[Fred_fred2004]

you're planning on a lot of desoldering the rolls I buy are about 4ft and last for a fair time

 

[nate911]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred_fred2004 /img/forum/go_quote.gif you're planning on a lot of desoldering the rolls I buy are about 4ft and last for a fair time

Good to know

Any advice on my shopping list so far?

Thanks for all the help...really appreciate it

Also, I assume the 936 is better than a Hakko Dash or another simple pencil iron. I'm not sure how much I'll get into DIY but since I plan on building a Millet amp--the 936 will come in handy for it. This $200 should last me awhile for equipment I suppose

 

[Juaquin]

Those tweezers look good.

Wick should be enough to get you started. I actually like the pump more for through-hole stuff - it will suck the solder straight out of the hole no problem 99% of the time - way easier than braid for that. Put the iron on one side (add more solder if you need to), the loaded pump on the other, and press the button. It's always worked great for me.

 

[regal]

Quote:

Originally Posted by nate911 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Good to know Any advice on my shopping list so far? Thanks for all the help...really appreciate it Also, I assume the 936 is better than a Hakko Dash or another simple pencil iron. I'm not sure how much I'll get into DIY but since I plan on building a Millet amp--the 936 will come in handy for it. This $200 should last me awhile for equipment I suppose

The Hako 936 was one of the best DIY tools I bought, definately worth it. For tips you can get a bag of various sizes off ebay for $10 if I remember right.

But if you only plan on building a couple amps those 15W radioshack irons will get you by, I built a Millet + diamond buffer (SMD resisitors) with one. Didn't get the Hakko until I had to solder an SMD PCM1704.

 

[UKToecutter]

Just as an aside.....

Unless you REALLY need to keep the desoldered component, I find it much easier to clear the hole if I cut the component off the board first.
That way you're only heating the remaining bit of leg.

Using this method a solder sucker usually works great for me.

 

[regal]

Quote:

Originally Posted by UKToecutter /img/forum/go_quote.gif Just as an aside..... Unless you REALLY need to keep the desoldered component, I find it much easier to clear the hole if I cut the component off the board first. That way you're only heating the remaining bit of leg. Using this method a solder sucker usually works great for me.

I don't know if its my solder sucker but I've never had any luck with it, always resort to flux + braid.

 

[nate911]

Quote:

Originally Posted by regal /img/forum/go_quote.gif The Hako 936 was one of the best DIY tools I bought, definately worth it. For tips you can get a bag of various sizes off ebay for $10 if I remember right. But if you only plan on building a couple amps those 15W radioshack irons will get you by, I built a Millet + diamond buffer (SMD resisitors) with one. Didn't get the Hakko until I had to solder an SMD PCM1704.

So for most of the work I'm planning to do I would be fine with a pencil iron? Would it be easier with the 936 or not really?
What about building a bantamDAC?
Hmm...

 

[Juaquin]

You're going to want more than a standard pencil iron for a Bantam. If you don't want to shell out the cash for the Hakko, there are many clones available for ~$40 that are 97% as good as the original. I use one and have been really impressed, especially with SMD soldering.

 

[nate911]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juaquin /img/forum/go_quote.gif You're going to want more than a standard pencil iron for a Bantam. If you don't want to shell out the cash for the Hakko, there are many clones available for ~$40 that are 97% as good as the original. I use one and have been really impressed, especially with SMD soldering.

Alright. I've looked at some like this before...but the quality concerns me. I may just end shelling out $80 for the 936...

Any suggestions for some cheap smooth needle nose pliers? I'm sure these are great but if cheaper ones can do the same that's fine. I'm getting cutters for around the same price ($20) because I don't want them breaking/chipping...

 

[UKToecutter]

Nate.

One other thing I find absolutely essential is a good light source.
Probably because I'm getting on a bit and my mince pies arn't what they used to be, but good light is a must.
Doesn't have to be anything fancy. I just use a desk lamp with a 20W low energy bulb (equivalent to about 75W incandescent).

 

[Oberst Oswald]

From one rookie to another... get the real 936. It will make dealing with all the small & large parts a pleasure. These DIY amps are like Wise potato chips... bet you can't eat (build) just one so it will be a good investment.

 

[Mr.Sh0eWax]

How much flux do you guys usually buy at a time? all I seem to see are gallon jugs...

 

[MikeW]

I was at the electronics store today and found a neat little tool that i've never seen before. I have not had the chance to use it yet, but it looks like it's going to be pretty awsome. it's called a "Small parts puller" basically it's a small spring loaded plunger with a tiny "Claw" that comes out the other end, when you release the plunger the "Claw" retracts grabbing whatever is in it's grasp. I can see ton's of uses for this thing. Like holding resistors while you solder them in, or even pulling them out etc.

edit: the tool is actually called "Wireprong Holder"

http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2012/.f

 

[Juaquin]

Quote:

Originally Posted by nate911 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Alright. I've looked at some like this before...but the quality concerns me. I may just end shelling out $80 for the 936...

I have the 2A from CSI (the digital version of the one you linked). I've used it to build two Carrie amps, my SSMH, a Bantam, and soon a Grub (in addition to other electronics projects, cables, etc). No problems so far. Quality doesn't seem to be an issue, but it can't hurt to buy the real thing either.

 

[nate911]

Quote:

Originally Posted by UKToecutter /img/forum/go_quote.gif Nate. One other thing I find absolutely essential is a good light source. Probably because I'm getting on a bit and my mince pies arn't what they used to be, but good light is a must. Doesn't have to be anything fancy. I just use a desk lamp with a 20W low energy bulb (equivalent to about 75W incandescent).

I'll keep that in mind

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oberst Oswald /img/forum/go_quote.gif From one rookie to another... get the real 936. It will make dealing with all the small & large parts a pleasure. These DIY amps are like Wise potato chips... bet you can't eat (build) just one so it will be a good investment.

I may just go ahead and do that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeW /img/forum/go_quote.gif I was at the electronics store today and found a neat little tool that i've never seen before. I have not had the chance to use it yet, but it looks like it's going to be pretty awsome. it's called a "Small parts puller" basically it's a small spring loaded plunger with a tiny "Claw" that comes out the other end, when you release the plunger the "Claw" retracts grabbing whatever is in it's grasp. I can see ton's of uses for this thing. Like holding resistors while you solder them in, or even pulling them out etc. edit: the tool is actually called "Wireprong Holder" http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2012/.f

Heh, that's a pretty interesting tool.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juaquin /img/forum/go_quote.gif I have the 2A from CSI (the digital version of the one you linked). I've used it to build two Carrie amps, my SSMH, a Bantam, and soon a Grub (in addition to other electronics projects, cables, etc). No problems so far. Quality doesn't seem to be an issue, but it can't hurt to buy the real thing either.

Hmm ok... I'll have to decide whether it's worth the extra $40 to get the real thing...