Speaker cable advice needed
Jul 27, 2001 at 9:57 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 12

dhwilkin

Headphone audiophiles are practically the stuff of legend.
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Hi guys, I've ordered a set of 5 ceramic Norh 4.0s for a home theatre system. There'll also be a sub-woofer to be decided on in a few days. However, I need some suggestions on what speaker cable I should get? I really don't want to spend over $200 on enough for every speaker and the sub, so I know I'm kinda limited. I think I'll need 4 5' runs for the front speakers and sub, and 2 15' runs (maybe 25', depending on wire arrangement) for the rear speakers.

And please do NOT suggest DIY, I have neither the time nor inclination for it.

Oh, and I'd really like it if the cables could come pre-terminated in banana plugs or spades. Thanks!
 
Jul 27, 2001 at 11:35 PM Post #3 of 12
I would also suggest the Q10. I am using it now in both my systems, and it is extremely good. In my main system it has replaced the much more expensive Kimber Bifocal XL.
 
Jul 28, 2001 at 12:34 AM Post #5 of 12
Hydra - A1 Speaker Cable

128_1.JPG


Here's the specs :

Hydra
A1 cable
Your stereo system, like most things, is greater than the sum total of its parts. All of your components work together in concert to produce music that transcends transistors and capacitors. But an audio system goes far beyond components. Connecting your system requires as much consideration as one would put into purchasing a Turntable or Amplifier. Our new line of Hydra cable offers quality construction at an unbelievable price.

Hydra states that their mission is to provide cables for lovers of music, and They have gone to great lengths to provide outstanding cable.

Hydra A1 Speaker Cable:

Test data

Capacitance between polar: 0.13~0.15 nF/3M
Resistance of Positive polar: 0.051~0.054Ù/3M
Inductance of Positive polar: 6.0~6.4 mH/3M
Resistance of Negative polar: 0.051~0.053Ù/3M
Inductance of Negative polar: 6.0~6.4 mH/3M

Characteristics

Uses virgin LITZ WIRE: Durable and runs better sound.
Inside Insulation: Uses rubber of nipple. Low inductance, and tone is balanced & clear.
Out jacket use PE corrugated tube plus braid for better resonance.
Hydra Cables are put through 8 hours of high power run in: The tone becomes clear & balanced. This makes your break in period shorter.
The Expression of tone throughout is balanced, clear & beautiful.
Hydra will work well in a large or small system.

you can get it here : http://www.needledoctor.com
 
Jul 28, 2001 at 12:35 AM Post #6 of 12
The Q-10 looks pretty good, but remember my spending limit (which I really can't go over) is $200. I could get the Q-10 for the front two speakers, but then I'd have to use pretty cheap cable for all other channels, including the center and sub. Wouldn't that make the sound noticeably less coherent during movies w/ 5.1 surround?
 
Jul 28, 2001 at 12:39 AM Post #7 of 12
KR..., I'm trying to go to that site, but IE keeps locking up everytime I go there.
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Oh well, I've been meaning to check out the latest Netscape, maybe that won't crash on it.
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UPDATE: OK, the latest Mozilla loads the page, good. Let's see... Hydra... Hydra... found it... 6' pair = $470...
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Umm, no. Way too expensive for my budget.
 
Jul 28, 2001 at 12:44 AM Post #8 of 12
While I'm checking out suggestions, are the MIT T4 speaker cables any good?
 
Jul 28, 2001 at 1:11 AM Post #9 of 12
I have the MIT T6 in a bedroom setup and they work nicely. I also have MIT T2 biwire in another setup that also sounds good, although I haven't really compared it to anything else. So I haven't heard the T4 but I bet it's good for the price. That said, system matching is important and I don't know anything about your speakers. I'm using the MIT on NHT speakers.
 
Jul 28, 2001 at 5:14 AM Post #10 of 12
I've recently started reading Audio Asylum, and people suggest that you buy simple 12-gauge speaker wire for surround speakers. There's really no need, according to them, for expensive speaker cable for surrounds because of the little attention your receiver gives them. I also doubt you need high-quality cable for your subwoofer.
 
Jul 28, 2001 at 2:58 PM Post #11 of 12
Yeah, I posted over at AudioAsylum as well (the more opinions, the better). I think I'm convinced I don't need great wire for the rear speakers. But I do need great wire for the front three speakers (right, left, center). I'm still not sure about the sub, though.
 
Jul 31, 2001 at 9:47 PM Post #12 of 12
Quote:

Originally posted by dhwilkin
Yeah, I posted over at AudioAsylum as well (the more opinions, the better). I think I'm convinced I don't need great wire for the rear speakers. But I do need great wire for the front three speakers (right, left, center). I'm still not sure about the sub, though.


Hi dh,

I have experienced good results with Kimber Kables range of cables over the years and given their sonic reputations have been thoroughly proven by many satisfied users, I therefore think it is a good base to consider. No, I do not work for Kimber, but a end user of their cables for many years.

Additionally, I too agree with Dan G's comments about using inexpensive cables for the surrounds and sub(s).

So, what about considering this suggested permutation for starters;

Front Left and Right = KK 8TC and if you wish to, bi-wire using 8TC (Low Freq) and 4TC (High Freq).

Center = 8TC ... and if your center is also bi-wirable, use 4TC for the HF and retain 8TC for the LF.

Surrounds = If cable lengths are in excess of 5 meters, suggest you consider using the relatively inexpensive 8PR.

Sub = 8PR.

As you can note, using the PR series of KK for the surrounds and sub is plausible and certainly far more cost effective when long runs are involved.

Good luck anyway,
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