Soldering tube 'plugs'?
Oct 27, 2008 at 4:12 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 8

pabbi1

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I am making some tube socket extensions to move the el34 tubes to the top of the case. The idea is to mount the sockets on channel aluminum, and insert the extensions into the existing sockets, rather than muck with the boards. The wire run will be 4-5".

So, I am using these 'plugs' (tube bases) with some 16 awg with tefzel (ETFE) insulation, and is rated at 600v, 200c.

plug.jpg

socket.jpg


Question is how / where to solder them? The wire won't quite come through the tips. so to unravel a bit, making sure it comes through, or solder the inside, or both?

Of course then I would use the liquid electrical tape on the inside... or?
 
Oct 27, 2008 at 1:19 PM Post #2 of 8

dBel84

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pabbi , I have just made octal adapters and used this exact phenol base. My approach was to fill the "legs" with solder and then set the pre-tinned wire into the middle of it. Space gets a little tight towards the end..dB
 
Oct 27, 2008 at 1:46 PM Post #3 of 8

pabbi1

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Great approach - then used the iron on the end of the pins? Normal (575f) or higher temp? I assume then the wire insulation is all the way down to the inside part of the pin, so there is no real exposed inside solder?

Did this approach introduce any noise or funkiness?
 
Oct 27, 2008 at 3:43 PM Post #4 of 8

dBel84

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I went from the inside of the base - tip of iron to the inner ring and let the solder flow , stick the wire in while applying heat and allow the insulation to dip into the solder - no exposed wire, clean seal.
fahrenheit ??? no idea , I use 435 deg C ( I like to work relatively hot and quickly )

No idea on noise yet - these are octal - noval adapters and I have yet to test them. I will let you know when the time comes ..dB
 
Oct 27, 2008 at 4:38 PM Post #5 of 8

n_maher

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You could save yourself quite a bit of hassle if you wanted to and just purchase "socket savers".

See Part #C8SAV. I've used this exact model of "saver" before on the Menace because the sockets that I used don't like tubes with big bases like the 6528s.
smily_headphones1.gif


Otherwise, I've use a method similar to dBel's when I made a couple sets of loctal/octal adapters.
 
Oct 27, 2008 at 5:01 PM Post #6 of 8

pabbi1

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Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher /img/forum/go_quote.gif
You could save yourself quite a bit of hassle if you wanted to and just purchase "socket savers".

See Part #C8SAV. I've used this exact model of "saver" before on the Menace because the sockets that I used don't like tubes with big bases like the 6528s.
smily_headphones1.gif


Otherwise, I've use a method similar to dBel's when I made a couple sets of loctal/octal adapters.



Well, better to explain what I am doing - the BH has wayyy too much heat for the 2sa1968(s), well over 100c (where ambient needs to be 75c) so I am moving the tubes up to outside the case, ~3", then moving the heatsinks out of the case as well, so, moving the boards over about 3"-4", without moving the tube position relative to the top of the case, so this is a wire job one way or the other.
 
Oct 27, 2008 at 5:32 PM Post #7 of 8

n_maher

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Ah, I get it know. Any reason you're not just cutting/removing the sockets from the pcb's and air wiring chassis mount sockets?


And if you need or want a couple of octal bases to mess around with I've got a spare pair I'll never use. They've been rolling around my workspace for months.
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Oct 27, 2008 at 5:39 PM Post #8 of 8

pabbi1

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Mainly for flexibility - may recase these boards at some point, and know this works without hacking on it. And thanks, but I already bought all the parts, and the vendor threw in extras on each...

Also, this is a temporal step, as the new BH design should be coming in the near future, but I want this to make it until then, so this is quick, and cheap.
 

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