mminutel
500+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2007
- Posts
- 552
- Likes
- 10
Ah Thank You! I was scared there for a second. Mine is 24V 400mA.
Originally Posted by joneeboi /img/forum/go_quote.gif Right. So with the help of tomb and mono I was able to successfully put together the circuit and all is well. All except that there still isn't any bass when I plug it in and listen. I tried first with some Zune buds just to make sure it would work, but then they started to get really warm. Taking them out, I switched to my KSC75s and that is when I discovered the lack of bass. I know tomb mentioned this in an earlier post, but is there any sort of solution? Get a wall wart closer to the projected voltage (I am using 19V and need 13.3)? Add another battery in series? |
Originally Posted by trains are bad /img/forum/go_quote.gif I have a 12v sealed lead acid battery of the kind that power PowerWheels or emergency lighting in buildings. Can I just use a wall wart at 15v, and hook it, up, trust the current regulation in the wall wart to limit the current, and leave it hooked up for a 'long time'? Car batteries are constantly under like 15v from the alternator, right? |
Originally Posted by trains are bad /img/forum/go_quote.gif I have a 12v sealed lead acid battery of the kind that power PowerWheels or emergency lighting in buildings. Can I just use a wall wart at 15v, and hook it, up, trust the current regulation in the wall wart to limit the current, and leave it hooked up for a 'long time'? Car batteries are constantly under like 15v from the alternator, right? |
The T version is in a TO-220 package, the LZ version is in a TO-92 package. Big difference in the amount of heat they can dissipate.
If your charging current is low, you can use the LZ version.