[hamhamhamsta]

you got a PM

Whitigir,

Can you also send me a PM on latest 3.01 Jupiter 301 T1-1Z; mine is 1Z based on EU region

Thanks

 

[proedros]

Whitigir,

Can you also send me a PM on latest 3.01 Jupiter 301 T1-1Z; mine is 1Z based on EU region

Thanks

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ltiuQ5BiY56GvFgu0RetYfA01MfEDzne

 

[ttt123]

I wish there was a way to stick copper foil capacitors inside the 1A.
The battery cable MOD made a bigger difference that I thought it would, about as much as the connector cables to be honest.
Resolution, and BASS were the biggest beneficiaries.

I know power cables in amps and DACs make a big difference, but this was still very surprising.

I used 20 gauge Solid OCC Copper for Interconnects
and 24 gauge Solid OCC Copper for Battery connectors.
This combo beats my Benchmark DAC Sony is the more Natural sound, more true to life rendering. After A/B Switch....I prefer the Sony, if I had to choose one.
Currently on Mars T3

Interesting....can only guess that this is related to improving noise on the power leads. If you consider power as another signal ( with micro variances ), which feeds, and influences every single component/signal in the system, then it is in an area that can have great gains if improved. Unexpected, as we think of power and ground as simple things that are easy to get right. But we already have a lot of data that this is really a very complex area....and still not totally understood

 

[524419]

Interesting....can only guess that this is related to improving noise on the power leads. If you consider power as another signal ( with micro variances ), which feeds, and influences every single component/signal in the system, then it is in an area that can have great gains if improved. Unexpected, as we think of power and ground as simple things that are easy to get right. But we already have a lot of data that this is really a very complex area....and still not totally understood

Same thing happened the 1st time I made cables for my Amplifiers, Gauge and metals have a direct influence on sound, pretty close to the level of interconnects.
I was even more surprised to learn that the quality of the AC outlet made an audible difference, even to the extent of affecting timbre. That one I still can't even begin to explain.
GTX Copper with Gold plating sounds different that GTX Rhodium AC plugs. Did extensive A/B tests. Both were better than regular AC outlets (which by the way sound quite grainy in comparison).

To put it mildly...we do not understand how electricity affects sound, at all.

I only use Solid Copper for all my Cables. Litz only for IEM cables

 

[Vitaly2017]

Same thing happened the 1st time I made cables for my Amplifiers, Gauge and metals have a direct influence on sound, pretty close to the level of interconnects.
I was even more surprised to learn that the quality of thje AC outlet made an audible difference, even to the extent of affecting timbre. That one I still can't even begin to explain.
GTX Copper with Gold plating sounds different that GTX Rhodium AC plugs. Did extensive A/B tests. Both were better than regular AC outlets (which by the way sound quite grainy in comparison).

To put it mildly...we do not understand how electricity affects sound, at all.

And to make it even more complex and confusing imagine now that if the electricity was obtained from wind or water or nuclear and it also affects sound lmao

now we are even more lost, gotta ask Tesla what he thinks which electricity is the purest for sound quality

 

[Mindstorms]

So TW since to bring 3.01 closer to 3.00MX3 but with slower bass 3.02 sounds very good with TW!

 

[ttt123]

Same thing happened the 1st time I made cables for my Amplifiers, Gauge and metals have a direct influence on sound, pretty close to the level of interconnects.
I was even more surprised to learn that the quality of thje AC outlet made an audible difference, even to the extent of affecting timbre. That one I still can't even begin to explain.
GTX Copper with Gold plating sounds different that GTX Rhodium AC plugs. Did extensive A/B tests. Both were better than regular AC outlets (which by the way sound quite grainy in comparison).

To put it mildly...we do not understand how electricity affects sound, at all.

AC outlets and plugs, do have some explanation, once you take a close look at them. I have wired AC, both commercially, and at home, so I do know some of what goes on.
The 89 cents AC outlet that goes into most homes, have push connections,, and screws. Everybody uses the push connection, where you strip the wire, and push it into the hole. Fast, and easy. But if you look at the actual physical connection, it is a knife edge contact, between the round wire and a spring metal strip. Push 10 amps through this super small contact area, and it is noisy, and overheats. Also very dangerous/can cause fires. An Extremely bad physical connection.
Always use the screws to fasten the wire instead. And never use the cheapest components. Not a savings, compared to the risk/danger.

Then there is the quality of the outlet/plug. Why do audio grade hospital outlet/plugs cost $20+ dollars each, versus the the $1.00 or cheaper ones from Home Depot?
Very different specs and requirements. Hospital grade components (sockets and plugs) comply to a standard meant to eliminate sparks in oxygen rich surroundings.

To do that, they use thick clamp plates/stainless steel screw(instead of brass) to clamp the wire under high pressure, and with a very large contact area. The actual socket contacts (which the plug pins are inserted into), are thick, and have very high clamping pressure. Just how high a pressure is illustrated by an experiment that one magazine did. Using hospital grade female and male outlet/plug, they could lift up a 40 pound amplifier by the power cable.
All this affects the connection, noise, etc.

And then there is the dedicated AC cable from the panel, reducing the noise from refrigerators, microwaves, etc. on a common circuit......
(I can't put in a dedicated AC run, but do have filter capacitors in a box, which I plug into spare outlets, to reduce AC noise)

And it goes on and on....for those people who get interested, and willing to try some of these things.

 

[Vitaly2017]

after rolling a lot of fw and regions tonight ! thanks to the help of @Midnstorms He kept saying how good is 3.00 fw and U region, well turns out hes been right!
The U + stock 3.00 is very very close and share some interesting similarities with J + Jupiter T3!

If you like U + stock 3.00 but its a little to sharp in treble you can always go down to MX3 + 3.00 I find @Midnstorms is absolutely right on this one and it does sound as phenomenal as our new custom FW I think this is also a nice way to add some extra configurations when needed !!!


What I really Love about U + stock 3.00 is it madd deep sub sub bass, it really a beast it rumble deep and doesnt lose details !!!


Viva the freedom of being able to FW and Region Rolling YESS

 

[524419]

AC outlets and plugs, do have some explanation, once you take a close look at them. I have wired AC, both commercially, and at home, so I do know some of what goes on.
The 89 cents AC outlet that goes into most homes, have push connections,, and screws. Everybody uses the push connection, where you strip the wire, and push it into the hole. Fast, and easy. But if you look at the actual physical connection, it is a knife edge contact, between the round wire and a spring metal strip. Push 10 amps through this super small contact area, and it is noisy, and overheats. Also very dangerous/can cause fires. An Extremely bad physical connection.
Always use the screws to fasten the wire instead. And never use the cheapest components. Not a savings, compared to the risk/danger.

Then there is the quality of the outlet/plug. Why do audio grade hospital outlet/plugs cost $20+ dollars each, versus the the $1.00 or cheaper ones from Home Depot?
Very different specs and requirements. Hospital grade components (sockets and plugs) comply to a standard meant to eliminate sparks in oxygen rich surroundings.

To do that, they use thick clamp plates/stainless steel screw(instead of brass) to clamp the wire under high pressure, and with a very large contact area. The actual socket contacts (which the plug pins are inserted into), are thick, and have very high clamping pressure. Just how high a pressure is illustrated by an experiment that one magazine did. Using hospital grade female and male outlet/plug, they could lift up a 40 pound amplifier by the power cable.
All this affects the connection, noise, etc.

And then there is the dedicated AC cable from the panel, reducing the noise from refrigerators, microwaves, etc. on a common circuit......
(I can't put in a dedicated AC run, but do have filter capacitors in a box, which I plug into spare outlets, to reduce AC noise)

And it goes on and on....for those people who get interested, and willing to try some of these things.

I contemplated doing a straight dedicated run to the main, but that would have been a lot of work, didn't think of using capacitors inline to clean up the AC Signal, might just have to look into that. You know the funny thing is, there is someone somewhere who is going to come and scream about how wrong we are, and it is his sworn duty to help shield the unsuspecting public from out snake oilery.
If you don't mind, what capacitors do you recommend to filter out a 20 amp line?

 

[ttt123]

I contemplated doing a straight dedicated run to the main, but that would have been a lot of work, didn't think of using capacitors inline to clean up the AC Signal, might just have to look into that. You know the funny thing is, there is someone somewhere who is going to come and scream about how wrong we are, and it is his sworn duty to help shield the unsuspecting public from out snake oilery.
If you don't mind, what capacitors do you recommend to filter out a 20 amp line?

I followed Jon Risch's recommendations. http://www.geocities.ws/jonrisch/surge.htm He has recommendations for parts.
I found Philips MKP cheap and available, at a HK Apliu St. Stall, so used those. Wired into a standalone outlet box, with a short cable and plug. Make sure to wire a bleed resistor in, to bleed the capacitors when unplugged, otherwise somebody may be surprised when they grab the metal plug contacts!
And/or always short out the plug contacts with a screwdriver after unplugging the box from AC..

Yes, there are a lot of write ups on how the Manufacturer knows best, and designed everything needed in, and it cannot be improved.

The only problem is, the opposite is true. Manufacturers (the majority) put in the minimum required, to maximize profit. They also benefit if products fail earlier, thus you find underpowered, low quality power/wall warts, no spark suppression on high current switches, no ventilation holes/airflow, low quality components, cables/wires, no shielding, etc. etc.

But to each their own. Do what you believe in. Be patient with those people who are doing useless things, as it makes them happy. And this applies to both sides.

 

[524419]

I followed Jon Risch's recommendations. http://www.geocities.ws/jonrisch/surge.htm He has recommendations for parts.
I found Philips MKP cheap and available, at a HK Apliu St. Stall, so used those. Wired into a standalone outlet box, with a short cable and plug. Make sure to wire a bleed resistor in, to bleed the capacitors when unplugged, otherwise somebody may be surprised when they grab the metal plug contacts!
And/or always short out the plug contacts with a screwdriver after unplugging the box from AC..

Yes, there are a lot of write ups on how the Manufacturer knows best, and designed everything needed in, and it cannot be improved.

The only problem is, the opposite is true. Manufacturers (the majority) put in the minimum required, to maximize profit. They also benefit if products fail earlier, thus you find underpowered, low quality power/wall warts, no spark suppression on high current switches, no ventilation holes/airflow, low quality components, cables/wires, no shielding, etc. etc.

But to each their own. Do what you believe in. Be patient with those people who are doing useless things, as it makes them happy. And this applies to both sides.

Thanks for the info.
And good advise, I'll try to keep that in mind.

Looks easy enough to build, should be very interesting.

 

[Redcarmoose]

After spending a long while on Solis.......took the peer pressure and jumped over for a relaxing visit on new Jupiter301-T1. Kind of a relatively smoother switch on both 1A and 1Z. Of course with-out flavor enhancing physical DAP mods, I can only guess Solis T5 is all about brute strength and critical details in the treble regions, much like the Sun. Lol

Thus Solis is what it is. Though Jupiter has those lovely sound-stage environments which are always a welcome visit again, only this time somehow more spacious and top to bottom? Excuse my rambling here, I actually don’t flip updates back and forth but try to use memory? Thanks again @Midnstorms & Whitigir for raising the bar once more and endearing us with these new spectacular expressions of talent!

Jupiter always reminds of it’s naturalness and seemingly effortless stance. It also quite quickly shows the two players differences in easy to grasp form. Though as many know the 1A has made the biggest turn-around. I still don’t know why?

Cheers!

 

[aceedburn]

These Jupiters are based on 3.01, in T1 only. They have better bass response than previous versions, But YMMV.
Every firmwares has it own merits, the modifications is an improvements upon based stock firmware. Pick your poison!
We'll only host them for a day!

Can I have this exact same tuning based on 3.02? I love this tuning but feel that I’m missing out on the new features and staging present in 3.02.

 

[Whitigir]

Can I have this exact same tuning based on 3.02? I love this tuning but feel that I’m missing out on the new features and staging present in 3.02.

No, you can not. This is like modifying a Civic VS modifying a Supra. Both comes out in the end still being itself...because that is what their core are.

 

[aceedburn]

No, you can not. This is like modifying a Civic VS modifying a Supra. Both comes out in the end still being itself...because that is what their core are.

Sure I get it. It’s due to the nature of the specific firmware. But Jupiter 3.01 is out of this world on its own. And I sounds better on J region. I had it on CEV but it sounded a little off in the mids and highs. With J it’s almost perfection to me. Oh that bass. You outdid yourselves on this @Whitigir and @Morbideath kudos.