Suggestions on finishing wood
Jun 6, 2004 at 9:24 AM Post #16 of 25
Pigmode makes a good point. Since these shelves are pre-assembled, it will be a lot of work to sand/steel wool all the corners and edges etc. I don't know much about oil finishes. I used several coats of Danish wood oil to finish a sauna I once built, and it left an oily residue for a couple of weeks until it soaked well into the cedar. I imagine the oil Pigmode is speaking of is stable, but you definately don't want a finish that will be soaked up by your cardboard album jackets. IMO, one of the easiest and best methods of finishing wood is to have someone else do it.
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Jun 6, 2004 at 10:02 AM Post #17 of 25
There is a quick and easy way to get that shine. You put a couple of coats of polyeurethane, using 0000 steel wool and cleaning with tack cloth between coats. Final step is to use a good furniture polish spray. Not Endust or the crappy stuff like that. I can't remember the name of the spray, but you can get it at a woodworkers store. like Rockler. It came in a light tan colored can.

-Ed
 
Jun 6, 2004 at 2:22 PM Post #19 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by genetic
Seems we are colletively devoted to making him regret his decision....
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Amicalement



You are, I do.
 
Jun 6, 2004 at 8:21 PM Post #20 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by JMT
Wow, I didn't realize that finishing these things would be so involved. I would like as nice a finish as I can manage, but understand too that I am not a woodworker and that it is unlikely that I will get a "professional" finish with my limited woodworking skills and environment.

Pig, I would appreciate your explanation. Thank you.



This finish is do-able, and is a hybid between the beauty of oil and the durability of varnish. I recommend 6 to 8 coats so that the pores get properly filled for durability and stain resistance.

Ingredients: Equal parts of pure linseed oil, gloss spar varnish, and turpentine.

Mix enough in a sealable container for a couple of days application--one coat a day, or in your locale, you can apply a coat in the morning, and a coat in the afternoon.

The danger here is if the finish starts to go off (tack) before you finish wiping off/ evening the coat. The result will be lint being pulled off your rag--not good. Subsequent coats will go off sooner, so you must work smaller areas than with the first coat. Your cabs are seperated into panels so it is easy to work in sections.

Each subsequent coat will fill the pores more completely, and will get you closer to a finished look.

Use one rag for applying, and another rag (you may need 2) for wiping the finish off. I like to use 100% cotton tee shirts. You'll end up going through a bunch of rags for the overall process. You must let the finish sit for 5 to 12 min. (this will vary according to the humidity in your locale and the coat you are working on) to allow it to soak into the wood. Again, monitor the tackiness and the area you are working in order to avoid the lint problem mentioned above.

If you wipe the finish off after say, 5 to 7 min., you will avoid the lint problems, and you can gauge from there how much area to work at a time. Since you are thereby allowing less soak-in time, you may want to add a coat or two over all. Of course, each subsequent coat will soak in less than the one before.

Spread the first coat fairly judiciously and evenly, and wipe it off completely and evenly. Pay attention to edges and corners to avoid build up. Wipe in the direction of the grain. For the insides of the boxes, wipe along the inside (vertical/ horizontal) corners first (against the grain) then work the panels with the grain, making sure you go right up to the inside corners.

Work out a strategy for the sections that you will work to make the job easier. You will most likely be moving the cabs into different positions as you work different areas. Also, you may have to apply certain areas a couple of hours later, because access will be limited because of freshly applied finish in ajoining areas.

The first coat will see a lot of soaking into the wood, and after a few minutes you may see an unevenness in the coat because the natural grain structure of wood is itself uneven, so just apply a little more finish in those areas before the final wipe.

Work fast and accurately. Have confidence in what you are doing, as this is not too difficult.

Don't worry about your work environment--if it is relatively dust free that is good enough. You'll need decent ventilation because of the turpentine.

A while back, I posted some pics of a CD shelf I made using this finish. I only did 4 coats, and it looks great, but I wish I had applied a few more coats.

EDIT: When finished, spread your used rags flat in a safe area, and let them cure in that position to avoid the possibility of spontaneous combustion (this goes for all oil finishes).

Also, I do not like the look of stains--this finish will give you an attractive warm look to birch.

If this sounds too involved for you, I have another alternative.
 
Jun 6, 2004 at 9:59 PM Post #21 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by pigmode
This finish is do-able, and is a hybid between the beauty of oil and the durability of varnish. I recommend 6 to 8 coats so that the pores get properly filled for durability and stain resistance.

Ingredients: Equal parts of pure linseed oil, gloss spar varnish, and turpentine.


The danger here is if the finish starts to go off (tack) before you finish wiping off/ evening the coat.

Use one rag for applying, and another rag (you may need 2) for wiping the finish off. I like to use 100% cotton tee shirts. You'll end up going through a bunch of rags for the overall process.

You'll need decent ventilation because of the turpentine.



Very good advices. I used a similar recipe for my 40X84 table ( Replacing linseed oil by Tung oil). One coat per day during 3 weeks...
I will make two observations. One: don't go slowly when applying this kind of mix. Two: you will need more than decent ventilation, so please don't do it in your basement....

Amicalement

P.S. OUPS... I SUPPOSE THAT YOU WONT TRY TO STAIN ANYMORE... BECAUSE TURPENTINE AND PRIOR STAINING WILL RESULT IN....
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IF YOU WANT TO USE THIS METHOD YOU'LL HAVE TO ADD THE COLORATION IN THE MIX!!!
 
Jun 7, 2004 at 4:53 AM Post #22 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by genetic
Very good advices. I used a similar recipe for my 40X84 table ( Replacing linseed oil by Tung oil). One coat per day during 3 weeks...
I will make two observations. One: don't go slowly when applying this kind of mix. Two: you will need more than decent ventilation, so please don't do it in your basement....

Amicalement



I recommended linseed oil (pure) in this case to lend a warmer color to the wood. I also like pure tung oil, but for darker woods such as Cherry etc. Tung oil has a cooler tint.
 
Jun 7, 2004 at 11:09 AM Post #23 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by pigmode
I recommended linseed oil (pure) in this case to lend a warmer color to the wood. I also like pure tung oil, but for darker woods such as Cherry etc. Tung oil has a cooler tint.


I completely agree with you. My table is made of solid Cherry. The main problem is that we dont know at what final color JMT is aiming.
I don't know if he will catch the «wood mania» after this. I hope so.

Amicalement
 
Jun 7, 2004 at 1:12 PM Post #24 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by genetic
I completely agree with you. My table is made of solid Cherry. The main problem is that we dont know at what final color JMT is aiming.
I don't know if he will catch the «wood mania» after this. I hope so.

Amicalement



Well, I just wanted to enhance the natural grain and color of the birch and put a nice smooth finish on it at the same time. I began the process yesterday with some Minwax clear gloss polyuerethane, a fine grit sanding sponge, and some tack cloth. It was very warm here yesterday so I was able to apply two coats, and so far I am very pleased with the results. I plan on continuing the process today. Hopefully I can get one completed by midweek....then only two more to go.
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Jun 7, 2004 at 1:51 PM Post #25 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by JMT
Hopefully I can get one completed by midweek....then only two more to go.
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And it will be more satisfying because you'll be the one who did it. Be patient some of our «projects» have taken years of research before buying the first PMP of wood....
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Amicalement

P.S. One exemple is THE table we have now. We made an exact replica in Cherry (40X84) of the one you can find in Fine Woodworking (June 1998, No. 130, p. 80).
 

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