[Budgie]

Like this-
The output of the swenson mod can be the input to the next stage, which is the opamp of the vinnie mod. In other words, you can tap signal off at the input of the opamp or at the output of the opamp. Since the input to the opamp is very high impedance, (multiple megohms typically) the problem with feeding two sources is not an issue. It works fine and is not audible. If you don't believe me, use a socket for the opamp, then you can unplug it when you try the swenson mod.

 

[rsaavedra]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Budgie The output of the swenson mod can be the input to the next stage, which is the opamp of the vinnie mod.

That sounds to me as if you simply don't have the Vinnie mod proper. The presence of the Swenson capacitors might be altering the signal feeding the opamp in the Vinnie mod. Not sure about that either, but that would be my guess. You really might not be listening to what the Vinnie mods proper (and Swenson mods proper for that matter) might be able to do.

 

[CBMC]

finally got my order from Partsconnexion. It only took 23 days

 

[Neville]

CBMC- ouch that was a looooooooong time.

Well guys - guess what ? IT WORKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !

I did exactly as suggested by you and bought a new iron with a small iron tip and screwed it on, also got desoldering braid/wick.

I was so impressed by it that i redid the 627's on the browndog and it looks pretty neat. It did take me almost an hour to get the browndog on the PCB.

THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH !!!!!

I got her playing for an hour and will listen then, will take it apart after that to add damping to it. I will take pics of it when its reopened.

 

[rsaavedra]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Neville Well guys - guess what ? IT WORKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !

Many congratulations Neville!!! I know exactly how you feel man, enjoy and happy listening!!!

 

[Neville]

Thanks Rsaavedra, and boy does she sound sweet. There is a LOT more detail to every cd I have listened to so far. Its also very very smooth.
I cannot do a A/B comparison but from my recollection, I would put the "3968" (am I entitled to a new name??) in the class of the mid-tier Linn cd players, NAD does not even come close, neither does most Rotel players.
It is also far superior to the stock Pioneer 563 I had as well as to my 5 cd carousal Sony SACD/dvd player. So yes, I can agree that It sounds like a $500-$1000 player

I tried to upload, but limit of 25kb forced me to use a link to my website:

This is the Power PCB layout:
http://www.uniqpc.com/toshiba_3960/power-pcb-layout.JPG

1. note the location of fuse and Panasonic ECG 150uF 250V - very different location

This is the fuse and noise filter:
http://www.uniqpc.com/toshiba_3960/noise_filter.JPG

2. Too close for my liking. But you might also note that I removed the existing filters. I cannot understand how piggybacking 2 components is going to improve anything. It makes sense if it flowed from one to the other but that is not the case here.

This is another closeup of the fuse and filter:
http://www.uniqpc.com/toshiba_3960/noise_closeup.JPG

3. If I had known about the fuse tweak I would have kept the longer legs on the filter next to the fuse, but its not like I will be changing fuses often (I hope!) Look at that monster Panasonic ECG !! Its height brings it into close proximity to the DVD top case. I am going to either have to shorten the legs or place the HDepot tile on the outside of the case.

So what did I not replace ?
"Replace C825 (10V, 120uF) with Panasonic FC 16V, 220uF
[Digi-Key Part Number P11199-ND]"

Reason was Digikey did not have it in stock but I am not planning on doing it anyway if they do restock...


Future mods:
1. ceramic fuse - Rshack only had glass fuses

2. damping which I plan on doing today with JR Wels
3. "takking" the crystal - Lowes had "fun tak" which i hear is not the right one. I cannot see why AAdvisor sells Blu Tak for $10 ??? Any other places ?
4. Painting it black - all my components are black except for my Jolida 1501RC.
5. Adding el cheapo rubber feet from a previous project
6. replacing power cord with HDepot power cord
7. I have not used the video menus but will look into that - I have not found any comments if there are menu tweaks
8. Adding heatsinks chips on Audio PCB

My gut feel tells me that damping and rubber feet will make the biggest difference, obviously apart from the drastic part mods its already undergone.

 

[rsaavedra]

Great job Neville!


Quote:

So yes, I can agree that It sounds like a $500-$1000 player

Boy this reminds me I should update my own Recommended digital sources thread, indeed I agree the modded Toshiba could be nominated for the $1K+ range (maybe more, that is just conservatively speaking).


Quote:

Originally Posted by Neville But you might also note that I removed the existing filters. I cannot understand how piggybacking 2 components is going to improve anything. It makes sense if it flowed from one to the other but that is not the case here.

Well, same as resistors do to total resistance when they are in series, that's what capacitors do to total capacitance when they are connected in parallel. And the larger the capacitance here, the better the filtering for the mains, so I understand that's why Vinnie recommended to put them in parallel with the stock blue ones. But the new large black ones alone in principle do way better filtering than the blue ones, so you should be fine.


Quote:

Its height brings it into close proximity to the DVD top case. I am going to either have to shorten the legs

I would just bend it sideways if possible, so in that case longer legs are actually more convenient.


Quote:

3. "takking" the crystal - Lowes had "fun tak" which i hear is not the right one. I cannot see why AAdvisor sells Blu Tak for $10 ??? Any other places ?

As long as it doesn't catch fire when heated up, and that it doesn't conduct electricity, I don't see why it wouldn't be the right one. It's just mechanical dampening after all, pretty much any non-combustible, non-conductive thick plaster would do. Rope caulk for instance should work as well.

 

[Jose Garcia]

Hi to everyone. This is my first post in this fantastic forum and I want to congratulate all of you and thanks Raul Saavedra for his pictures , excellent information and help.

I have read many information about this mods and I'm enthusiastic about them. Just checked at Digi-Key for the parts but most of them are on backorder or out of stock. So, I decided to check at Michael Percys site and gave him the details. Most of his line includes Nichicon ( which I like) but no Panasonic. With the Op-amp and Black Gates have no problems.

I want to consult you about this posible changes in parts to see if they are ok.

1- Digi-Key P5930-ND Replace the stock 68uF 200V electrolytic cap with a Panasonic ECG 150uF 250V type for better filtering and lower ESR

MP has this one available...Black Gate 150uF , 350 V $20.50

Could I use this one ? Does it justifies the price difference?

2- Digi-Key P10528-ND Add a Panasonic X2-rated 0.47uF Noise Filter cap in parallel across C801 and one across C802 for better mains filtering

MP offer a Solen noise filter cap with 0.47uF , 600V $1.60/each

Could I do without them? Are this ok?

3- Digi-Key Part Number P10244-ND Replace C621, C514, C533, C506, C702, C631, C709, C707, C710, C705, and C902 (all 16V, 100uF) with Panasonic FC 16V,120uF

MP has Nichicon FG 100uF, 25V . Vinnie told me that I may use 220uF , 16V too ( as long as they provide space ). Any other value?

4- C-825

I suspect that this cap is not on-board of the SD-3960. Has anyone noticed this too?

Thanks again,

Jose/PR.

 

[rsaavedra]

Hi Jose!

Standard salute: Welcome to Headfi, and sorry about your wallet!!!
Nice to see a fellow audioasylum crawler crawling on these other audio lands

Quote:

4- C-825 I suspect that this cap is not on-board of the SD-3960. Has anyone noticed this too?

Yes, I haven't seen the insides of a 3960, but have read about that difference:
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/dig...ges/88892.html

(Guess what Jose, only now I realize that link points to a posting of yours

)

About cap values/brands and which ones are ranked ok or better than others, or which ones might do better for the Toshiba's circuit, I really don't have such knowledge. Probably some of the DIYers here might want to share bits of their expertise on that.

 

[Jose Garcia]

Gracias Raul:

I saw the new Toshiba SD-4960 unit for sale at E-Bay

http://cgi.msn.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI...708420702&rd=1

JandR was announcing these units for a few weeks now but never changed the "pre-order" status. The same with another store named EZDVD. I heard that there were a call-back because of video problems.

At the Asylum, we were specting to get out and heard news from their first buyers, so we can have an idea on how this unit was as a stand alone CD and SACD. The miracle of the 3950/3960 sound could knock twice !!! I HOPE.

Jose.

 

[Neville]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsaavedra Great job Neville! I would just bend it sideways if possible, so in that case longer legs are actually more convenient. When damping the chassis, I resoldered the BIG ONE and seated him pretty close to PCB. I have plenty clearance. As long as it doesn't catch fire when heated up, and that it doesn't conduct electricity, I don't see why it wouldn't be the right one. It's just mechanical dampening after all, pretty much any non-combustible, non-conductive thick plaster would do. Rope caulk for instance should work as well.

Fire ???? I recall from my early days of overclocking/now tweaking, heat is ENEMY #1. I have left the side air vents but have damped everything else.
(just in case....when i do damp the top cover I plan to add slits for air vents...just small ones

Here is a link of damping the Power PCB:
http://www.uniqpc.com/toshiba_3960/damping-1.JPG

And a pic of both PCB and cd-tray being damped:
http://www.uniqpc.com/toshiba_3960/damping-2.JPG
(sorry about it being blurred)


Here is final pic of chassis with PCBs installed:
http://www.uniqpc.com/toshiba_3960/damping-3.JPG

I ran out of tiles for the DVD cover but already it is pretty heavy and solid!
I also attahced RFI beads to my power and rca connectors.

Jose Garcia : I would say that it does not matter as long as the specs equal or exceed current part specs: welcome aboard !!!! But then again I am a newbie at this - this is only my recommendation from a computer parts perspective.

 

[Jose Garcia]

Thanks Neville...

Nice pictures. How about the clock? Have you already damped it?

I will suggest to use bearings instead of rubber feets.

Here is a picture of my bearings devise...

http://www.audioweb.com/Ad/Images/145454.JPG

...sand fill
...concave door knobs
...copper end caps
...crazy glue
...ball bearings

That's all.

Jose.

 

[Jose Garcia]

Raul...

Do you have those stock caps on hand?

What are the sizes of them?

Jose.

 

[Neville]

"Nice pictures. How about the clock? Have you already damped it?"
Not yet, but I do plan to do it. I like those feet/balls !!!

Well 5 hours of playing redbook and here is my early verdict:
Foreground music and especially vocals are more pronounced, background
instruments/vocals has turned from hazy to sharp.

Man I cannot wait for another 24 hours ................................

John Atkinson, you better nominate this and the HDepot/Halloween cables as tweak of the year !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now...back to tweaking my Maggie speakers

 

[Jose Garcia]

Don't expect much out of John Atkinson review. You know how this it. He will be reviewing the stock model and he will have some pressure from the "Big Guys" who pays for the magazine ad$$$.

If he only have a modified unit to compare the stock model!!!

Sue Craft made trash out of the Toshiba in a recent review. I didn't read it but there were enough talking at the Asylum. She has very expensive system and heard much of everything. A few inmates said that she never read the manual and the settings were not the best , to begin with.

At least, John Atkinson is more responsible when he audition a system. Telling that the SD-3950/3960 is a bargain at this price and that compares to system costing $500-1K is like throwing stones to a glass window...So I belive he may be polite on his results but nothing more.

Jose.