They say darkening or "greening" the edges of a CD is supposed to stop the occurrence of laser light bouncing around inside the plastic walls of a CD and making its way back into the laser unit, interrupting the steady bitstream with an extra, erroneous reflection that isn't part of the normal reflection pattern of the laser moving across pits. The problem with the idea is that light moves so fast that if this could
ever happen, it would be happening on every single bit and the medium wouldn't work at all.
The speed of light is roughly 300 million meters per second, which means that light can cross the distance of a CD about 2.498
billion times a second. The rate of the PCM bitstream that the laser reads is 44.1 KHz, 16 bit, or 44,100 packages of 16 1's and 0's per second. This means that while the laser is busy reading
one bit of audio information, the laser technically could bounce across a 12 cm surface over 3,500 times. Running your finger across the edge of a disc will reveal that CD's are not even close to geometrically perfect. If a laser were to bounce around randomly in there a few dozen times it would be bound to hit one of the innumerable distorted areas of the prismatic CD plastic and be refracted in multiple directions. If that laser can traverse 12 cm (the width of a CD) over 3,500 times
per bit (and it would actually bounce many, many more times considering CD's have a hole in the middle), that would mean there's a more than excellent chance that within less than one sample's time, the laser of a CD player would turn the CD into a solid glowing disc of feverishly complex laser reflections and refractions, negating the laser's ability to determine whether it's seeing pits or not, and destroying the bitstream before even one full second was heard.
Alright, forget all that. Let's pretend that physics don't apply and we have to test this in other ways.
A random flash of laser light back into the pickup would not be of the exact same quality of light as the laser bouncing back from a mirrored (reflected) or pitted (diffused) area of the aluminum, plus it wouldn't fall in time with the 44.1 KHz clock system, which means it would be seen by the player's DAC as an error and corrected before being turned into an analog signal. But according to this article (which also covers the point I made above, but without the math), marking the edge of a CD produces no difference in the number of errors when the DAC is hooked up to a digital error counter.
The first six paragraphs of this are basically hearsay, but then it gets good:
http://www.snopes.com/music/info/greening.htm
Of course, the guy who performed the tests chose to use a flat black marker instead of a green one because opaque black is *gasp*
far more absorptive at all wavelengths than the semi-transparent green paint marker that is usually used, and I'm sure some audiophiles will discount his tests because of that.
Anyway, if this doesn't convince you, nothing will. The
only elements of a CD that can be better than any other CD are how flat the surface is (for reduced detectable errors), how well the dye in a CD-R responds to the "burning" process, and the resistance of the metal to oxidation. It's true that gold
is more oxygen-resistant than aluminum, so those gold discs are much less likely to experience the "laser rot" effect of oxidized metal. And it's also true that extremely high quality control, like the controls used by the factories that make JVC's XRCD's and those fancy gold discs, could result in a surface with less imperfections to allow for better laser tracking, and therefore less error correction. So if you're burning a master to send off to a duping plant, or if you have some piece of data that
needs to last as long as possible and you can't store it any other way than on a CD for some reason, get a gold disc. Otherwise, hell, save a boatload of money and buy some discs made by Taiyo Yuden or one of the other companies with a good rep. The good reputation comes from their assembly lines making discs with highly readable surfaces and good structural integrity, meaning you're getting most if not all of the benefit of one of those gold discs at a fraction of the price, and you won't even have to explain yourself to your non-audiophile friends.
You could chance it and assume the dye in black CD-R's responds to burning in an inherently better way than the standard green-looking CD-R dye does, but I have never seen any evidence that actually supports this other than the advertising copy on the outside of CD wrappers. And if there was a difference, it would be something far, faaaaar less detectable than giving a "warmer" sound to a PCM bitstream.
Anyway, if you hear better sound after greening or an altered tonal balance from black CD's, that's perfectly legit. Just know that the stage at which the difference is happening is the most important, influential component of all: the transducer in your mind.