Topping L30 - The new budget benchmark?
Aug 24, 2020 at 1:48 PM Post #151 of 506
I received my L30 a few days ago and did an AB comparison volume matched by ear with my JDS Labs Atom set to low gain and L30 at 0dB gain setting. My comparison was done with the DX3 Pro (1st Gen) running in DAC mode and HifiMan Sundara headphone. After a few days of comparison, I've found that the Atom is slightly more powerful with a slightly wider soundstage. The L30 seems to add a little more decay on the upper lows or lower mids area which gives a little more body to that frequency range whereas the Atom has less decay and gives a tighter response in that region with nice low frequency extension...tight and extended.

As for the high frequencies, it's the direct opposite with the L30 producing shorter decay whereas the Atom produces a little more decay making it sound more airy in high frequency region. The Atom also reproduce layers of instrumentation much more clearly though it's not night and day's difference, you can definitely tell the difference especially with the Sundara headphone. Fast percussive transients are reproduced equally well on both amps and mid frequency region is about on par with both amps too.

My conclusion after few days of listening is that both the Atom and L30 are very good headphone amps at super affordable price so I'm keeping both. I'll most likely use the L30 with brighter headphones and the Atom will be the preference when I want a more transparent sound. This is of course not a full review of the L30 but just my own personal experience with both the L30 and Atom....YMMV.
Interesting comparison, a lot of new information that I did not know. I would have liked that in your tests, I also used an IEM to know which of the two handles the noise problem with sensitive IEMs, well in my case I have an IMR R2 Aten, and I don't know which one could be better for my headphones, since I wouldn't want to hear the buzz from the demanding power these two amps produce, but I guess with low gain there should be no problem, hopefully you'll broaden your experience if you have IEMs available to test
 
Aug 24, 2020 at 3:29 PM Post #152 of 506
Interesting comparison, a lot of new information that I did not know. I would have liked that in your tests, I also used an IEM to know which of the two handles the noise problem with sensitive IEMs, well in my case I have an IMR R2 Aten, and I don't know which one could be better for my headphones, since I wouldn't want to hear the buzz from the demanding power these two amps produce, but I guess with low gain there should be no problem, hopefully you'll broaden your experience if you have IEMs available to test

I would get the L30 for sensitive, low impedance IEMs like that. The low gain sitting on the L30 is -9db, where as it is 0db on the Atom and the Schiit Magni series. Low output impedence is 0.5db, so you are good there, too.

So much better suited for your IEMs.
 
Aug 24, 2020 at 7:45 PM Post #153 of 506
Interesting comparison, a lot of new information that I did not know. I would have liked that in your tests, I also used an IEM to know which of the two handles the noise problem with sensitive IEMs, well in my case I have an IMR R2 Aten, and I don't know which one could be better for my headphones, since I wouldn't want to hear the buzz from the demanding power these two amps produce, but I guess with low gain there should be no problem, hopefully you'll broaden your experience if you have IEMs available to test
Both the L30 (-9dB gain) and Atom (low again) as cel4145 pointed out above have no noise issues with low impedance IEMs. For this test I used my Fitear TG334 at 16 ohm impedance and Dynamic Motion DM200H at 24 ohm impedance.
 
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Aug 25, 2020 at 6:58 AM Post #154 of 506
My L30 has quite a loose headphone jack, there's very little resistance when plugging in or unplugging headphones. Do you guys have the same experience, or is my amp possibly defective?
Yes. Poor quality and execution. Volume knob also has its issues. And I am a little worry about long term use of those toggle switches.
 
Aug 25, 2020 at 12:00 PM Post #156 of 506
but the knob can be replaceable or not?
I don’t think so. But it’s not the knob per se, it’s the pot itself. Topping is aware of this and says that it’s “normal”. When moving the knob slightly in both direction there’s a bit of a play. Meaning, no volume change. Not a deal breaker but it’s there. There are few other things that I’ve notice but I won’t get into it now.
 
Aug 25, 2020 at 1:20 PM Post #157 of 506
Yes. Poor quality and execution. Volume knob also has its issues. And I am a little worry about long term use of those toggle switches.

The volume knob on my L30 is fine.

I definitely noticed a slight bit of play in the toggle switches. Because they're so tiny, invariably one is likely to put a slight bit of left or right pressure on them when using them. How's that going to work out after 1,000 flips of that switch? Seems like the most likely point of failure on the amp.

I'm actually returning my L30. It doesn't really benefit me over the Atom that I have other than the tiny toggle switch option for switching between headphones and speakers. That, and as a formal visual designer, I'm not particularly excited about the entire design of the front interface.

So it doesn't seem worth keeping it between returning the L30 cost minus shipping vs. selling the Atom for a good bit less than I paid for it plus PayPal fees and shipping. Either way I'm out shipping, and then I'm likely paying $65 to $70 more for the L30.
 
Aug 25, 2020 at 2:14 PM Post #158 of 506
The volume knob on my L30 is fine.

I definitely noticed a slight bit of play in the toggle switches. Because they're so tiny, invariably one is likely to put a slight bit of left or right pressure on them when using them. How's that going to work out after 1,000 flips of that switch? Seems like the most likely point of failure on the amp.

I'm actually returning my L30. It doesn't really benefit me over the Atom that I have other than the tiny toggle switch option for switching between headphones and speakers. That, and as a formal visual designer, I'm not particularly excited about the entire design of the front interface.

So it doesn't seem worth keeping it between returning the L30 cost minus shipping vs. selling the Atom for a good bit less than I paid for it plus PayPal fees and shipping. Either way I'm out shipping, and then I'm likely paying $65 to $70 more for the L30.
I don’t know if that volume pot play is plague affecting every single unit or not but bunch of ppl complained about it. As far as toggle switchers go......... I am also not a fan. I love toggle switches but, good ones run anywhere between $5-10 and I doubt L30 switches are even close to that kind of quality. I’m swapping between 5 headphones and that could be a potential failure point. I’ve asked designer about that as well and he assured me that they are fine. Also, when you take a closer look at those switches from the inside, you will see that they’re mounted with some sort of epoxy or glue. That’s worrisome. I guess we will see. Performance wise, it’s a nice, clean little amp that drives all my headphones with ease. So no real complaints there. Not as refined as my reference amp but it’s like comparing apples to oranges. Two completely different topologies.
 
Aug 25, 2020 at 2:24 PM Post #159 of 506
I’ve asked designer about that as well and he assured me that they are fine.

Well, the L30 designer over at ASR also said at first that he didn't see why consumers needed the 2V DAC input headphone output specs, but he has since changed his mind. So I would not have a lot of confidence in those switches unless they give us MTTF type specs.
 
Aug 25, 2020 at 2:35 PM Post #160 of 506
Well, the L30 designer over at ASR also said at first that he didn't see why consumers needed the 2V DAC input headphone output specs, but he has since changed his mind. So I would not have a lot of confidence in those switches unless they give us MTTF type specs.
Good point. And yes, I’ve read that little camp fire debate. I use toggle switches in all my portable BT “boom boxes” and love it. But I have to replace all those toggle switches that come with my preferred circuit board (optional with wiring package) with my own. Cheap ones, always fail. I can fix them but who has the time for that BS.
 
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Aug 25, 2020 at 2:42 PM Post #161 of 506
Good point. And yes, I’ve read that little camp fire debate. I use toggle switches in all my portable BT “boom boxes” and love it. But I have to replace all those toggle switches that come with my preferred circuit board (optional with wiring package) with my own. Cheap ones, always fail. I can fix them but who has the time for that BS.

Admittedly, I was spoiled at one point by the Audio-GD NFB-11 toggle switches. They are awesome:

nfb-11.jpg
 
Aug 25, 2020 at 3:22 PM Post #162 of 506
umDbkKj.jpg
Admittedly, I was spoiled at one point by the Audio-GD NFB-11 toggle switches. They are awesome:


Nice. I like toggle switches on my Dragon as well. Heavy duty.
Here is the inside pic of L30 mounted switches. Tell me if you see an issue with that? Usually toggle switches are threaded with a nut screw to secure it with. Not here.
 
Aug 25, 2020 at 4:17 PM Post #163 of 506
Also, when you take a closer look at those switches from the inside, you will see that they’re mounted with some sort of epoxy or glue. That’s worrisome. I guess we will see.
This epoxy glue is typically used to reduce mechanical vibration on solder joints. The main support comes from the metal bracket (as seen on the photo) also soldered to the PCB. To work reliable such switch has to operate with a little force. Switching currents are small, so reliability is determined by the make, not a switching force.

I have similar switches on Topping D30 (praised on Head-Fi), switches are not a reason it is left in a drawer.
 
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Aug 25, 2020 at 4:54 PM Post #164 of 506
This epoxy glue is typically used to reduce mechanical vibration on solder joints. The main support comes from the metal bracket (as seen on the photo) also soldered to the PCB. To work reliable such switch has to operate with a little force. Switching currents are small, so reliability is determined by the make, not a switching force.

I have similar switches on Topping D30 (praised on Head-Fi), switches are not a reason it is left in a drawer.

I see it now. Still, I’m not convinced. If I was sporadically using those switches, I would be a little less paranoid. Without going in circles, I would just end it with that I’m not thrilled about it.
L30 is getting a lot of hype as well. Maybe it’s justified. I don’t know. I just bought it to have some point of reference as my preference gravitates towards tube base gear. Trying solid SS amp with my cans was also a consideration (give the praises it received).
 
Aug 25, 2020 at 5:18 PM Post #165 of 506
umDbkKj.jpg


Nice. I like toggle switches on my Dragon as well. Heavy duty.
Here is the inside pic of L30 mounted switches. Tell me if you see an issue with that? Usually toggle switches are threaded with a nut screw to secure it with. Not here.

That's interesting.

I'd be more worried about the internal mechanics of the switch itself. Say someone uses the power headphone pre out toggle five times in one day, five times in one week. That's 1,300 times in a year. But let's just make it a thousand times in a year.

I'm having difficulty imagining the toggle designer thinking, "This toggle tiny switch is going to get a lot of use. We got to make it last through thousands of flips."
 

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