[cyrian]

the wires wires? lol

i wish it was this simple with the zune dock...

 

[threEchelon]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyrian /img/forum/go_quote.gif the wires wires? lol

Yeah, yeah.

Did I answer your question in my last post? I'm not exactly sure what you were asking?

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyrian; what is involved in makind an ipod line out dock?

P.S. - Firefox has spell check.

 

[cyrian]

oh shush...

yes you answered my question, i'm trying to figure out how to do a zune one too, making an ipod one for my girlfriend too, so i was just checking on that...

 

[TzeYang]

Quote:

Originally Posted by amb /img/forum/go_quote.gif For inside amplifiers, I use standard stranded copper hookup wire. For small signal and low current applications, I use 22 or 24 AWG. For AC or power wiring, I use 18 AWG. For high power stuff (i.e., in speaker power amps), I might use something thicker yet. For audio interconnects, I use Belden 8451 or 9452 dual conductor 100% foil shielded cables. The shield wire is connected to the "ground" conductor on the output end only, which means that the cable is directional. The choice of these cables is for their superior shielding characteristics and excellent sound. For digital coaxial and composite video interconnects, I use Belden 9221 or 8216 braid shielded coaxial cables. These cables are characterized by very low capacitance and is thus suitable for use in high frequency applications. I also use these cables as audio interconnects where long runs are a necessity and where induced noise interference is not a major problem. All of these Belden cables I use are slim and flexible, making cable routing very easy. In addition, they all feature very thin stranded copper conductors. I am very pleased with their performance as used in my system and I don't think high-end cables costing 100 times as much as I spent on these would offer any further advantage. I use mostly Switchcraft and Neutrik metal RCA plugs for these interconnects. For speaker cables, I use Monster Cable products. I believe that minimizing the cable impedance (and maintaining a high effective amplifier damping factor) is of paramount importance. The heavy gauge Monster Cable, with their copious thin strands and flexible jacket fit the bill nicely. All my speakers and amplifiers use gold plated banana plug connectors, which offer good contact surface area as well as being easy to plug/unplug. All my headphones have their stock factory cables and connectors. Nothing particularly boutiquey or exotic...

thank you very much!!!


I've never tried anything expensive for cables before, but I usually just use normal solid copper wires for my internal wiring. However, i do find them turning dark some time later if exposed to the air for some time. Oh well, oxidation happens quickly for higher purity coppers.

Anyway, is tinted AWG22 stranded, twisted, teflon coated wire recommended for wire use? It adds a little bit of resistance due to the tinted layer but on the bright side it prevents the wire from oxidation.

 

[mb3k]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yes. You may find PCB's with through-holes that won't accomodate 20 AWG. 22 gauge is just about the limit that's almost guaranteed to fit everywhere. Of course, there's no reason you can't use bigger gauge for power wiring and other p2p stuff.

I have a bunch of 20awg stranded wire from Navships and it seems to barely fit the output holes on the CKKIII.
If you're in for the looks, then 20awg tends to appear more beefy, 22awg is a nice size.
Navship's stranded silver plated wire stays in the shape you form it just like solid wire. Stay with stranded and you'll be happy.

 

[amphead]

As far as sound quality goes, I have had reasonable success with stranded 20/22 awg teflon/ high temp wire. I don't know what it is tinned with, but its either tin or silver. I get my wire locally at a surplus shop(HSC). If you have access to wire from a surplus store, you can run your hand on the wire roll. Teflon is very slippery to the touch!