[Teerawit]

Are you using the iron tip (while heating the lead/pad) to "bend" the lead into the pad so it makes mechanical contact?

 

[SHLim]

Quote:

Originally Posted by a1rocketpilot I actually tried this, however, the solder would always stick to either the iron tip or the lead, almost never to the pad. I was in the end able to get one resistor soldered with this method, but it took a fair bit of time before the solder decided to stick and even that was probably just luck. Aditya

Sounds like the pad is not getting enough heat, have a look at Hakko chisel tips. The 0.8mm chisel tip should allow you to read small pad.

Have fun,
Sam

 

[headfone]

Just curious if there has ever been a poll on best SMD/SMT...

- soldering iron tip dimension/type: (e.g. bevel, 1.0mm)

- iron wattage and/or temp:

- wick (braid dimension/type/brand)

- solder (brand/type)

- required accessories (e.g. tweezer (type/brand; removal alloy (do they work?); magnifier)

- all-in-one SMD/SMT removal kit

- etc.

Thx,
-KH

 

[ezkcdude]

Yes, and probably within the last week or so

.

 

[windjunkie]

I second the contamination. If the board has not been vacuum sealed it is sitting out collecting corrosion. Pads should be shiny. I usually trim an acid brush so the bristles are about a quarter inch or less and scrub the pads with isopropyl alcohol. If you have some rosin put a spot on the pad before soldering. If it still doesn’t work remove the solder and go back to cleaning. It’s all in the prep.

 

[Magsy]

Maybe I've missed the response but you need flux. Don't bother messing around, just use flux. It will be 1000 times easier. Solder will flow to the flux like you would not believe.

Flux the pads, drop on the item and heat ieach one with a little solder on the tip

The Cardas solder is amazing, you should not be having trouble with it!

 

[a1rocketpilot]

I think the issue is that the boards are not very clean. I just tried soldering a couple more resistors today and I finished some of the joints in a couple of seconds, yet on other joints, the solder simply would not stick. I'm going to try cleaning the board and using a flux pen. Speaking of which, anyone know where I can order a flux pen from?

Aditya

 

[Teerawit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by a1rocketpilot I think the issue is that the boards are not very clean. I just tried soldering a couple more resistors today and I finished some of the joints in a couple of seconds, yet on other joints, the solder simply would not stick. I'm going to try cleaning the board and using a flux pen. Speaking of which, anyone know where I can order a flux pen from? Aditya

You can find it at Fry's if you're willing to drive there.

 

[a1rocketpilot]

Heh, I would be, problem is, I don't have a car here yet. I found a Kester flux pen on Mouser, so I think I will just go ahead and get that, and see if that helps out.

Aditya

 

[nightfire]

It might be enough just to scrub the bottom of the board with a toothbrush. If you have some flux remover or just plain old rubbing alcohol, hose the bottom of the board down and scrub for a while.

Then use a q-tip and spread a small amount of flux on each pad. Dip the component leads in flux as well, and snip the troubling ones close to the final length before applying solder.

 

[nightfire]

Doh. Double post deleted.

 

[elmer_dudd]

flux tastes nasty. don't eat it.
use a scrap wire for the flux if you don't want to make a mess, or get rid of the cotton on the q-tip.
flux helps, but it isn't necessary-- most important is a precision and steady hand when applying the soldering iron, otherwise you'll just cook the flux rather than heat the joint

ps: you have to cook the flux to heat the joint, but you don't have to heat the joint to cook the flux.