The Melos Modification Thread

[Computerpro3]

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikongod jahn's amp has nicer resistors. i dont think that the cap near the 2 realays is in the signal path at all. im pretty sure that this cap is just there to span the relays. i could be reading things incorectly though. please dont forget to count my melos in the moded melos's tally. we have 3 more than before now.

You are correct. Doesn't matter though, I eventually want to replace EVERY capacitor on the board. What happened was I needed another cap to push the order over $100 and that was a nice cheap cap that got it to like $101.3 or something, so I ordered it for the heck of it.

I do need to replace the resistors. Not as much information about that though - I assume I can just read the values off the bands on them and replace with nicer quality resistors of the same value?

Oh, and Jahn you're right about the "mean" Hakko - this thing is a BEAST

 

[Zanth]

Heh, ironic I suppose by the two main amps I use are back en vogue on the forums. Certainly the EAR HP4 will always be regarded as something special but unless one can find one used at a sweet price, the new price is pretty cost prohibitive to most (what...$5k USD retail..come on!) but right now there are more than a handful that have it or are buying into it and it has been fun to read about their adventures.

Now! The MELOS!!! The most gradiosest of all amps for metal Grados is back in action! Thanks to these new DIYer's we have some excitement in the maestrobating of the famed Melos. The Melos has EXCELLENT sound stock, but when modded it is legendary and not just for Grados. It is superb that folks are realizing this again. Sometimes the bug hits hard on Head-fi (far too often actually) and folks drop amps or phones and then swap in the FOTM only to realize that they don't likle this new system, not remembering how good their old one was, they keep searching and searching...only to come home to the greats they once sold off. Ah...the Melos, a true audio diamond in the rough, sometimes the deep rough, but to those that own one in good working condition congrats, 'tis truly a very special amp, and one that, when paired with an HP-1000 or PS-1 is easily on par with the greatest combos out there.

 

[Computerpro3]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zanth Heh, ironic I suppose by the two main amps I use are back en vogue on the forums. Certainly the EAR HP4 will always be regarded as something special but unless one can find one used at a sweet price, the new price is pretty cost prohibitive to most (what...$5k USD retail..come on!) but right now there are more than a handful that have it or are buying into it and it has been fun to read about their adventures. Now! The MELOS!!! The most gradiosest of all amps for metal Grados is back in action! Thanks to these new DIYer's we have some excitement in the maestrobating of the famed Melos. The Melos has EXCELLENT sound stock, but when modded it is legendary and not just for Grados. It is superb that folks are realizing this again. Sometimes the bug hits hard on Head-fi (far too often actually) and folks drop amps or phones and then swap in the FOTM only to realize that they don't likle this new system, not remembering how good their old one was, they keep searching and searching...only to come home to the greats they once sold off. Ah...the Melos, a true audio diamond in the rough, sometimes the deep rough, but to those that own one in good working condition congrats, 'tis truly a very special amp, and one that, when paired with an HP-1000 or PS-1 is easily on par with the greatest combos out there.

What's funny is that if you told me a year ago that I would ever spend more than $100 headphones, I would have called you a liar. If you told me six months ago I would own a Melos I would have laughed. If you told me eight weeks ago I would make a Maestrobator I would have had you checked into an asylum.

Yet it all happened. Head-fi is a strange, strange place.


BTW, I would like to personally thank Jahn, Nikon, Bozebuttons, MisterX, and StuartR (pics helped so, so much) and all the other people who I know I'm forgetting who endured my endless questions and helped me through this

 

[nikongod]

for replacing resisors, i have just been reading values and getting roughly the same part in a better part. im not really sure how well this is working because my order for tantaliums has not yet arrived, or even processed. i am making SLIGHT tweaks in some places based on experiences with other amps.

mostly a couple SMALL tweaks in resistance to imnprove how the mosfets and tubes get driven. changing from 2k to 1.8kohm.

something to note with the MAR "references" is the very odly wired plate resistors. a very weird configuration. i have not yet decided if i want to get the same "design" with better parts, or revert to the design as specced on the schematics and board.

edited/added:
set your iron to 600* or so. if im reading correctly, its at 750 and thats scarry hot. 600 should do you well, and yoru tips will last longer.

 

[Jahn]

I just wanted to respond to Zanth's post by saying "HELL YEAH!"

I haven't seen an exciting revival thread like this in a long time

 

[Computerpro3]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jahn I just wanted to respond to Zanth's post by saying "HELL YEAH!" I haven't seen an exciting revival thread like this in a long time

Well it's mostly thanks to you

I think the next step is to finish blackgating and then change out the resistors.

Quote:

set your iron to 600* or so. if im reading correctly, its at 750 and thats scarry hot. 600 should do you well, and yoru tips will last longer.

I was reading around and found a thread that said 700-750 is generally the proper temperature. Weird. I'll try lower next time, but this HGA Silver Solder is a bitch to melt.

 

[Computerpro3]

This thing sounds insane....it's been burning in all day while I've been doing work around the house. I just came back to it and listened to Billy the Kid by Aaron Copland on Telarc. This is one my reference recordings for detail as well as dynamics with a capital D.

Holy. Crap.

By far the biggest difference is in impact. If I close my eyes I can actually believe that I'm listening to an orchestra. The impact is that visceral. It's incredible...you hear this lone flute and then WHAM WHAM WHAM. Everything is a lot faster than it seemed to be before, and the bass is very tightly controlled (one of my pet peeves is flabby bass). As usual strings and woodwinds sound incredible. I'm usually one to point and shout "placebo" at people when they make comments like this, but I honestly believe that it's a difference that you cannot possibly miss if you A/B them side by side with an original one.

Assuming I can attend the meet, I will have a chance to prove this.

Excuse me while I go have an eargasm.

 

[Jahn]

I totally agree. Midori ripping into "Caprice in A Minor, No. 24" by Paganini? You gotta hear this! Pure dynamics and attack, the Melos can keep pace with virtuostic performances like a champ!

 

[nikongod]

i am amzed not so much by the impact which is impressive and makes my ears do weird shakes, but more by the details that this amp brings forward. wabbles in bass, fluctuations in voices (freddy mercury sounds steriotyppically gay sometimes) and all that good stuff. it also picks up on a few music splices.

between the impact and the deatail its not suprizing that this amp can make a man mad looking for one.

 

[Computerpro3]

in your opinion should I finish blackgating with the following caps (which would make every single cap on the board aside from the ones hotglued on replaced):

2x 4700uf 16v Blackgate Standard
2x 2200uf 35v Blackgate FK
1x 470uf 160v blackgate standard

Or should I grab a DACT first? Which will make the best improvement for the buck?

If I do go for the dact I will figure out way to still light up the balance meter even though it's non functional - it looks so vintage when its lit up!

 

[nikongod]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Computerpro3 in your opinion should I finish blackgating with the following caps (which would make every single cap on the board aside from the ones hotglued on replaced): 2x 4700uf 16v Blackgate Standard 2x 2200uf 35v Blackgate FK 1x 470uf 160v blackgate standard

i am all for the LV side. for the HV side you may think im crazy, but put the 470uf in place of the 1000uf (mine was a 1500uf actually) this is the last cap before the tubes, and the one most likely to make any change to the sound.
EDITED/ADDED:
if you look in my photo on page 5 or 6, its the cap thats missing

Quote:

Or should I grab a DACT first? Which will make the best improvement for the buck? If I do go for the dact I will figure out way to still light up the balance meter even though it's non functional - it looks so vintage when its lit up!

steppers are not terribly expensive on ebay. thanks to the koreans and all of that. mine was $50. i'd put it up aganst any pot that is stocked in any store.

i think that you can make the balance thingy stay lit even without the photentiometer. if you leve 2 of the wires connected, it will stay lit. i am 50 % sure its the 2 outside ones (since there are 4 possible combinations, this is actually good.) i was thourouly discussted with the photentiometer and just kind of cut stuff out a bit fast... i would probe them carefully with a meter and adjust the balance control on the photentiometer. the 2 that control the light will not vary as you adjust the balance.

 

[Computerpro3]

that seems like such a drastic reduction, wouldn't it hurt SQ? I assume they put a 1000uf cap for a reason...

Good idea about the multimeter thing. I'll def. do that.


edit: will the remote work with a stepper? No, right?

 

[nikongod]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Computerpro3 that seems like such a drastic reduction, wouldn't it hurt SQ? I assume they put a 1000uf cap for a reason...

HV amps run on quality more than quantity within reasonable limits. i have a 100uf film cap in that spot now.

in the case of cheap caps, a BIG cap is necessary to get the esr of a better smaller value cap.

this was prompted by my experience with the "elcheapo diy tube amp" which started as a kit. i replaced all of the disturbuingly cheap electrolytic psu caps with film of smaller values and it sounded awsome. i say sounded because i slavaged some parts for the melos from it.

edit:
im poretty sure that the remote will not work with a stepper.

 

[nikongod]

i am a idiot. its ok though because i fixxed it.

yes, i used poor grammar to emphasize my stoopidity.

sometime ago, when swapping the input caps about and testing the amp with NO input caps (bad idea, very bad) i jumpered across all of the caps. this was bad and worse. so i put the caps back in on the board on what i thought was the grounded triode side and "off-board" mounted the 2uf solens i slavaged from the interstage places.

i somehow got the caps in the wrong places on one of the tubes, and wound up with a cap feeding a cap, and the other triode grounded. this was bad. i fixed it tonight.

i also sorted out some shoddy grounding practices undertaken by someone who worked on the amp before i did. some the ground wires are now grounded to the pads which they belong soldered to, rather than to some odd resistor that happens to be in a nearby location...

on a plus side, i solder-sucked well enough that putting the cap back in wasnt a 15-miniute afair.

 

[hyamaiata]

May I ask, why did carlo stopped modding Melos amps?