SOHA II Builders Thread
Jan 31, 2010 at 9:25 PM Post #1,186 of 1,694
Quote:

Originally Posted by regal /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Where the heatsink is soldered to the board, make sure it is an open circuit with the DMM , also make sure that the ground trace is an open circuit to the regulator output.


Edit: better explaination on power rails: put your DMM pos lead on the TB+ the neg on grd and it should not beap as a short (less than 10 ohms), do the same with TL+. My first SOHA I board had a tiny trace of the ground plane connecting TL+ with the ground plain causing it to blow fuses.



MY measurings on TB+ and TL+ to ground seems ok, no short.

I found a short on the output (right) leg of the H- regulator. Is that wrong?
 
Feb 1, 2010 at 4:11 AM Post #1,187 of 1,694
Quote:

Originally Posted by kjetinho /img/forum/go_quote.gif
MY measurings on TB+ and TL+ to ground seems ok, no short.

I found a short on the output (right) leg of the H- regulator. Is that wrong?




Not right, make sure the LM337 tab is an open circuit with respect to the heatsink mounting tab.
 
Feb 1, 2010 at 12:53 PM Post #1,188 of 1,694
Ok. Ifound a short on both legs of C5P. Is this damadged, maybe?
SOHAIIPS.gif
 
Feb 1, 2010 at 5:15 PM Post #1,189 of 1,694
I desoldered the C5P, and measured the regulator and C5P again. No shortage. Must have been a solder bridge I could not see. I put C5P on the print again, and there was no short. Thanks for the advice!
 
Feb 5, 2010 at 6:21 PM Post #1,194 of 1,694
Thanks kjetinho.

OK, I'll skip the LED bling.

Does anyone have a pic of how they layed out the rear panel when including a Bantam DAC? The recommended placement of the toroidal requires the AC inlet to be in the middle of the panel. My worry is that this will be too close to the DAC and induce hum/noise. Is it worse having the toroidal PT closer to the PCB so there is room for the AC inlet on the far side of the rear panel? That would keep it another 2 inches away from the audio inputs.
 
Feb 5, 2010 at 11:14 PM Post #1,195 of 1,694
Quote:

Originally Posted by tubesmuggler /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Does anyone have a pic of how they layed out the rear panel when including a Bantam DAC?


I haven't seen a build yet with a Bantam inside, but it wouldn't surprise me if it's been done before. Front panel designer would be my best friend here. Laying it all in there first and then printing out a 1:1 will give you a really nice template to follow for drilling the rear panel (assuming you want to do the drilling yourself).
 
Feb 6, 2010 at 5:47 AM Post #1,196 of 1,694
Quote:

Originally Posted by tubesmuggler /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Thanks kjetinho.

OK, I'll skip the LED bling.

Does anyone have a pic of how they layed out the rear panel when including a Bantam DAC? The recommended placement of the toroidal requires the AC inlet to be in the middle of the panel. My worry is that this will be too close to the DAC and induce hum/noise. Is it worse having the toroidal PT closer to the PCB so there is room for the AC inlet on the far side of the rear panel? That would keep it another 2 inches away from the audio inputs.



Try different orientations before you do the drilling, every "case" is different.
 
Feb 6, 2010 at 2:41 PM Post #1,197 of 1,694
Hi! What is the height of completed board excluding the tubes?
The radiators are 25mm height (as stated in their datasheet), is that correct?

I want to fit the SOHA II into 38mm (internal) height case with holes for tubes in the cover... Is that possible?



Thanks!
 
Feb 6, 2010 at 8:47 PM Post #1,198 of 1,694
Quote:

Originally Posted by S3TUP /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hi! What is the height of completed board excluding the tubes?
The radiators are 25mm height (as stated in their datasheet), is that correct?



Height of completed board is 30mm (or at least that's what mine is).
 
Feb 8, 2010 at 6:00 PM Post #1,199 of 1,694
I'm back... Thanks for your help guys.

I got the upgraded Neutrik headphone jack and I'm trying to get the front panel layed out right for it. It looks to me like the 3-pin connector I soldered onto the board there will be in the way. I assume I can remove that and then wire the Neutrik directly to the PCB?

TIA
 

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