[hisagishi]

So I borked my dt 990 trying to do the detachable cable mod.

I need something with more bass though. Also please don't recommend me things that are prone to breaking, I want these headphones to last me 6+ years or so. (drivers going out, headphone band snapping, etc)

Also I have very large ears, the 990s barely contained them...

Over ear only please and 200 usd is my max

 

[serman005]

So I borked my dt 990 trying to do the detachable cable mod.

I need something with more bass though. Also please don't recommend me things that are prone to breaking, I want these headphones to last me 6+ years or so. (drivers going out, headphone band snapping, etc)

Also I have very large ears, the 990s barely contained them...

X2 or, if you want to wait a bit, X2HR. More bass than the 990, probably a bigger stage, and a bit less detail. I don't have an X2 on my person, but as I understand it from other people's measurements, the cup diameter of the X2 is 2.5 inches--FWIW. Philips will be releasing an X2HR some time this spring, just so you know. Not sure if the X2 is going to still be available, or if the X2HR is replacing the X2. Cost for the new version is said to be around $372.00 or so. Some thoughts. YMMV, of course.

 

[hisagishi]

Any options for closed back headphones?
 
I was thinking the V-MODA Crossfade LP2 as its only 130 dollars on amazon or perhaps the M-100 as its 209 but honestly not sure if I want to spend that much.
 
For 130 dollars how are the crossfades in your opinion?

 

[hisagishi]

Oh I forgot to mention, I won't be listening to music on these. My main purpose for them will be gaming, youtube, and podcasts in that order. Also the gaming won't be competitive, mostly things like Just Cause and Fallout/Skyrim.

 

[serman005]

  Any options for closed back headphones?
 
I was thinking the V-MODA Crossfade LP2 as its only 130 dollars on amazon or perhaps the M-100 as its 209 but honestly not sure if I want to spend that much.
 
For 130 dollars how are the crossfades in your opinion?

The Crossfade LP is bass-emphasized like the M100, but in my view that bass bleeds somewhat into the midrange. Its soundstage, which is important for gaming, is not nearly the size of that of the DT990 and X2. Open headphones are generally recommended for gaming, as you probably know.  

 

[liquidzoo]

Out of curiosity, what happened to your DT990 that you say you broke them? I ask because I thought the same on my DT770 and it turned out to be fixable.

 

[hisagishi]

  The Crossfade LP is bass-emphasized like the M100, but in my view that bass bleeds somewhat into the midrange. Its soundstage, which is important for gaming, is not nearly the size of that of the DT990 and X2. Open headphones are generally recommended for gaming, as you probably know.  

 
Yes, I know open headphones are better but I thought the bass of the 990s to be far to light for my liking and everyone said open headphones don't have nearly the bass of closed headphones. I would have returned them if they weren't the 3rd set of headphones I went through trying to find one I liked. (corsair headset, hd 558, dt 990) Waiting weeks to get a headphone I might not like and have to return just got a bit much for me.
 
 

Out of curiosity, what happened to your DT990 that you say you broke them? I ask because I thought the same on my DT770 and it turned out to be fixable.

 
Burned my hand and dropped the soldering iron right on the membrane(?) part of the speaker.

 

[liquidzoo]

Burned my hand and dropped the soldering iron right on the membrane(?) part of the speaker.

Yeah...that would do it.

If you still like them and still want to keep them, though, Beyerdynamic will sell you just the driver (they'll do the repair too, but it's pricey).

 

[hisagishi]

Yeah...that would do it.

If you still like them and still want to keep them, though, Beyerdynamic will sell you just the driver (they'll do the repair too, but it's pricey).

 
I already cut the original cord and put a (massive) hole for the far to big connector. (oops) Would they still take it back and do the repairs on it? Honestly really regretting trying the mod now...

 

[liquidzoo]

I already cut the original cord and put a (massive) hole for the far to big connector. (oops) Would they still take it back and do the repairs on it? Honestly really regretting trying the mod now...

They might (with damage to the cup it's likely they'll tell you the warranty is voided, but they might still allow the replacement work to be done), but if not you could get the driver from them and replace it yourself (if you think you wrecked the cup too, they sell that as well).

It's likely you'll have to email Beyerdynamic to find out where to buy it...it's not listed on their North America site, and listed as only through authorized dealers on the Europe site. Chances are, though, that the driver itself is around $55 (I did find it in a British shop for £67.68 here)

 

[hisagishi]

Ah, about the warranty, it was already up. I've had these 990s for about 4 years now so...
 
Yeah for 55 bucks I'd rather just put that towards a whole new set. Thanks for trying though
 
@ anyone else who reads this, TLDR of first post is:
 
Gaming, youtube, podcast headphones in that order. Under 200, preferably under 150 or so. Won't be listening to music or doing any competitive gaming, just single player stuff like fallout/skyrim etc.
 
Pref. bass heavy. Durable and over ear is required.

 

[atarione]

what about DT770 pro 80's ??? they are same size as the dt990's so they will fit your ears even if just barely and they are closed and they have a good bit of bass.
 
(personally I like the DT770's over the 990's )
 
you could always keep an eye out for an appropriate donor used set of DT990's for cheap to harvest the parts needed to fix your 990's later?    bummer about dropping the soldering iron... ouch.. that sucks... but stuff happens. 
 
when I did the removable cable mod on my ATH M50's my wife startled me while I was trying to solder the 3.5mm jack to the wires from the driver and broke two of them off the driver... luckily no damage just used hook up wire I had laying around (which was easier than dealing with the stock wire anyways. 

 

[hisagishi]

Oh man for the 990s that stock wire is horrible to try and use. Its got some weird coating on it, enamel or something and it unravels way to easily.
 
I just tried to hook them up to see if the other speaker worked alright (it should) and I am not getting any sound at all from it. I either have it hooked up wrong or just a bad solder job. If I screwed up the wiring would it blow the other speaker out? (Like hooked ground into positive or something?)
 
Also, why does one speaker have 3 connections and the other only hook into two of them?
 
Edit: I might get a pair of dt 770s if they are cheap enough.

 

[atarione]

  Oh man for the 990s that stock wire is horrible to try and use. Its got some weird coating on it, enamel or something and it unravels way to easily.
 
I just tried to hook them up to see if the other speaker worked alright (it should) and I am not getting any sound at all from it. I either have it hooked up wrong or just a bad solder job. If I screwed up the wiring would it blow the other speaker out? (Like hooked ground into positive or something?)
 
Also, why does one speaker have 3 connections and the other only hook into two of them?
 
Edit: I might get a pair of dt 770s if they are cheap enough.

 
 
so.. having messed with removable cable mod's for my M50's and Sony V6's ... the stock wires on both are very hard to work with.. they all seem to have some enamel coating which you need to get off for the soldering to work.. it is a hassle for most headphones it seems.
 
so with the wires 3 vs 2.. so when you look at the left driver you have the stock cable coming in with ground (copper) left (green) and right wires (red) .. beyer soldered the red wire to the left driver and then there is also a 2 wire cable going to the right cup soldered onto the ground and red (right) connectors on the left driver.. they could have forgone connecting the red wired to the left driver  ..but since they have the common ground I guess they decided it was best to put the right wire connector on the left driver ...I assume it is easier to manufacture / service this way with the cable coming in all going to the same driver / end point??
 
I think it is probably a wiring problem on the right driver.. I bet it is intact.. double check the wiring or even take the driver out and wire it temporarily to the stock cable to red / ground and I bet that driver works.. I doubt the other mishap killed the right driver.. the left driver probably it sounds like but I imagine the right one is ok...
 
i'm too lazy to take my dt770's apart atm.. so here is a photo of the DT880's from teh internets.. wiring is the same as the DT770 or 990's  (however in this photo the left wire is blue instead of green apparently.. meh.. blue == green in this case)
 

 

[hisagishi]

Yes, I am pretty sure its a bad connection due to my soldering. I however have to wait until I get some better desolder braid or a solder sucker of some sort... My current desolder braid doesn't work at all it seems, it heats up but it doesn't heat up the solder underneath, just ends up burning my hand from holding the braid...

Any recommendations for good solder wick? I just bought the cheapest stuff I could find on ebay, some good solder while you are at it would be cool also.