[BLACKENEDPLAGUE]

Okay so I've been a member here for a little while now, but I don't have much in the realm of audio gear. I have a budget a $250 to get either a good soundcard, a dac/amp, or a dedicated dac and headphone amp. To be honest I have absolutely no idea how to optimize the value and whenever there is something promising, I find erratic differences in opinion or my indecisiveness pulls the wheel. My PC is used mostly for music and movies, sometimes gaming, there is no need for surround sound gear.
 
As for components I already have: Rokit5 G2's, M50 coiled, and an Auzen Xraider
 
Hopefully this thread doesn't pop up too terribly often, but it seems like a better idea to ask the experienced than take a shot in the dark for something as monetary dependent as this hobby.

 

[PurpleAngel]

Quote:

Okay so I've been a member here for a little while now, but I don't have much in the realm of audio gear. I have a budget a $250 to get either a good soundcard, a dac/amp, or a dedicated dac and headphone amp. To be honest I have absolutely no idea how to optimize the value and whenever there is something promising, I find erratic differences in opinion or my indecisiveness pulls the wheel. My PC is used mostly for music and movies, sometimes gaming, there is no need for surround sound gear.
As for components I already have: Rokit5 G2's, M50 coiled, and an Auzen Xraider
Hopefully this thread doesn't pop up too terribly often, but it seems like a better idea to ask the experienced than take a shot in the dark for something as monetary dependent as this hobby.

I'm not sure you really need to change anything.
You could swap out the X Raider for a Asus Xonar DG (PCI) $30, it comes with Dolby Digital (Dolby Virtual Headphone).
It come with a half-way decent headphone amplifier, might(?) slightly improve the sound of the ATH-M50.
 
 
 

 

[BLACKENEDPLAGUE]

Well yeah the M50's are pretty low power and stuff, but down the line I'm going to go as high as HD650s or (wallet willing) the LCD 2s. This is just a jumping point into the rabbit hole

 

[zzffnn]

You may want to isolate the noise from your computer / sound card by using an external dac or dac/amp.
 
Fiio E10 is a decent and cheap choice, although it only accepts USB input. Fiio or Audio-Gd offers some decent choices.
 
I suggest getting all three common digital inputs from one or two dac/amp combo, preferable one portable dac/amp and one stationary dac/amp. This way you have flexibility. Optical input is useful for PS3, some TVs, portable players such as Iriver H1XX series and CD players. Coaxial input could be useful as well, though may not be as popular as optical these days.
 
Do keep in mind that HD650s or LCD2s are power hungry and will scale up surprisingly well with better stationary amps.
 

 

[Mauricio]

How about going with the Audio-gd NFB12 ($200) DAC/Pre-amp/Headphone amp?

 

[ROBSCIX]

There are many great internal and external components.  You just need to decide which features you need and try to find a source within your budget that will give you what you want.  You have a reasonable budget for a good soundcard or entry level DAC.
 

 

[BLACKENEDPLAGUE]

The features that I would like to have:
 
Max processing to 24/192 (however I read on here that quote "no one needs that")
optical in, and POSSIBLY dual XLR out (for the Rokits)
The dac should be decent on it's own, so a dedicated amp can be bought later.
upgradable maybe?
as neutral as possible
 
With all this in mind, a $300-350 budget (trying to get a dac and amp for under $400 if at all possible)
 

 
oh jesus it sure would be nice to know whether if any of this makes a difference or if I need a different hobby

 

[ninjikiran]

http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/tubemagic_d2

 

[BLACKENEDPLAGUE]

Quote:

http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/tubemagic_d2

Is there any benefit to the D2 over the D1? The D1 looks a lot better being an all in on dac/head amp/pre amp

 

[Head Injury]

Am I missing something? Why hasn't the Essence STX been suggested? Usually people jump on that, sometimes too fast.
 
It would be good for your needs. Very good DAC, powerful headphone amp that'll drive anything you wish to upgrade to (except probably the HE-6). Dual RCA line out you can use for active speakers. Dolby Headphone and Pro Logic, etc. Definitely overkill for the M50, but within budget and (from what I've heard and seen) future-proof with no need for external devices.

 

[BLACKENEDPLAGUE]

#1 - oh look a brony (totally meant as a joke)
 
#2 - Yeah I have been looking into the ST and would love to get it, but I really need a pre amp. Having to fiddle with the back of these dang rokits gets old pretty screw*ing quick

 

[RonaldDumsfeld]

Why do you want an amp if you already have Rokits? I thought they were powered speakers in their own right?

If you need more power and deeper bass get a sub later.

I guess if you've got cash burning a hole in your pocket you could get an external USB audio interface with a half decent headphone amp built in.

For your budget something from M-Audio might fit. Fast Track Pro if you think you might want to record stuff at some point. Otherwise a regular Fast Track would do. Even something from Berhinger is worth considering -  DAC design is pretty simple , a chip on a board and a power supply with no moving parts. If you want to push the boat out a little bit try the Focusrite Sapphire 6.

 

[BLACKENEDPLAGUE]

Quote:

Why do you want an amp if you already have Rokits? I thought they were powered speakers in their own right?

I guess if you've got cash burning a hole in your pocket you could get an external USB audio interface with a half decent headphone amp built in.

For your budget something from M-Audio might fit. Fast Track Pro if you think you might want to record stuff at some point. Otherwise a regular Fast Track would do. Even something from Berhinger is worth considering -  DAC design is pretty simple , a chip on a board and a power supply with no moving parts. If you want to push the boat out a little bit try the Focusrite Sapphire 6.

#1 - They are powered, but having a volume control would help immensely. Constantly fixing the rear knobs and the C-Media gui is irritating!
 
#2 - No hole is being burnt
 
#3 - That has been pretty intriguing.

 

[RonaldDumsfeld]

 
Quote:

a volume control would help immensely.

 
O.k. Thanks. I've know where you are coming from now.
 
I've got ADAM active speakers which have the master gains on the from panel and offer the option of controlling both both channels from either speaker. 
 
This is a classic problem to which there are several popular solutions.
 
A separate amp isn't one of them btw. You cannot connect the Rokits to the regular amp outputs and whilst you can connect them via a aux or monitor phono pair the master gain on the amp will not control the output from them.
 
You could use a mixer or a dedicated monitor controller (google it). Even use one of those MIDI control surfaces to map software controls to hardware. That said, the best thing to do in your position is what I said before. Get an stand alone audio interface with it's own output gain - most, if not all, do so it's not a problem. It's what most Rokit users will be using in any case.
 
Check out the manufacturers websites I mentioned above. You could also add the EM-U 0204 to the list.
 
Ask again if you have any more specific questions
 
 
 

 

[BLACKENEDPLAGUE]

You know with all this hassle I'm almost ready to sell the god damned rokits
 
For >$250, what would be your GO-TO interface with monitor control? 24/192 dac is great but not mandatory.