[Soundsgoodtome]

Jj, since the minimeets I've learned that separating the digital circuits to another completely different wiring run as well as "capping" said devices with a conditioner (like a furman ac215a) and having the analog gear on a separate power run to the breaker has yielded good results. I only wish i could've ran both digital and analog circuits with 12 gauge, my digital side of power is only 14g and also powers 4x 10w led bulbs. I figured out of all the gear the speaker and headphone amps are going to be the most thirsty, hence the thicker wire.

It's actually an easy experiment with an extension cord if you know which outlets are in which lines. A matter of running an extension cord to an outlet on a different breaker.

 

[johnjen]

  JJ, thanks for taking the time to reply to my question.
 
At least what you're saying is consistent from what I've read on the internet - basically it's clear as mud.
 
Mostly trial and error, since nobody really seems to know.
 
I think your right, it's very complicated. Probably not even worth discussing because of too many viewpoints, and unknowns (ie. no answers to why this or that is happening, other than try this or that).
 
Cheers.

And if you REALLY want to throw a monkey wrench into the discussion take into account the fact that ground itself isn't 'constant'.
This fact was a huge concern back at the last century when the telegraph came onto the scene.
 
I've been researching this aspect and there were some who actually pulled power from the ground to run lighting and even a few telegraphs etc.
 
In today's view this isn't a commonly understood aspect of this topic.
 
JJ

 

[johnjen]

Jj, since the minimeets I've learned that separating the digital circuits to another completely different wiring run as well as "capping" said devices with a conditioner (like a furman ac215a) and having the analog gear on a separate power run to the breaker has yielded good results. I only wish i could've ran both digital and analog circuits with 12 gauge, my digital side of power is only 14g and also powers 4x 10w led bulbs. I figured out of all the gear the speaker and headphone amps are going to be the most thirsty, hence the thicker wire.

It's actually an easy experiment with an extension cord if you know which outlets are in which lines. A matter of running an extension cord to an outlet on a different breaker.

I can see where this would be a good thing to do, to separate the electronics that are digital from the analog signal gear.
 
If for no other reason than helping to minimize the digital noise generated by the circuitry from getting into the analog gear.
 
Propagation of this spurious noise, let alone it's generation in the 1st place seems to be significant in relation to the overall SQ delivered to our ears.
 
JJ

 

[Muziqboy]

For those that may be interested, here's a link http://www.decware.com/newsite/DECWARESOUND.pdf to an article about the science of sound written by Steve Deckert - the designer of my headphone amp.
 
He talks about the 432Hz Musical Grid. Very interesting and an eye opener.

 

[johnjen]

So a quick status report of my latest SMPS to LPS conversion project.
 
The LPS is up and powering my Mutec 3+ and has less than 1 hr of playing time, so a SQ report will have to wait till later.
 
I'm not sure who originated the idea that the 3+ uses 6.3 Vdc, but I measured the SMPS at 5.094Vdc feeding the mainboard.
 
So I set the voltage at 5.100Vdc and measured the current draw at 0.5350Amps while running with an AES signal passing thru.
 
One note of caution for anyone who wants to remove the SMPS from the mainboard.
 
The female XLR-3pin connector has a push to release 'button' that gets in the way of removing the board from the chassis.
This means actually being able to remove the SMPS daughterboard is not gunna happen until the button is removed (I couldn't figure out how) or it is bent out of the way (which means the end of the button breaks off, which is what happened to me).
This isn't a big deal for me but for some it would be 'better' to leave the SMPS in place and solder the LPS voltage wires to the header pins directly.
 
And unsoldering those header pins from the mainboard is not for the inexperienced either.
They are robust and don't unsolder easily.
 
But as projects go, besides these small hurdles, it was fairly straight forward.
 
And I'm just waiting for any shifts in SQ to give me an indication of the changes this mod makes.
 
JJ

 

[Muziqboy]

That's interesting because I did measure the voltage at 6.3v before proceeding to solder the 2 wires to the + and - header pins on the Mutec.
But I did measure the Mutec USB version and assumed the same voltages for the non-USB Mutec's so could be that the USB version is 6.3v and the non-usb is 5v which means I need a LPs with 5v to power up the 2 non-USB in my chain.

 

[Tand2016]

  So a quick status report of my latest SMPS to LPS conversion project.
 
The LPS is up and powering my Mutec 3+ and has less than 1 hr of playing time, so a SQ report will have to wait till later.
 
I'm not sure who originated the idea that the 3+ uses 6.3 Vdc, but I measured the SMPS at 5.094Vdc feeding the mainboard.
 
So I set the voltage at 5.100Vdc and measured the current draw at 0.5350Amps while running with an AES signal passing thru.
 
One note of caution for anyone who wants to remove the SMPS from the mainboard.
 
The female XLR-3pin connector has a push to release 'button' that gets in the way of removing the board from the chassis.
This means actually being able to remove the SMPS daughterboard is not gunna happen until the button is removed (I couldn't figure out how) or it is bent out of the way (which means the end of the button breaks off, which is what happened to me).
This isn't a big deal for me but for some it would be 'better' to leave the SMPS in place and solder the LPS voltage wires to the header pins directly.
 
And unsoldering those header pins from the mainboard is not for the inexperienced either.
They are robust and don't unsolder easily.
 
But as projects go, besides these small hurdles, it was fairly straight forward.
 
And I'm just waiting for any shifts in SQ to give me an indication of the changes this mod makes.
 
JJ

Hi JJ
 
Regarding the removal of the XLR-3 pin. I found this on Devialet Chat, post #246. Maybe it can help:
 
So I also modded my Mutec today and removed the internal SMPS and IEC inlet. One of the DC power leads that came with the PH is now soldered directly to the mainboard power input of the original internal PSU. This has taken me quite some time BTW, To remove and desolder the SMPS the entire board had to be removed from the chassis and thus I had to also remove all 10 nuts from the BNC connectors etc. etc. It also took me a lot of time to figure out how to remove the push lever of the female XLR receptor. Without this there would be no way to get the board out. Luckily I found a manual otherwise I would have never figured it out. http://www.neutrik.com/zoolu-website/med...es+chassis
 
 
http://devialetchat.com/showthread.php?tid=46&page=25
 
Best Tommy

 

[Muziqboy]

OK did a quick check just now and indeed, the non-USB Mutec is powered at 5vdc and USB Mutec is powered at 6.3vdc which means I could use that low noise LT3042 regulator to power up the non-usb version.

 

[johnjen]

  For those that may be interested, here's a link http://www.decware.com/newsite/DECWARESOUND.pdf to an article about the science of sound written by Steve Deckert - the designer of my headphone amp.
 
He talks about the 432Hz Musical Grid. Very interesting and an eye opener.

That was a very interesting look into the origins of our musical note structure.
 
Much to ponder there.
 
Thanks   JJ

 

[johnjen]

  That's interesting because I did measure the voltage at 6.3v before proceeding to solder the 2 wires to the + and - header pins on the Mutec.
But I did measure the Mutec USB version and assumed the same voltages for the non-USB Mutec's so could be that the USB version is 6.3v and the non-usb is 5v which means I need a LPs with 5v to power up the 2 non-USB in my chain.

Excellent!
 
And indeed clears up that bit of confusion.
 
I do wonder why the usb version runs at the higher voltage though.
A bit of a curiosity, that! 

 
JJ

 

[johnjen]

 
Hi JJ
 
Regarding the removal of the XLR-3 pin. I found this on Devialet Chat, post #246. Maybe it can help:
 
So I also modded my Mutec today and removed the internal SMPS and IEC inlet. One of the DC power leads that came with the PH is now soldered directly to the mainboard power input of the original internal PSU. This has taken me quite some time BTW, To remove and desolder the SMPS the entire board had to be removed from the chassis and thus I had to also remove all 10 nuts from the BNC connectors etc. etc. It also took me a lot of time to figure out how to remove the push lever of the female XLR receptor. Without this there would be no way to get the board out. Luckily I found a manual otherwise I would have never figured it out. http://www.neutrik.com/zoolu-website/med...es+chassis
 
 
http://devialetchat.com/showthread.php?tid=46&page=25
 
Best Tommy

Excellent!
Thanks for that link!
 
I saw that slot and stuck a small screwdriver into it but it never released the 'latch'.
 
So this means I can fix the broken push button.
 
KEWL!
 
JJ 

 

 

[Muziqboy]

  That was a very interesting look into the origins of our musical note structure.
 
Much to ponder there.
 
Thanks   JJ

 
I think he is 1 of those highly intelligent and advanced beings and the reason why he produces such wonderful sounding equipment.
 
So much musical soul in his amps.

 

[Muziqboy]

  Excellent!
 
And indeed clears up that bit of confusion.
 
I do wonder why the usb version runs at the higher voltage though.
A bit of a curiosity, that! 

 
JJ

 
Might be that the addition of the USB module board is why it uses a higher voltage.
I'm just guessing here.

 

[Muziqboy]

When I had the 6.3v LPS powering up the 2 Mutec (non-usb) and 1 Mutec USB, it did sounded good but seems like something was off to me, So I managed to dig up the old JAY's Audio 5v linear power supply that I had stashed away in storage and hooked that up to power the 2 Mutec (non-usb).
 
Now we are talking! The vocals are more powerful with clarity and just jumps right at you.
 
I was relieved that I did not mess up the 2 non-usb by over-powering it.

 

[johnjen]

   
Might be that the addition of the USB module board is why it uses a higher voltage.
I'm just guessing here.

Or perhaps that 'better' clock needs a higher voltage.
Just guessing as well…
 

  When I had the 6.3v LPS powering up the 2 Mutec (non-usb) and 1 Mutec USB, it did sounded good but seems like something was off to me, So I managed to dig up the old JAY's Audio 5v linear power supply that I had stashed away in storage and hooked that up to power the 2 Mutec (non-usb).
 
Now we are talking! The vocals are more powerful with clarity and just jumps right at you.
 
I was relieved that I did not mess up the 2 non-usb by over-powering it.

In theory the +5Vdc circuits can use 7.5Vdc (and higher in some cases).
 
It's interesting that even ≈1.3volts makes such a noticable SQ change.
 
And speaking of change…
 
My system is in the middle of blossom action, big time.
 
The top end has gained a whole new level of focus and inner details.
 
Cymbals snare drums and anything with top end sizzle now has additional details and has moar REALNESS.
Not to mention the mids are coming into finer and more articulate focus.
And the bottom end has gained additional refinement as well.
 
And this is still early in the settling in process.
 
WooooHoooo… 

 
JJ