Tantalum Resistors
May 18, 2002 at 3:20 PM Post #2 of 9
Umm, so don't use them, then.

Who/what convinced you that you need a single-digit temperature coefficient?
 
May 20, 2002 at 4:13 AM Post #4 of 9
tangent: Apparently, they sound fantastic. Go figure, tantalum sucks for caps but rules for resistors
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May 20, 2002 at 5:11 AM Post #5 of 9
Um, these people who make these reports, let's remember something: they're crazy enough to plonk down a few hundred dollars for a handful of resistors.

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Take these "cheap" $3 ones -- a Cmoy fully outfitted takes 13 resistors. A META42 takes 25. So, $40-75 to outfit a pocket amplifier with resistors. Doncha think you'd be inclined to think positively of an upgrade that doubled the cost of the amp?

I know, this is paranoid, and maybe even outright wrong. But, I just have to shake my head and wince -- $3 per resistor is still insane.
 
May 21, 2002 at 3:01 AM Post #7 of 9
Quote:

Originally posted by tangent
I know, this is paranoid, and maybe even outright wrong. But, I just have to shake my head and wince -- $3 per resistor is still insane.


Nothing personal but you have to remember that some people have the money to splurge. Also, please remember that the word "expensive" is relative for every individual. What may be expensive to you could be cheap to someone else.
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ps. I wouldn't buy them myself. But I understand that some people has money to buy them so I let them be. It's their money!
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May 24, 2002 at 1:26 AM Post #8 of 9
I never bought any tantalum resistors. However, I did build a discrete line amp for a DAC that called for use of two dozen of Vishay bulk metal foil resistors which go from 4 to 7 bucks US... I used them only in critical path but don't ask me if it was worth it or not since I couldn't compare it to the other case... It wasn't my design and the PCB I obtained had all resistors on 5mm grid, so I was kind of forced to use them.

I would use them again ONLY where they're very critical - such as I/V conversion of DAC and you need only 2 - or in critical path of the ultimate high end amps.

That said, there's definitely a difference if using the cheapest resistors and trying, say, Holcos which are not too expensive. It is probably advisable to build your favorite amp once with Vishay-Dales (which are ultracheap yet ended up the best in that japanese group's report that Tomo pointed out ages ago) and once with Holcos, and compare it to the Yageo or whatever standard metal films you used before...

The best rule is probably to use high end resistors only where justified. If you have ultralow noise opamp, it might be good to use ultralow noise bulk foil resistors around it too, otherwise the extra S/N you paid for will be wasted, or just get a cheaper opamp. If you use $40 per channel DAC chip, no sense in connecting it to discount bin resistor to do I/V... Same if you're making a voltage divider over very expensive ultraprecise voltage reference... But it's mostly overkill anyway, unless you have everyting else under control, like board layout, air flow in case etc. Just one of many variables ignored, and the whole thing will be screwed up and all the extra money went to waste...
 
May 27, 2002 at 4:56 AM Post #9 of 9
Hello,

I feel high precision carbon resistors like Riken sounds better. Of course, this is only when the resistors dont heat up.

I tried out generic tantalum resistors but ... It sounds close to my RN series resistors. ... I mean they are better but ... should not cost twice or thrice more than RN resistors. (RN series are like RN60, RN55 or something commercial equivalent of CMF series)

I was told long ago that, if your circuit isn't sensitive to stray inductance too much, I should try non-inductive wirewounds. This guy is pretty sick; made himself a stepping attenuator with Dale NS-5's. That should cost him like 500 dollars. ...

I guess you CAN really go crazy. I dunno how good they do however.

Tomo
 

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