EFN
Headphoneus Supremus
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2006
- Posts
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From the first time I received my YUIN PK1, I hated the cavernous sounding mids. Well to be fair I liked the rest of the sound spectrum specially the MS-1 like highs and lush bottoms.
My PK-1 was meant to be modded from day1, I have planned for it long before I purchased them from The-One for a very fair price. Less than 20 hours in them so I'd keep the sonic talk later.
I have posted a tutorial before on ER-4 recabling. Now feast your eyes on PK-1 deconstruction and intensive recabling work.
- Step 1 begin with prying open the driver enclosure. It wasn't easy and if you have aweak heart chances you will fail miserably...and probably rupture the transducers in the process. A good shove using small jeweler flat head did the trick. But some cosmetic damage along the sides are unavoidable since they are made of plastic.
- A quick desolder work detached the driver unit easily. The transducer unit all naked
- The mod begin with the driver front cover. A-LA Kramer, I opted to add one generous hole right in the middle. Flathead jeweler did the drilling. Use Exacto knife to refine the edges
- Just like my Ultramodded ER-4S, I opted to use my favorite 0.2mm 5N Solid Core teflon insulated pure silver meant specifically for Audio (Octave Audio PJ, Malaysia). The wires were custom ordered from Germany. Because they are quite pricey, I decided to make a 1M recabling in total length, which means I need 4M - one wire for each L/R and grounds. They are then sleeved with soft 1mm heatshrinks.
- The Y split were set at 0.5M each and then I covered the joint with masking tape which will later will be heatshrinked as well.
* The lower part where they all converge into one cable, I sleeved them with 1mm heatshrink first and then another layer with 2mm to beef up the size and improve the flexibility
* I used my cigarette lighter to work the heatshrinks
- At the converged end, a 3.5mm plug was soldered. Complete with hot glue insulation for stronger strain relief support. Those tiny wires don't respond well to jolts so this is a MUST.
* Mundorf GMBH silver solder was used - I am a silver junkie
- Now that the wires are all sleeved properly, it's time to work the drivers
* IMPORTANT, a knot must be placed right at the inner stem of the driver to provide strain relief
* Using a proper support, soldering was easy. Just make sure the wires are correctly aligned
Once both side has been soldered, the driver unit and the front cover were reunited - no glue for now because there may be a need to readjust something. I had in mind of adding a tiny foam behind the transducer to dampen bass - which hopefully will tighten them even more.
The finished product:
PS:
I will not talk much on the sonic characteristic after recabling for now. Not until some 150 hours have been clocked. Okay just a hint, immediately transparency has been audibly improved - closer to my ER-4S now but not quite.
Stay tuned
My PK-1 was meant to be modded from day1, I have planned for it long before I purchased them from The-One for a very fair price. Less than 20 hours in them so I'd keep the sonic talk later.
I have posted a tutorial before on ER-4 recabling. Now feast your eyes on PK-1 deconstruction and intensive recabling work.
- Step 1 begin with prying open the driver enclosure. It wasn't easy and if you have aweak heart chances you will fail miserably...and probably rupture the transducers in the process. A good shove using small jeweler flat head did the trick. But some cosmetic damage along the sides are unavoidable since they are made of plastic.
- A quick desolder work detached the driver unit easily. The transducer unit all naked
- The mod begin with the driver front cover. A-LA Kramer, I opted to add one generous hole right in the middle. Flathead jeweler did the drilling. Use Exacto knife to refine the edges
- Just like my Ultramodded ER-4S, I opted to use my favorite 0.2mm 5N Solid Core teflon insulated pure silver meant specifically for Audio (Octave Audio PJ, Malaysia). The wires were custom ordered from Germany. Because they are quite pricey, I decided to make a 1M recabling in total length, which means I need 4M - one wire for each L/R and grounds. They are then sleeved with soft 1mm heatshrinks.
- The Y split were set at 0.5M each and then I covered the joint with masking tape which will later will be heatshrinked as well.
* The lower part where they all converge into one cable, I sleeved them with 1mm heatshrink first and then another layer with 2mm to beef up the size and improve the flexibility
* I used my cigarette lighter to work the heatshrinks
- At the converged end, a 3.5mm plug was soldered. Complete with hot glue insulation for stronger strain relief support. Those tiny wires don't respond well to jolts so this is a MUST.
* Mundorf GMBH silver solder was used - I am a silver junkie
- Now that the wires are all sleeved properly, it's time to work the drivers
* IMPORTANT, a knot must be placed right at the inner stem of the driver to provide strain relief
* Using a proper support, soldering was easy. Just make sure the wires are correctly aligned
Once both side has been soldered, the driver unit and the front cover were reunited - no glue for now because there may be a need to readjust something. I had in mind of adding a tiny foam behind the transducer to dampen bass - which hopefully will tighten them even more.
The finished product:
PS:
I will not talk much on the sonic characteristic after recabling for now. Not until some 150 hours have been clocked. Okay just a hint, immediately transparency has been audibly improved - closer to my ER-4S now but not quite.
Stay tuned
