[Sirfoxx]

Hello!

I recently picked up a minty pair of stanton sixty's with the original box and the tone controller. The seller claimed they worked, but I had no way of testing them when I picked them up. Cosmetically they look great (will get pics later) however, the left side needs some help.

The stantons use a weird dual driver as seen here (http://www.just-hifi.com/A-Stanton-Dynaphase-60-Project_10481765.html) and the "woofer" speaker doesn't work on the left side. Checking it with a DMM shows an open circuit.

How should I go about fixing this? I know a disassembly is in order, but I am unsure on how to approach this. I've never successfully disassembled a speaker, and I assume the coil has a break in it somewhere, but if I find it, I don't know how to fix it.

Also, the capacitors in mine are 100% shot. They are a non-polarized 47uF cap. Left side reads 74uF and the right side pegs my meter at 200+uF. Any tips on what replacements I should use? Can a polarized cap be used here or does it have to be non-polarized?

 

[Sirfoxx]

Well, decided to carefully cut the cone out. Figured it's already bad, can't do much worse to it. Found that the coil is partially vaporized. Makes me curious what happened and how the other drivers are still good. The two strands for the + / - arent there. It's just an outline of them :/

 

[GREQ]

I can only guess that it was fed with a faulty amplifier, or was abused at high volumes for an extended period of time.
It's possible the amp had a faulty resistor which protected the other side from being fried, as faulty resistors either create an open circuit or drastically increase the impedance.

 

[Sirfoxx]

Just as an update--

I purchased these to use a replacement. Unfortunately I cannot find another 1-way paper 3.5" driver to use as a replacement. This one is slightly shorter than the original speaker, so theoretically after cutting the ears off and removing the protector lip, it should fit within the cup.

I went with these because the mfg has the measurements of the speaker posted in the user manual. The original speaker comes in at 1.5" depth, and this one is ~1.3". As long as there's room in the can for the magnet, these should be a drop in replacement. Though, with the piece in the middle, the original stanton tweeter may have to get removed as well.

https://www.customsounds.com/shop/coaxial-car-speakers/hertz-dcx87

 

[Sirfoxx]

Final update--

Got the speakers in the mail. The side with the blown driver was the first to get retro-fitted. I had to pry out the stanton tweeter to make room for the hertz speaker. After using a knife and making a cross hatch pattern in the plastic where the speaker sits, I used some 1-minute epoxy (all I had on hand) and glued the speaker in. I also took the opportunity to block off the ports on the cans based on others advice using knead epoxy. As for the other speaker, I wanted to compare new against old, so I just replaced the cap and popped the two back into the cans. Comparatively, they were very similar in my opinion. The stanton speaker was quieter though due to it being 8ohm and the hertz 4ohm. Seeing as I didnt want a volume difference, I popped the stanton speaker and tweeter out and installed the 2nd hertz speaker.

I downloaded an equalizer onto my computer and found that turning the lows and highs up and leaving the mids flat resulted in the best sound in my opinion. Once you add the mids, you loose the punchyness of the lows and the highs get kinda dull. Overall, I think it was a decent upgrade.