[bperboy]

Is there any such thing as a 1pin ic socket to plug in all the components for a cmoy? I was wondering about this, as to not fry all the other components while soldering.

 

[DaKi][er]

Yea, they are exactly the same as dip sockets but they come in a single row of them, usually around 30 or something, you then break them off into however many pins you want

I’m more of a fan of the pin header approach, with the PCB pins on the board and you crimp a connector onto the end of your wire and plug it in that way

 

[bperboy]

do you happen to have a part number for either ratshack or digikey?

 

[dgardner]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bperboy do you happen to have a part number for either ratshack or digikey?

Start searching for "sip socket" on digikey and pick your price range.

 

[n_maher]

ED7264-ND is the cheapest DigiKey part # that I know, and not cheap at $8 but you do get 64 of them. You can get much smaller quantities at Mouser using the part # 575-113120.

HTH,

Nate

 

[DaKi][er]

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PI6470
My local electronics place, only good if you are in Australia

 

[ericj]

Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher ED7264-ND is the cheapest DigiKey part # that I know, and not cheap at $8 but you do get 64 of them. You can get much smaller quantities at Mouser using the part # 575-113120.

Since you don't really need the gold (really, you don't) - try this p/n - much cheaper:

575-193164

aka mill-max p/n 310-93-164-41-001000

It's a strip of 64 for $1.87 rather than a strip of 20 for $1.28.

 

[mono]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bperboy ... I was wondering about this, as to not fry all the other components while soldering.

If your soldering exposes parts to too much heat, it'll also start to melt the plastic carriers on most SIP sockets too.

I recommend some soldering practice-work before building the amp, and if you find your iron is not suitable then another iron will be useful too. While some things are more difficult to solder than others, the parts in a CMOY shouldn't be too bad, especially if you are using a DIP socket for the OPAMP.
If you're building the CMOY on perfboard like you'd find at Radio shack, that might make it slightly more difficult than some similar soldering tasks but primarily focus on heating the copper, then bridge the solder over towards the part lead with the iron tip while applying the solder to it (the part lead). Easier to do than describe perhaps, why practice is so useful.

 

[bperboy]

How is the heat resistance of the resistors, because i test them before i solder them into the board for the power supply, but after, nothing tests right with my DMM.

 

[n_maher]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bperboy How is the heat resistance of the resistors, because i test them before i solder them into the board for the power supply, but after, nothing tests right with my DMM.

Depending on the project, this is most likely a result of the resistors becoming part of a circuit where they are connected to other resistors and therefore your
DMM won't just be reading the one resistor's value when you try to measure it.

I think you'd have to heat a resistor for a while to permanently change it's value. But FWIW it shouldn't take more than a couple of seconds of heat to solder properly.

HTH,

Nate

 

[dgardner]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bperboy How is the heat resistance of the resistors

Focus on getting enough heat into the connection to make a nice, smooth solder fillet around the lead. It's very difficult to overheat a resistor if you are using a normal sized soldering iron. Cold solder joints can account for a lot of DIY frustrations during debug.

 

[bperboy]

Is a cool solder joint when the joint is not shiny, but dull? It should be nice and shiny right?

 

[jerb]

shiny is good, it should look like a little cone around the part. Globs of solder are bad so are dull joints

EDIT: heres a link that shows how to get a good joint and has pictures of what a bad joint looks like:
http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/desolderpix.htm

 

[mono]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bperboy Is a cool solder joint when the joint is not shiny, but dull? It should be nice and shiny right?

Yes it will tend to be shinier, any would be though some of the lead-free are supposedly less shiney either way, BUT what you're looking for that when the component lead is heated, you see the solder "choosing" to flow and spread out along the part. To promote this, the part should have relatively clean leads and in some cases even extra flux is added (even with the solder has flux in it). For a CMOY's typical joints the added flux is usually unnecessary but the key is that your iron is hot enough and the tip clean enough (though tinned with solder) that you make a quick but good contact to heat the part just a moment before touching the solder a short distance away from the iron tip. Once the solder starts to flow, in that fraction of a second it also spreads heat away so you get a kind of radius away from the point where the iron was.

One thing a lot of beginners do is add too much solder, or not cleaning their iron tip often enough. With the perfboard you will need more solder than with a custom board, but just enough to make full contact, if the surface of the solder is getting convex curved you're putting too much on in most cases.

There are some videos of soldering on this page, though the CMOY isn't likely to have as much metal to heat up (except for jack and POT wires) so you will most likely not need to heat as long as in the video (depends on iron wattage too), just use the timing as a relative gauge rather than absolute fractions of a second.

Also note the conical tip on that iron used, was laid down at a shallow angle to transmit heat better on both joined surfaces. If your iron tip is a different shape then you hold iron at the different angle necessary to cause the broadest face of the tip to contact the surfaces, if/when possible.

 

[The Monkey]

So when you socket your resistors, you just trim them and pop 'em in and out like an opamp in a DIP socket?