The DIY'rs Cookbook

[Muziqboy]

Ok read it again and it is actually  5K T2AL250V. Markings on other end of fuse says JET.

 

[johnjen]

I just tried to search for the specs on these fuses and they are a Chinese brand with very little in english so I'll call focusright and get the info from them..
I always like to plan ahead and have a spare fuse on hand, just in case

 
But as I read it, the fuse is a 5k series, tube 2 AL type, rated at 250volts.
But that could be entirely wrong.
 
I'll find out tomorrow.
 
JJ

 

[johnjen]

So over on the XMOS thread a poster added a link to a 'universal' fuse code #'s and their meaning page.
 
Yeah it’s a 2 amp fuse…
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/803111/xmos-xu208-usb-bridges-the-latest-gen-has-arrived/2550#post_12648693
 
Which means the fuse is setup for a catastrophic failure and not for the load that the digital circuits present.
 
Which I figure is yet another factor in why these units sound great.
This fuse is nowhere near as much of a CP using a 2 amp slow blow fuse, instead of a 0.2 amp SB fuse.
And this is on a switching power supply.
 
I can understand the design decision in this approach.
 
 
JJ

 

[Benny-x]

There are still many Ethernet for audio tweaks around. I'm surprised there hasn't been any talk in here with the great benefits that fibre Ethernet provides over copper. You can use a device called an FMC (Fibre Media Convertor) that has standard copper, RJ-45 on one side (connect to your normal device) the fibre for the run between devices, then back in another FMC so that you can connect the normal Ethernet port on the other side to your other device.

Like the above mentioned idea of going optical out of the Focusrite RN3, this 100% isolates components as there's no copper for the nasties to travel on.

There's HUGE thread on it over at ComputerAudiophile, and if I were going with Focusrite Rednet products I'd definitely go the extra mile and put in some FMCs

 

[Soundsgoodtome]

I'm still working on getting the right settings on my computer for the rednet 3 but I think I'm unnecessarily chasing 192khz bandwidth as 98% of my music are Redbook and 96khZ.

I think I'll settle on 24/96 since my computers don't seem to keep up with 192. Now I need to figure how to output to toslink, can the r3 output to 8 toslink devices simultaneously? Gotta get reading the manual

 

[johnjen]

I'm still working on getting the right settings on my computer for the rednet 3 but I think I'm unnecessarily chasing 192khz bandwidth as 98% of my music are Redbook and 96khZ.

I think I'll settle on 24/96 since my computers don't seem to keep up with 192. Now I need to figure how to output to toslink, can the r3 output to 8 toslink devices simultaneously? Gotta get reading the manual

I think that 'distributing' the same signal to the other channels would be a s/w function.
My guess is it would be in RedNet control, but I don't recall reading anything about being able to do that.
 
But I have no hands on fussing, quite yet.

 
Oh yeah I did try to run the same music up and down the sample rates while comparing my new Toslink Optical cable to my tweako 2-WYRD setup.
The results were inconclusive.
Except that optical was more veiled (a bigger CP if you will).
 
 
JJ

 

[Soundsgoodtome]

  I think that 'distributing' the same signal to the other channels would be a s/w function.
My guess is it would be in RedNet control, but I don't recall reading anything about being able to do that.
 
But I have no hands on fussing, quite yet.

 
Oh yeah I did try to run the same music up and down the sample rates while comparing my new Toslink Optical cable to my tweako 2-WYRD setup.
The results were inconclusive.
Except that optical was more veiled (a bigger CP if you will).
 
 
JJ

I'm starting to think that the AES output via breakout cable and the SPDIF output is the only output you can use when using the DVS.. I need to actually get the time to read the manual here.

 

[johnjen]

I'm looking into either having a true 110Ω balanced AES rated cable made (or make one up myself) for the RN3 (DB25 connector to a 3 pinXLR) using hi-freq rated cable, for just one or 2 channels, not all 8.
Trying to track down a 'proper' DB25 connector is the stumbling block at the moment, what with so many choices.
Narrowing the choices down to an 'Audio' grade version is taking some time.
 
The wire and XLR connector are covered but that DB25 is taking its sweet time to be found.
 
JJ

 

[atomicbob]

I'm still working on getting the right settings on my computer for the rednet 3 but I think I'm unnecessarily chasing 192khz bandwidth as 98% of my music are Redbook and 96khZ.

I think I'll settle on 24/96 since my computers don't seem to keep up with 192. Now I need to figure how to output to toslink, can the r3 output to 8 toslink devices simultaneously? Gotta get reading the manual

Page 22 & 23 of the Rednet System User Guide will be good for your enlightenment. Welcome to virtual patchbays, which are quite common in Pro-Audio setups. You may route (patch) one source to many for distribution. It is how distribution takes place in very large setups, think stadium or outdoor concert systems with line arrays for audiences of 10,000 - 250,000. Will be looking forward to your thoughts on the performance comparison of SPDIF over coax vs optical.

 

[johnjen]

There are still many Ethernet for audio tweaks around. I'm surprised there hasn't been any talk in here with the great benefits that fibre Ethernet provides over copper. You can use a device called an FMC (Fibre Media Convertor) that has standard copper, RJ-45 on one side (connect to your normal device) the fibre for the run between devices, then back in another FMC so that you can connect the normal Ethernet port on the other side to your other device.

Like the above mentioned idea of going optical out of the Focusrite RN3, this 100% isolates components as there's no copper for the nasties to travel on.

There's HUGE thread on it over at ComputerAudiophile, and if I were going with Focusrite Rednet products I'd definitely go the extra mile and put in some FMCs

Thanks for the heads up on this.
It's good to know that we aren't the only ones crazy enough to jump off into the deep end…

 
Is there a particular place to start in that thread (or a post #) for that DIY ether-fibre-ether FMC?
 
I just got a piece of pristine toslink glass fiber cable (Lifatec) so this would be an easy additional test to make.
And I saw something like this in one of the pro audio catalogs, but didn't investigate any further.
And if there is a DIY'r version so much the better.
 
Thanks for this!
 
JJ

 

[johnjen]

  I'm looking into either having a true 110Ω balanced AES rated cable made (or make one up myself) for the RN3 (DB25 connector to a 3 pinXLR) using hi-freq rated cable, for just one or 2 channels, not all 8.
Trying to track down a 'proper' DB25 connector is the stumbling block at the moment, what with so many choices.
Narrowing the choices down to an 'Audio' grade version is taking some time.
 
The wire and XLR connector are covered but that DB25 is taking its sweet time to be found.
 
JJ

Update.
Atomic Bob aimed me towards Markertec and their custom cable capability.
 
Round one is a 2 channel DB25 to 3pin XLR RF rated plug, quoted at $77
 
I 'tweaked' the specs just a bit and hopefully will come back with a 'Better' more focused cable one we would prefer as a truly 'Tweako' cable.
 
And thanks Bob for that reference to the user guide.
That explains Danté's channel distribution system. 
 
And thanks for the prompt to read the manual BEFORE the unit shows up…

 
 
JJ

 

[atomicbob]

  Thanks for the heads up on this.
It's good to know that we aren't the only ones crazy enough to jump off into the deep end…

 
Is there a particular place to start in that thread (or a post #) for that DIY ether-fibre-ether FMC?
 
I just got a piece of pristine toslink glass fiber cable (Lifatec) so this would be an easy additional test to make.
And I saw something like this in one of the pro audio catalogs, but didn't investigate any further.
And if there is a DIY'r version so much the better.
 
Thanks for this!
 
JJ

The connector used on fiber media converters is usually different than toslink. You will need another glass fiber cable with the appropriate connector terminations, which Lifatec can make but they will want to confirm with you that you know what you are doing. Too many ask for the special termination only to find it isn't what they needed. The cables are special and non-returnable. Here is an example of a commercial FMC:
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabit-Ethernet-Fiber-Media-Converter/dp/B004FUUY52

 

[Benny-x]

  The connector used on fiber media converters is usually different than toslink. You will need another glass fiber cable with the appropriate connector terminations, which Lifatec can make but they will want to confirm with you that you know what you are doing. Too many ask for the special termination only to find it isn't what they needed. The cables are special and non-returnable. Here is an example of a commercial FMC:
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabit-Ethernet-Fiber-Media-Converter/dp/B004FUUY52

Bob's right on the part of your Lifatec cable totally not being compatible. Don't bother going down the road of getting them to customize one for you, the best glass, fibre optic cables are made by Corning and can be had cheap on eBay. Best place to get them and the best quality.
 
As far as the convertor Bob linked, that is an FMC, yes. I'll run back through the posts and find the most recent, "plug and play" configuration. That's the nice thing about that thread was that it's a tested configuration thread, so it's not just people reommending whatever, they're recommending setups they've tried. That's really important because due to stupid and untold issues, a lot of this stuff isn't compatible with each other. 
 
So, I'll get you a build list for it and post it in here in a bit. All in, for the convertors and the fibre run it'll be about $150-200. Not nothing, but not a terrible cost to have a look either. Depending on if you build a little more forward thinking in the beginning though, you could spend ~$300 and then have a setup that could scale for much less money.

 

[johnjen]

Well my RN3 arrived today.
It's all of 95% ready to go, but for 1 small issue that makes it so it won't work until it's resolved.
 
The firmware is updated, twice in the process of installing and setting up the various h/w and s/w parts in order to talk with each other.
 
Mine hangs on the 2nd firmware update.
I have tech support requests in already, and hopefully it will be solved sooner rather than later.
 
The ethernet link is up and functioning, in some ways, but enough as there are commands and responses happening, thus its working.
And I can monitor the ethernet traffic on this port which tells me its talking away…
 
The DVS (Danté Virtual Soundcard) is loaded and all of the controllers see all of the hardware bits so the dots are all connected except that what those responses are, aren't what is supposed to happen.
 
An adventure for sure…
 
Oh and while I was perusing the Focusrite site I ran across the listing of fuses used in all of their gear.
The rated fuse for this device (RN3) is .25amp (240V) and .5amp (120V), which is about what I would expect for values, given the power usage.
 
 
JJ

 

[johnjen]

  Bob's right on the part of your Lifatec cable totally not being compatible. Don't bother going down the road of getting them to customize one for you, the best glass, fibre optic cables are made by Corning and can be had cheap on eBay. Best place to get them and the best quality.
 
As far as the convertor Bob linked, that is an FMC, yes. I'll run back through the posts and find the most recent, "plug and play" configuration. That's the nice thing about that thread was that it's a tested configuration thread, so it's not just people reommending whatever, they're recommending setups they've tried. That's really important because due to stupid and untold issues, a lot of this stuff isn't compatible with each other. 
 
So, I'll get you a build list for it and post it in here in a bit. All in, for the convertors and the fibre run it'll be about $150-200. Not nothing, but not a terrible cost to have a look either. Depending on if you build a little more forward thinking in the beginning though, you could spend ~$300 and then have a setup that could scale for much less money.

Thanks for putting together that list.
I figure I won't be the only one who will explore this DIY'r project.

 
But what still gets me is that these digital systems are so sensitive to a variety of issues, electrical noise, jitter, complete electrical isolation, and other factors which have yet to be discovered.
It makes me think it's as bad as very low voltage analog signals being passed from device to device, and perhaps even more so.
 
I mean how many 'layers' are needed to deliver a 'pristine' signal such that the SQ is not messed with?
This stuff is enough to cause us to HAVE to join the Hair Club For Men…

 
JJ