Sound Cards, SPDIF and cables
Jan 24, 2006 at 8:21 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 31

epion2985

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I am getting an external DAC and I wanted to get Creative X-Fi card but I have a conectivity question. The SPDIF in/out optical and coax are not on the card but either on the 5.25" bay controll pannel, or an external box. I was going to get a nice cable ( http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/IDL1001.5M/ ) but then i started thinking well thats all wonderfull but whats the quality of the cables connecting the card to the 5.25" bay pannel / external box.

So what is the quality, doesnt look that great from looking at the stuff. Can one buy better cables to connect the card to 5.25" bay pannel / external box?
 
Jan 24, 2006 at 8:39 AM Post #2 of 31
Actually, the X-Fi does have a SPDIF output on the card itself. You can set that jack to be used as a digital out in the driver settings and then use a 3.5mm SPDIF cable to connect it to a DAC.
 
Jan 24, 2006 at 1:30 PM Post #4 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by epion2985
You mean a 3.5mm sterio to SPDIF cable like this?

http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/RCA-mini-spdif.html

What is the best way to go about connecting your sound card to your external dac?



The BEST way to connect a soundcard to a external DAC is via optical. Unfortunately, the Creative X-Fi only allows it with the external break out box.

Also, the creative x-fi digital mini out jack, is also the mic input jack, and line-in jack, so you have to choose what you want to use it for.
 
Jan 24, 2006 at 4:33 PM Post #5 of 31
Yes to that connector cable - mini jack mono on one end, and RCA connector for the other end. I used that configuration until recently. An older soundblaster card had come with that adaptor which I was using.

On the XFi you need to adjust the "mode" to "Audio Creation" and switch the "multi-jack" to spdif - digital out. Using this mode you can select the 44.1 mhz out as well.

Worked fine for me. I ended up getting a 1212m and moving my XFi to the house to run my home computer.
 
Jan 25, 2006 at 7:05 AM Post #6 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by Asmo
The BEST way to connect a soundcard to a external DAC is via optical. Unfortunately, the Creative X-Fi only allows it with the external break out box.

Also, the creative x-fi digital mini out jack, is also the mic input jack, and line-in jack, so you have to choose what you want to use it for.



Not really. There has been so much debate over Toslink vs Coax and in the end neither is better nor worce.

As merlin put it very well:

I too did my tour of duty in college as a EE (does that make us HT people GEEKS?!!).

Digital devices are capable of creating exact duplicates of their stored master. This means that bit by bit is transferred from source one to source two. So using our Home Theater example, the interconnects between a DVD digital out, and a Dolby Digital Decoder digital in, should not make an audible difference in the perceived sound.

Why? In computers, when a signal is sent, a parity bit is used to assure the information sent was received successfully (and the data was unaltered). In the event that the data was altered or corrupted, the receiver requests that the data be retransmitted. In the case of streaming audio, where time plays an issue, buffer memory is used so that the device has time to resend the information without a sound drop out. If the resend takes too much time (or requires multiple resends) and it exceeds the storage space of the buffer, the sound completely drops out.

While I'm willing to entertain ideas about quality and type of cables making a difference (like optical vs coax), I haven't heard or seen an evidence that has made me think that there is. In fact, when dealing with timing and distance issues, optical cables would seem to have the advantage.

Understand, I am only referring to the 100% digital portion of home theater where the digital source can be re-sent in the event of data corruption. In analog portions of Home theater (speakers and analog inputs/outputs) I believe that cables do not only impact the quality of the sound, but character of the sound as well.

As for the inference that a "Paperclip or coat hanger" would be sufficient, I would disagree. If the transport medium (the paperclip) caused enough signal loss that the DD decoder was rarely able to get the correct data, you would get audio drop outs. So assuming that the interconnects are good enough to prevent excessive signal loss or interference, they should all perform alike.




here's a bit from www.dolby.com and their DD FAQ (http://www.dolby.com/tech/l.br.9901.DDFAQ.html):

18. My DVD player has two digital outputs, one optical and one coaxial, and my Dolby Digital decoder has both kinds of inputs. Which should I use?

Under most conditions, optical and coaxial digital connections work equally well. Under some rare circumstances, however, coaxial cables, particularly very long ones, can pick up radio frequency (RF) interference generated by household appliances, or nearby high-tension power lines or broadcast towers.

If cost is a consideration, start with coaxial, which is less expensive. If you then hear RF interference, you can try relocating the cables, moving your components closer together so you can use shorter cables, or, if all else fails, changing to costlier optical cable. If cost is no object, using high-quality optical cables from the outset is probably your best long-term choice.

Note: some DVD players and Dolby Digital decoders have either a coaxial or an optical connector. Be sure that the units you purchase both use the same type.




One can argue that optical is 'better' because it is not susceptible to rf/emi interference but unless you wrap your digital coax cable around your power cables and plug them into a circuit with a microwave and washing machine on it, you won't notice any interference at all.

Some argument for coax are that you are almost guaranteed a good connection with a coax. Unlike the new "trap door" fiber optic connections that are being put on the ass end of the Sony Receivers and others, the Coax connection is solid and a proven design. What happens with the new "trap door" fiber optic connection design is that after two or more installs/uninstalls, the door brakes. Well, the door is also used to hold on the fiber optic cable, and without the door, that connection is lost. Your only hope after is to rig the cable on with adhesive, or use another connection and change sources on your AV equipment.

Each end of a fiber optic cable is just that, an optic. Optics are prone to scratches and breakage. If you accidentally mess up an end during installation or handling, you're screwed out of an expensive cable. Yes, even an "audiophile" can screw up connecting this cable. What can happen, for example, is you may be in a tight area (like behind a wall unit), and you can't see the back of the equipment. So now your forced to blindly try to install the fiber optic connector, which is obviously, orientation sensitive. You feel, you prod, and you push, but it ain't going in : ). Then suddenly, with all that poking around, you snap off the lens, or scratched the lens without knowing it.





The question I had was more in the reference of what to conect to what in what order rather then cable quality.

For instance taking in to consideration that x-fi cards do not have optical on the card and you have to go thought the 5.25" bay pannel or external box and the fact that you can use the 3.5mm mic jack to output data which does less damage, the sending data through the card to bay pannel / external box cable or thought the 3.5mm plug. Coinsidentaly I have answered my own question by looking in to what merlin said, its digital, if the data will get altered on the way it will be resent and there should not be any issues being sound drop out since thats what we have buffers for.


Atleast that is how I understand it, please correct me if I am wrong since I am not an acoustical engineer by any means, thanks guys
orphsmile.gif
 
Jan 25, 2006 at 4:54 PM Post #7 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by epion2985
Not really. There has been so much debate over Toslink vs Coax and in the end neither is better nor worce.


With a computer as source, specifically when dealing with an internal sound card, optical is almost always better because you eliminate any kind of electronic interfearence that might travel through a metal cable (coaxial).
 
Jan 25, 2006 at 10:08 PM Post #8 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by Revliskciuq
With a computer as source, specifically when dealing with an internal sound card, optical is almost always better because you eliminate any kind of electronic interfearence that might travel through a metal cable (coaxial).


Yes, but that is irrelevant.

Optical always has a higher jitter rating than coax so coax is my choice.
 
Jan 26, 2006 at 2:15 AM Post #9 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by maarek99
Yes, but that is irrelevant.

Optical always has a higher jitter rating than coax so coax is my choice.



Well the context still matters and all soundcard and computer results will differ since there are many combinations of PSU, mobo, and cards.

Here's one
http://www.stereophile.com/digitalso...99/index5.html
which shows higher jitter with coax.
 
Jan 26, 2006 at 4:19 AM Post #10 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by epion2985
You mean a 3.5mm sterio to SPDIF cable like this?

http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/RCA-mini-spdif.html

What is the best way to go about connecting your sound card to your external dac?



Hey, will this working to use my digital out on my SB Live! card to my receiver (digital coax in)

EDIT: Nevermind, read the website and answered my own question.
 
Jan 26, 2006 at 7:44 AM Post #11 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by maarek99
Yes, but that is irrelevant.

Optical always has a higher jitter rating than coax so coax is my choice.



Mind you this is in reference to digital cables only and digital signal, not analog.

When you are pushing 1's and 0's jitter does not matter. You either get the 1 or 0 at the right time or you dont, and if you dont the device requests the data to be resent, thats why we have buffers. I think Chromy, the admin on dvdfile.com, put it very well as far as quality of digital cables goes. All the RFI and EMI that optical is immune to doesnt make a difference either way.


"I'm still currious to hear from the cable people on my CD/DVD copying comments above... How is it possible to make a bit accurate copy of a CD in the computer case environment... you have the signal getting read off of one disc, going to the buffer, going across the cables to the IDE interface, going across the bus, getting processed, shoved back across the bus into the IDE adapter, and then back out across those same gray ribbon cables and out to the CD-R drive... all with no mistakes...

These ribbon cables obviously have no sheilding, round trip, you've probably gone about 2 ft... inside the case... with all of the RF interference being created by the processors,fans, and powersupply... and yet when it arrives at the MB, or even the cd burner, it is bit accurate... with the way digital works, as long as it is bit accurate there is no possible way that it sounds any different."
 
Jan 26, 2006 at 8:03 AM Post #12 of 31
epion2985, we're not copying to and from endpoints but reconstructing analog audio.

There's a lot of stuff on the web concerning jitter in audio recording and playback. Check out this article http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/jitter1_e.html There's a lot of ideas in there.
 
Jan 26, 2006 at 11:33 AM Post #13 of 31
I read it, it gives a nice definition of jitter but doesnt talk about its end effects.

If jitter on a digital line alters sound then logicaly if you put an original cd in your cd rom and then burn a copy with your cd burner, then take the original and the copy and put them in a cd player they should sound different. But they do not, because indeed they will be bitpefect copies of each other. Now, whatever jitter originated in the copy prossess was obviously illiminated by the buffer and a few other things since the copies will be 100% idential. And if the cd burner can illiminate all ill effects of jitter then so can a DAC or any other device.

You say that "we're not copying to and from endpoints but reconstructing analog audio". Well the midpoint is the same, once you transmitted your digital data it goes to the end divice, weather it is a cd burner or a DAC, and either device has to counter jitter, what they do with it after is the only difference. If a cd burner can fix it to be a bitperfect copy of the original so can a DAC.
 
Jan 26, 2006 at 1:04 PM Post #14 of 31
epion2985, you are thinking absolutely logically, but only within your current level of knowledge.. things, unfortunatelly, use to be much more complicated than they appear to be and believe me - this is just another proof of that.. you'd need to spend considerable amount of time investigating matters, getting to know how exactly things work etc.. it's not a matter of one afternoon's googlin' really, but for now please just take our words for true..

with all respect,
~G
 
Jan 27, 2006 at 3:41 AM Post #15 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by epion2985
If jitter on a digital line alters sound then logicaly if you put an original cd in your cd rom and then burn a copy with your cd burner, then btake the original and the copy and put them in a cd player they should sound different. But they do not,


On the contrary, the two can sound different. In my experience, from the words of other head-fiers, the discs I've made for them have been said to sound different... even better than the original.

Do you want me to make you a copy of something?
 

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