[Riverflow]

I was taut as a apprentice (many moons ago) that the incoming supply was on the left as you read the fuse and the load on the right.I served my apprenticeship in the Nuclear industry and everything was pedantic.
Later in my career on some machines I worked they would void the warranty if they found the fuse was the wrong direction.

 

[Hypops]

I was taut as a apprentice (many moons ago) that the incoming supply was on the left as you read the fuse and the load on the right.I served my apprenticeship in the Nuclear industry and everything was pedantic.
Later in my career on some machines I worked they would void the warranty if they found the fuse was the wrong direction.

Cool to know, but I've never seen an indication on consumer electronics for these orientations. Are there symbols, markings, etc. that I'm overlooking on either the fuse or the socket?

And, again, waaay out of my comfort zone (I was an English major), but from what I've been reading over the past few days, the fuse is part of the AC power circuit, so there is no "direction" to the current (because it's alternating). That doesn't negate the fact that I can hear a clear difference in the orientation of the fuse, but it does make it impossible to know the proper orientation of the fuse... since there isn't one.

EDIT: Was just reading the product info for Synergistic Research's fuses. Even they don't know the "right" orientation of their fuses. They just say: if it doesn't sound like an improvement over your prior fuse, flip it around.

 

[Riverflow]

Are there symbols, markings, etc. that I'm overlooking on either the fuse or the socket?

If you look at the picture of the on the fuse itself

the G side is the incoming mains and the D is load
I can not remember being given an explanation as an apprentice but some old fuses had a red dot on them and when they blew they turned black and they where directional if I remember correctly.

 

[rjacko01]

yes I guess you are right about the 30 on a fuse as oppose to 800 on a new amp, think my ears are probably too old to benefit from a 30 upgrade which not saying would not make a difference, just that a whole new amp would probably mean I notice the change. I am sure many on here would tell the difference of a fuse swap out, I'm pretty sure on a blind test I would be right 50% of the time & wrong the rest, funny thing is if the fuse was never changed for my old ears the result would probably come out the same

 

[Hypops]

yes I guess you are right about the 30 on a fuse as oppose to 800 on a new amp, think my ears are probably too old to benefit from a 30 upgrade which not saying would not make a difference, just that a whole new amp would probably mean I notice the change. I am sure many on here would tell the difference of a fuse swap out, I'm pretty sure on a blind test I would be right 50% of the time & wrong the rest, funny thing is if the fuse was never changed for my old ears the result would probably come out the same

Seems like one of the few perks of us all getting older: our ears can’t hear expensive subtleties.

 

[Hypops]

Quick update on adding a replacement fuse. Got the Acme Audio Labs Silver Cryo Fuse. Despite my better judgment, it does indeed add distinct brightness. Going to give it some time and see if it mellows out. Not sure if I think it's "better" than the stock fuse, but it is certainly different. Sounds something like adding a 1-2dB treble shelf from about 8-10kHz. The effect is more suited to my HE6 than to my Focals.

 

[Friskyseal]

Quick update on adding a replacement fuse. Got the Acme Audio Labs Silver Cryo Fuse. Despite my better judgment, it does indeed add distinct brightness. Going to give it some time and see if it mellows out. Not sure if I think it's "better" than the stock fuse, but it is certainly different. Sounds something like adding a 1-2dB treble shelf from about 8-10kHz. The effect is more suited to my HE6 than to my Focals.

Just to be clear, you got the one with the CFC coating, right? The body of the fuse is black?

 

[Hypops]

Just to be clear, you got the one with the CFC coating, right? The body of the fuse is black?

Yup (more of a deep purple than properly black). And no indicated “direction,” but definitely sounds different one way vs the other. Currently running it on its brightest side, give it a week, then do some more A/B-ing.

 

[Friskyseal]

Yup (more of a deep purple than properly black). And no indicated “direction,” but definitely sounds different one way vs the other. Currently running it on its brightest side, give it a week, then do some more A/B-ing.

Okay, good. Because I tried both the CFC and non-CFC and to me only the CFC one was special. The normal one probably isn't worth bothering over the stock, at least from memory.

Definitely don't want to be too much of a burn-in bro here—I could always detect a difference right after installing, but I do think you need to let the fuses run for an hour or so to heat up before really evaluating. I mean even the amp itself gets pretty cold when shut-off to change the fuse.

 

[Hypops]

Okay, good. Because I tried both the CFC and non-CFC and to me only the CFC one was special. The normal one probably isn't worth bothering over the stock, at least from memory.

Definitely don't want to be too much of a burn-in bro here—I could always detect a difference right after installing, but I do think you need to let the fuses run for an hour or so to heat up before really evaluating. I mean even the amp itself gets pretty cold when shut-off to change the fuse.

I'm with you. I'm too much of a pragmatist to ignore the fact that burn-in has a very real effect on what I hear. I don't care what the reasons are (whether electrical, mechanical, psychological, or magical). If I hear it, it is real.

 

[Etx1]

After some advice regarding the purchase of this amp, shall be connected to a Hiby R6 pro2 and 109 pros, connections shall all be balanced.
Do you guys think the Singxer will pair well with the above ?

 

[Hypops]

After some advice regarding the purchase of this amp, shall be connected to a Hiby R6 pro2 and 109 pros, connections shall all be balanced.
Do you guys think the Singxer will pair well with the above ?

Edit: it’ll work.

 

[raif71]

It’ll work, but I’m not sure what you gain in this scenario. Why not just use the Hiby by itself?

I think he wants to use the SIngxer and using the Hiby R6 as transporter or device for playing music

 

[Hypops]

Edit: corrected below

 

[raif71]

I get that, but I don't understand why. The Hiby already has a DAC/amp in it, so they'd be amplifying it twice if they then output it into a Singxer. There'd be no benefit other than it being louder. But it won't sound any better since the Hiby is still in the chain. The Singxer would just be amplifying what the Hiby is already doing. You might even end up with more noise and distortion than by using the Hiby alone. Just doesn't make sense to me.

The one way this makes sense is if you use the Hiby as a digital source that then outputs via USB to a separate DAC and then to the Singxer. But going from the Hiby to the Singxer won't improve anything, and might actually make things sound worse.

If he is using the R6 2020 version, this has LO for both 4.4mm and 3.5mm, otherwise the original R6 has line out through the 3.5mm jack only if I'm not mistaken. Using the LO does not do double amplification as the voltage out of LO is suitable for input to an amp.