[XFxGeforced]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsaavedra /img/forum/go_quote.gif Good you solved it! Didn't know these switches could be easily opened.

yep, just have to pull on the back (near terminals) casing on each side. It locks back in place too, it's hard to explain, but by looking at it youd figure out pretty quick.

anyway, success, after much frustration. 2 jacks broke during the construction, one from being a cheap jack and something inside breaking so the plug didnt go in anymore, the other from me bending a lead too far and it snapping. It came out good though, and already tested with my ibuds and cd player (guinea rig) and sounds fine on both jacks.

*Reason it looks so messy is because i had them all soldered up, then it turned out that the way the switch was pointing to was opposite from the plugs orientation, so i had to put the right plug on the left and vice versa. Green wire is 18 AWG silver coated copper, black with yellow/green stripe is the ground, and 24 AWG silver coated copper wire.

**The enclosure is a Hammond project box (1591ASBK) and I decided to go mini stereo on both since i mainly listen to things that would be that, and its easier to make just one rac>mini adapter, but not multiple mini>rca

*Thanks everyone!

 

[rsaavedra]

Nice box. Ah from your second pic in your last post I can see now how your switch opens. Mine would require me to bend some little metal legs it has though, probably not as easy.

 

[spendorspain]

Hi


I’m going to integrate a remote controlled stepped attenuator (a Welborne Labs kit) and an headphone amplifier (WNA) into the chassis of my amplifier (Copland ultralinear with a ECC83, two ECC82 and four EL34 valves). Believe it or not, there is enough space

. The output from the attenuator will go to the headphone amplifier or to the amplifier, which has enough gain so there is no need for a preamplifier stage. This would be an extra amplification step, however high quality the WNA amp is, and I assume it is better not to use the headphone amplifier as a buffer between the attenuator and the valve amplifier input (Do you think I’m right in this assumption?).
I’d like to keep the grounds of both amplifiers separated from input to output, as this way the integration of both in one chassis would be easier (this arrangement would be in fact two nearly independent amplifiers into one chassis).

For selecting the attenuator output I want (to headphones for private listening or to valve amp for loudspeakers) I’ll probably use a high quality sealed relay, with Au-clad AgPd contacts switching both signal and ground (two DPDT Omron G6A-234P-ST-US-DC5 or one 4PDT of the same type).

However, after reading Rickcr42’s post, I’m concerned about possible pops in loudspeakers and headphones when switching. Rick wrote:

“if you switch both the hot and ground signals be aware you may need to use a shorting rotary switch (make bfore break) or you can get a "pop" sound going from one position to another with your amp on.Can be loud enough to damage speakers or headphones depending on your listening habits and if the preceding stage has a large unbiased output capacitor (will build a charge when the ground is absent).”

My doubts are:

Is the problem Rick comments also applicable to relay switching?

Are the "pops" minimized if there isn’t any series capacitor before the relay?

Is there a way to eliminate pops?


Thanks in advance for your help

 

[rsaavedra]

My Dynahi pops when changing the volume in the attenuator (for now only, a resistor will fix this). But when switching sources with my ghettorade switchbox there's no popping at all actually.