soldering tips for non-tracked protoboard
Nov 1, 2002 at 8:18 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 5

oneade

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Does anyone have any tips on how to solder a cct using those boards without premade tracks. Soldering free wires to connect between components looks pretty hard.

Up to now, i've only been using pretracked boards and have gotten away with jumpering to connect tracks.

I've seen the pics sijosae uses, how do he do it?
 
Nov 1, 2002 at 5:18 PM Post #3 of 5
Use the component leads to connect to the other components as much as possible.

Use buss wire were it's not possible to use the component leads.

Make mechanical connections- bend the lead over the connection wire first then solder it.

Use teflon tubing to insulate any wires that could short out to other wires or the case or anything

I also use multi-conductor teflon covered wire about 28 gauge. Strip and tin one end, measure the wire with enough extra lenght to tin the other end. Make a mechanical connection and solder the first end, strip and tin the other end to the desired length, make another mechanical connection and solder. I use teflon wire because the insulation won't melt during soldering. It makes for a very clean layout.

Point to point wiring on un-plated boards is a little more work but you can build anything. You have total control over the layout.

Magnet wire has the coating which can be problematic in removing the coating completely. Not every one has a solder pot.
 
Nov 1, 2002 at 7:34 PM Post #4 of 5
i don't like magnet wire much either. i use component leads, and snipped off pieces of component leads. i like a good stiff wire. a good mechanical connection will help with a good electrical connection.
 
Nov 3, 2002 at 3:24 PM Post #5 of 5
To build a Sijosae style amp, you need to use the right wire gauges. Otherwise, you will have all sorts of problems while constructing your amp. Here I am talking from experience. I tried building a Sijosae style amp with solid-copper 22 AWG wire, and I had to give up on the attempt. The wire was simply too thick for the job.

Below I brought in a Headwize. com quote by Sijosae that explains the wire gauges he uses.

Sijosae on wires...

"I used different wires in different amps.
--SMD CMOY: 30AWG(0.25mm), 28AWG(0.32mm)
--Opamp based amps such as CMOY, CHA47, Meier, META42, etc: 28AWG(0.32mm), 26AWG(0.4mm)
--FET based amps such as Szekeres amp, SDS amp, Tori amp, etc: 26AWG(0.4mm), 0.6mm(22AWG?)."

[Edited by sijosae on 09-18-2002 at 10:50 PM.]

I suggest that you buy Alpha Wire in the gauges you need from Mouser.com. I would pick the 28 AWG and the 26 AWG to start with. Some of these Teflon-insulated, solid-copper Alpha wire gauges are special order items at Mouser, and they are not in their catalog. What to do? Well, you must email your order with a color choice (red, orange, yellow, etc).

tech@mouser.com

These 100ft rolls of solid copper wire sell for around $15. Therefore, those two rolls will cost you $30 plus shipping. Not bad! Allied Electronics sells the same wire for $22 per roll for a $44 total.

Good luck with this info!
 

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