Sunrise Xcape IE - damaged cable. suggestions?
Jan 15, 2012 at 6:21 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 5

marioman94

Head-Fier
Joined
Aug 8, 2011
Posts
53
Likes
10
The left channel on my xcapes stopped working because of cable damage at the strain relief on the plug. The build quality on these did not seem so bad but the problems I've had say otherwise.
 
Can I replace the plug on the xcapes? (does it have painted enamel like my cx400 did?) and what plug should I use? (since the cable is so thin..) would this work?: http://www.amazon.com/Neutrik-NYS231BG-3-5mm-Stereo-Black/dp/B0008JFHII/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1326668289&sr=8-2
 
I really want to fix them but I might just buy a pair of gr06 or something NOT with a straight plug. It seems that L-plugs are way superior in quality on smaller cables.
 
Jan 16, 2012 at 7:36 PM Post #2 of 5
I've used that straight Neutrik plug to repair an earphone plug - very nice quality and relatively easy to use because of the spacing of the solder locations. I used some wire insulation pulled over the earphone cable before soldering to create a strain relief where the cable exits the plug shell.
 
I've also used one of the Neutrik L-plugs shown in the "Frequently Bought Together" items below the main listing, and they're also very nice quality with a little bit of (rather clever) assembly required, but nothing difficult. The black rubber on the end of plug shell is a decent strain relief without the need for anything extra for that function.
 
I'd be surprised if the Sunrise cable did NOT use enameled wire, which also makes repair easier.
 
In my limited experience L-plugs and straight plugs each have their own benefits, liabilities, and failure frequency. Quality seems to be more a function of the manufacturer and the nature of the cable itself. The strain relief, how you use/abuse and store IEMs, and the location of the socket on your DAP would be better indicators of cable life than straight versus L-plugs.
 
Feb 1, 2012 at 8:10 PM Post #3 of 5
bump. I haven't bought any plugs yet as I've been enjoying my full headphones lately.
 
Today I stripped the end of the xcape wire and found SIX wires unlike the 4 I expected. There are red, blue, and green wires, then red striped/blue striped wires, then a copper ground wire. I'm lolconfused what goes where, can anyone help me out?
 
Feb 1, 2012 at 9:41 PM Post #4 of 5


Quote:
bump. I haven't bought any plugs yet as I've been enjoying my full headphones lately.
 
Today I stripped the end of the xcape wire and found SIX wires unlike the 4 I expected. There are red, blue, and green wires, then red striped/blue striped wires, then a copper ground wire. I'm lolconfused what goes where, can anyone help me out?



The IE seem to have a crap build. I've had mine for 6 months, and something must have happened, because they're not as sharp anymore, I can hear static and junk now. And I took excellent care of them. 
 
Feb 2, 2012 at 12:44 PM Post #5 of 5
Quote:
bump. I haven't bought any plugs yet as I've been enjoying my full headphones lately.
 
Today I stripped the end of the xcape wire and found SIX wires unlike the 4 I expected. There are red, blue, and green wires, then red striped/blue striped wires, then a copper ground wire. I'm lolconfused what goes where, can anyone help me out?


That is wierd!
 
I would only expect three wires (including ground) on a non-phone or non-balanced IEM, since there are only three contacts in the plug. Red is always right channel connected to the middle contact ("ring") of the plug, and green (as I recall) is usually the left channel connected to the the tip section. The copper ground connects to the upper section ("sleeve")  on a TRS plug, and the upper ring on TRRS. Blue was the mic wire on the MEElec M9P cable that I repaired and connected to the sleeve in that TRRS.
 
Here's the Wikipedia link describing TRS connectors, including some discussion about TRRS plugs (the four connector version). And here's a picture with nomenclature:
 

 
I would suggest using an ohmmeter on the old connector to figure out which of those many wires connect to which tip section. Since the plug has failed, at least one of those wires will measure "open", although you might be able to get a measurement by wiggling the wire segments. If not, you'll have to use process of elimination, and maybe some trial and error soldering to determine which combination works.
 
 
 
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top