Sockets for board
Jan 8, 2006 at 10:07 PM Post #16 of 24
Yeah, the trim and pop em in was my idea. I thought it would be much safer, and with no worries about frying anything. I found that it was much easier for me to solder in just a socket than actual components as there was no worry about damaging the socket.
 
Jan 9, 2006 at 12:48 AM Post #18 of 24
Quote:

Originally Posted by joostoo
What are the odds of the resistors and caps and stuff falling out of the socket if you dropped the amp or something?


I'm wondering the same thing for when I build my Pimeta.
 
Jan 9, 2006 at 1:12 AM Post #19 of 24
Parts with little mass like resistors and small caps are quite tight in a machine pin sockets. I bet if you smacked your amp down trying to jar the part loose, you could not. It is quite easy to hit the resistors in the socket with a touch of solder after all debug and trials are completely done.
 
Jan 9, 2006 at 1:19 AM Post #20 of 24
I used some sip-sockets for some resistors on my m3, and there is _no_ chance whatsoever of them falling out, you have to use tools to get the resistor legs into the sockets at all. The only drawback to this method afaik is that it takes a lot more time to first solder in the sockets and then bend the resistors legs correctly and pushing them into the sockets.
 
Jan 9, 2006 at 2:13 AM Post #21 of 24
Quote:

Originally Posted by dgardner
It is quite easy to hit the resistors in the socket with a touch of solder after all debug and trials are completely done.


But then doesn't that defeat the purpose of using the sockets?
 
Jan 9, 2006 at 2:51 AM Post #22 of 24
Quote:

Originally Posted by joostoo
But then doesn't that defeat the purpose of using the sockets?


I don't think so necessarily. Maybe you want to be able to tweak the setup for a while until you get it just right, then when you do, solder it down without having to desolder the SIP.
 
Jan 9, 2006 at 2:53 AM Post #23 of 24
Quote:

Originally Posted by The Monkey
I don't think so necessarily. Maybe you want to be able to tweak the setup for a while until you get it just right, then when you do, solder it down without having to desolder the SIP.


Oh i see. I misunderstood it, my bad. I thought he meant solder it in the sip, then if it doesnt work undersolder, then solder again etc. Yes i guess that does make sense.
 

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