[Apolyonn]

Given the standards of the average head-fi user, I feel like this question is going to piss off a lot of the audiophiles on this board, so my apologies in advance.
 
A friend of mine had a headphone plug break on her Sony headphones, and I bet her that I could find a way to fix it.  I was just wondering if the plug could be replaced with a little soldering.  If it can, would I need an identical plug, or could I just use a generic/random one?  
 
Any help would be appreciated.
 
EDIT: meant to say 'plug,' not jack.

 

[MrViolin]

Well how was the jack broken? Neutrik is the way to go. 

 

[Apolyonn]

I can upload a picture after I get off work; but, the metal part basically...slipped out of the plastic part.  You can see the wires that are keeping the metal part attached to the wire, and they're a little freyed.  No sound is coming out of the left driver.

 

[MrViolin]

As for the soldering part, it probably can since the solder was probably weak (assuming that what you're talking about is the plug itselfart that covers the wire, and the metal that is put into a jack of a device). To the jack question: more than likely you'll be able to use the same jack
 

 

[Apolyonn]

Quote:

As for the soldering part, it probably can since the solder was probably weak (assuming that what you're talking about is the plug itselfart that covers the wire, and the metal that is put into a jack of a device). To the jack question: more than likely you'll be able to use the same jack
 

Thanks for the heads-up on the terminology ^_^  Just to be clear, are you recommending just re-soldering the wires inside the original plug, or soldering a new plug?  I was looking at those Neutriks and they seem pretty legit.

 

[MrViolin]

Quote:

Thanks for the heads-up on the terminology ^_^  Just to be clear, are you recommending just re-soldering the wires inside the original plug, or soldering a new plug?  I was looking at those Neutriks and they seem pretty legit.

Either one should be fine. As for the terminology, I'm not sure what I showed you lol.
It's really up to you, the way you describe it, I'm guessing that it's just a problem with the soldering of the metal and plastic part of the jack. It'd probably be easier that way (though if it's easier for you to get a new jack and solder, would do that). 
Yeah, Neutrik plugs are pretty much the ones that long term users go with. 

 

[liquidzoo]

I just used an Amphenol plug on a replacement cable for my K240s. Cheap and good looking.

Really, any plug will work as long as it's the right size (1/4" vs 1/8") and type (stereo vs mono). Even cheapish Radio Shack plugs.

 

[Apolyonn]

Quote:

I just used an Amphenol plug on a replacement cable for my K240s. Cheap and good looking.

Really, any plug will work as long as it's the right size (1/4" vs 1/8") and type (stereo vs mono). Even cheapish Radio Shack plugs.

 
They're a pair of Sony MDR-NC7's.  Since they're noise-canceling, will that make any difference as to what kind of replacement plug I should look for? (I assume it won't be, just thought I'd ask)
 
Quote:

As for the terminology, I'm not sure what I showed you lol.

Haha, I kept saying "jack" instead of "plug." 

 

[liquidzoo]

As long as the plug matches won't matter what kind you use. Look at the plug and see how many rings you see (they're black on most plugs, white on iPhone headsets). If you see 2, it's a standard TRS plug and any stereo plug will work.

3 would mean it's TRRS and you'd have to look for that type. Chances are it has 2 and the Amphenol (or Radio Shack, or Neutrik) plug will work. I got mine from Redco for less than $2 plus shipping.

 

[Apolyonn]

Quote:

Well how was the jack broken? Neutrik is the way to go. 

 
Quote:

As long as the plug matches won't matter what kind you use. Look at the plug and see how many rings you see (they're black on most plugs, white on iPhone headsets). If you see 2, it's a standard TRS plug and any stereo plug will work.

3 would mean it's TRRS and you'd have to look for that type. Chances are it has 2 and the Amphenol (or Radio Shack, or Neutrik) plug will work. I got mine from Redco for less than $2 plus shipping.

 
Sorry it's been awhile since my last post.  I ended up ordering a Neutrik 3.5mm plug (NTP3RC-B), which just arrived today.  With the help of some electrical tape, I connected the wires to the plug to make sure everything works properly, and it does   So, now on to actually soldering the wires.
 
That being said, can either of you guys provide some soldering advice since I've never attached wires to a plug like this before?  It seems pretty straightforward, but I want to make sure I do it right.  Also, there are two ground cables; do I need to do anything special to connect them, or just attach them both to the sleeve?
 
And again, thanks for your suggestions

 

[liquidzoo]

Quote:

 
 
Sorry it's been awhile since my last post.  I ended up ordering a Neutrik 3.5mm plug (NTP3RC-B), which just arrived today.  With the help of some electrical tape, I connected the wires to the plug to make sure everything works properly, and it does   So, now on to actually soldering the wires.
 
That being said, can either of you guys provide some soldering advice since I've never attached wires to a plug like this before?  It seems pretty straightforward, but I want to make sure I do it right.  Also, there are two ground cables; do I need to do anything special to connect them, or just attach them both to the sleeve?
 
And again, thanks for your suggestions

 
For the ground wires, strip a bit of the insulation off, twist the 2 wires together and just solder them together to the sleeve.
 
Some recommend tinning the wires first, and it definitely helps.  To do this, simply hold your soldering iron against the stripped wires and touch your solder to the stripped wires (if the soldering iron is below, touch the solder to the top) until a bit of the solder melts onto the wires.  After that, you should only need to put the wires in the right place and apply enough heat from the iron to melt a bit of the solder.  It will flow into the right place and cool quickly enough to bond.  If you do it right (even if you do it wrong) it should be a good enough hold that you won't need any extra solder.

 

[WhiteTiger]

Any thing should work, generic yes as long as it "fits' and matches the size.

 

[Apolyonn]

Quote:

 
For the ground wires, strip a bit of the insulation off, twist the 2 wires together and just solder them together to the sleeve.
 
Some recommend tinning the wires first, and it definitely helps.  To do this, simply hold your soldering iron against the stripped wires and touch your solder to the stripped wires (if the soldering iron is below, touch the solder to the top) until a bit of the solder melts onto the wires.  After that, you should only need to put the wires in the right place and apply enough heat from the iron to melt a bit of the solder.  It will flow into the right place and cool quickly enough to bond.  If you do it right (even if you do it wrong) it should be a good enough hold that you won't need any extra solder.

 


Well, soldered all the wires on, and the 'phones are essentially working.  However, when I turn on the noise-cancelling switch, every now and then, there'll be this low noise (reminds me of a muffled burp).  I did some research, and I'm assuming its a ground issue.  Anyone happen to know anything about this, and would it be wise to just go ahead and re-solder the ground?