holes in what I would like to call the art house golden ratio on the top above the heatsink. And on the bottom, per Phill's suggestion, at the bottom to get cross ventilation.
Looks off center from the outside but looks dead on from the inside.
I painted the top chassis lid and front plate black. It made no difference to the sound.
I facilitate the drill job with a circa 1952 Korvettes drill. If you've ever tried to trim your mustache after a night of Old Gran' Dad you will know how that drill accommodates. I love the thing.
I've logged it all here:
VALAB NOS DAC