[jterp7]

I tried out the D90 yesterday, the movie mode at least was not great at all. THough other than that it seemed a good upgrade to the D80, which I've owned at one point (only a modest D50 at the moment)

 

[philodox]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigshot /img/forum/go_quote.gif I had an F2 and I sold it when I inherited an F3. I regret it. The F2 was a great camera.

What was it about the F2 that you preferred over the F3? I like the fact that it is completely mechanical, but that is really more for the 'cool factor' than anything else.

Mocok - Is that a good deal? Would those two lenses cover everything for me at first?

 

[bigshot]

The F2 was easier to use. The electronics in the F3 are irritating. Instead of a needle to read exposures, you get a row of leds like a cheap video game. The F3 works and it's fine, but the F2 just seems more intuitive and closer to what a film camera always was.

See ya
Steve

 

[dj_mocok]

The 35mm should be enough for most of your shooting, I am not sure with the other lens though, looks like an elcheapo. If everything still works perfectly without fungus, fault, etc... I think that price is pretty decent.

But actually after having a closer look, I think the equipments are a bit dirty, but I might be wrong. Although for some reason my gut feeling says they might have problem - either fungus or stiff mechanical...

 

[philodox]

Thanks for the info Steve.

It really does look like a great deal as long as everything works. I can take my time and give it a good cleaning. Have a friend who is a professional photographer who should be able to tell me if everything is in working order. Shoot a roll of film, see how it turns out, and take it in for serviceing if it needs it... still way cheaper than the other F2 auctions I was able to find.

Waiting to hear back from him on shipping costs.

 

[philodox]

Was talking to my photographer friend and he thinks we'd be better off checking out the local camera shops and pawnshops since we could see and handle the stuff and not have to worry about shipping. So, we're going tomorrow night.

 

[GTRacer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigshot /img/forum/go_quote.gif The F2 was easier to use. The electronics in the F3 are irritating. Instead of a needle to read exposures, you get a row of leds like a cheap video game. The F3 works and it's fine, but the F2 just seems more intuitive and closer to what a film camera always was. See ya Steve

The LEDs aren't that bad to be honest... Sure it's impossible to see at night since the lamp is really weak but you can't see the needles anyway.

 

[dj_mocok]

Quote:

Originally Posted by philodox /img/forum/go_quote.gif Was talking to my photographer friend and he thinks we'd be better off checking out the local camera shops and pawnshops since we could see and handle the stuff and not have to worry about shipping. So, we're going tomorrow night.

Shooting from ALL mechanical type of SLR must be fun!

 

[GTRacer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by dj_mocok /img/forum/go_quote.gif Shooting from ALL mechanical type of SLR must be fun!

Advancing the film manually after taking a great shot just brings a smile to my face.

 

[Hayduke]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Towert7 /img/forum/go_quote.gif I wish my camera had a passion setting.......... ~_~

Isn't that the "Auto" setting?

My understanding is that the "Faithful" setting is trying to get the color/exposure to be as close to the original as possible. It seems like it's the more "neutral" setting as opposed to some of the others that may use difference WB or other exposure values.

*shrug* but what do I know? I just got my D80 after letting my AE-1 sit for a decade.

On that note, I just returned from a 6 day backpacking trip in The Canyon with my new D80. I love the camera, but I found that I'm not real good at getting proper exposures. I mostly shoot in aperture priority mode. I thought the point of "A" mode was that it would pick the correct shutter speed to achieve a good exposure. I definitely learned a great deal about using the camera, but I was pretty disappointed about how many were poorly exposed. Am I misunderstanding what the A mode is? I don't recall having this trouble with my AE-1P.

There were some shots that were underexposed, but mostly the problem seems to have been over exposure. Some of them I was able to salvage in Lightroom, but they are probably not suitable for larger prints anymore. Some were beyond repair. I'm guessing it may have been the subject matter. I do know that I've had an over exposure problem with other cameras in The Canyon. I always chalked it up to a crappy camera and expected better from the D80. Any ideas what I did wrong? Maybe I turned off a setting? The only setting I know I messed with was the auto ISO. I realize that this could affect exposure, but I thought it would just mean longer shutter speeds at f22 and above. I actually packed a tripod specifically so I could shoot at f22 and ISO 100.

Can anyone recommend a book or site that has photography instruction? I'm looking for the type of methods used in school? (ie discuss some theory then have an assignment that demonstrates that theory)

Would it help to post links to some of the pictures? I haven't finished going through them all. I took 3 2GB cards and used up about 2.8 of them

I think it was ~700 shots. It might take the weekend to get through them all.

 

[Towert7]

I wouldn't expect phenomenal images straight out of the D80 without the user getting familiar with it, but then again I wouldn't expect many of them to be lousy either.

The first thing you should know is that there are 3 different 'metering' modes on your camera.
Spot meter, center weighted, and matrix.

Matrix metering is Nikon's way of trying to get the best image for the lighting conditions. It's a very tough business, and it does some very complicated algorithms to produce the results it does. Having said that though, there are certain lighting conditions that will throw it off, ESPECIALLY when there are huge variations in lighting.

What you have to understand is that, most non-pro DSLR's have a compressed dynamic range compared to what your typical 35mm film will produce. I wonder if it's even more comrpessed then slides, such as velvia. If you up the contrast, this will become even more so.

So, you need to be mindful of the range of lighting you have in the picture.

Lets say you are taking a picture of a landscape in matrix metering mode. Best thing to do is take one test photo and see how the meter is interpreting the picture. Judge then whether it is underexposed, overexposed, or just right for what you want. Then you can adjust what matrix meter mode gives you by A few F-stops in either direction.

The other metering modes are much easier to predict compared to matrix metering.

In spot meter mode, you are metering off what is in the very center of your viewfinder. It will expose it to get the correct lighting for what a 10%(?) grey subject should be. It is VERY easy to predict what the picture will look like using spot metering just by what you point it to and what color it is, etc. This is very similar to the type of meter you'd find in an older camera.

Center weighted metering mode is in between these two. Good for when your main subject is near the center of the image. Some guessing still takes place though I think.

Again, in all three modes you can adjust the Exposure (called Exposure compensation EV).

Don't expect consistent results until you get familiar with the metering modes of your camera, and which to use when. Also, make a habit of taking a test photo in the lighting conditions first and see what it looks like, and then make your exposure corrections from there. That's the great thing about digital, you can take a test photo and instantly see it, and make any adjustments as needed.

Your camera should have come with a link to the nikon website with video tutorials on selected topics. Take a look at those here:
Nikon Imaging | Global Site | Digitutor

Very basic article, you probably already know this:
Nikon, Inc.

Ken rockwell article. Scroll down to exposure:
Nikon D80 Performance

 

[philodox]

Quote:

Originally Posted by dj_mocok /img/forum/go_quote.gif Shooting from ALL mechanical type of SLR must be fun!

That's what I'm hoping.

Anyone have any experience with film [negative] scanners? I was thinking that if I can find one that is inexpensive but performs well, I could use it to 'develop' my pictures rather than taking them in to get done. Then my only expense is the film itself. I have photoshop and a friend who knows how to use it, so all I really need is a recommendation on the hardware.

 

[philodox]

I'm sort of on the fence right now. The F2 is so cool, but I'm worried that if I get one it will break down and I'll be SOL. My other option is just to get a new generation film camera like the FM10. What would be the main differences between the F2 and the FM10? They would both likely cost me around the same [if I try to get a F2 in decent condition], and the FM10 will be brand new... which is a big plus.

 

[FrederikS|TPU]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Towert7 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Very basic article, you probably already know this: Nikon, Inc. Ken rockwell article. Scroll down to exposure: Nikon D80 Performance

Completely agree with your recommendations and of course read the manual I found the Nikon manual that is supplied with the D80 to provide a lot of nice insights into what the camera does in the different modes and what you can do with the calibration options.

 

[GTRacer]

I'd go for the F2 as the FM10 isn't what I'd consider a 'real' Nikon. Plus the 100% viewfinder means that you won't be getting any unexpected objects in the frame once the film is developed. Nikon F series cameras are built like tanks anyway, they'll take quite a bit of abuse before they kick it.