Sijosae Hybrid Scematic and part list?

[jerb]

*Claps*

nice work

 

[sbelyo]

It just makes it easier getting rid of the letters....

I am going to doublecheck my layout and then order at least 2 boards.

Right now there is a board mounted alps blue pot. The Electrolytics are spaced for 10, 12, 16, or 18 mm caps.

The power connection, output, and input are all panel mount.

 

[sbelyo]

Alright, so it took me 10 months and a fit of boredom, but I gathered the parts together.

I tried back in Feb. to layout a nice board in Express PCB (I suck at eagle). But nothing looked right to me and I gave up. Then I thought if I used their mini board service it would only be $59.00. I managed to fit all the stuff in the 3.8 x 2.5 space with ease. So I double checked all the routes and scematics and ordered the proto's.

I should have the boards on Thursday ( I hope they work ). I'll post a parts list for mouser soon. You can get everything except the tube and socket from mouser. The tube and socket you can get at tubedepot.com or antique electronic supply. It looks like it about $25.00 in parts from mouser and $10 to $15 from the tube palces depenind on what brand of tube you want.

Then there's the power supply. Anything from 18 - 24 Vdc should work, I don't know how much current it will draw. I'm going to power it with a steps for now.

 

[yommm]

Sbelyo:

Did your eagle CAD board work? I am trying to build the same amp, but I am totally new to eagle, and it seems to be a bit difficult getting my PCB layout done. If you have the files could you publish them or email them to me?

Thank you so much!

Andrew

 

[sbelyo]

Sorry I haven't been around for a while....

That board never worked unfortunately... I started building all my tube stuff point to point after that.

 

[scott_fx]

i am just getting into this hobby and i want to build my own tube amp. do you have a parts list and if so would you care to pass it along?

thanks
's

 

[Seaside]

All parts needed are shown at the pic sbelyo posted at the first page of this thread.
You can list them yourself.

OK, little more specific... I will add some notes regarding that.

1. 1/4w resistors will be fine at all position.

2. 2~3x right next to the potentionmeter means, the value of that resistor should be 2~3x of the value of potentionmeter. For ie, when you use 10K pot, the R next it would be anywhere between 20~30K. You can choose any value you want. This R is to reduce the strengh of input signal (means it will reduce the gain too) , in order to cut off possible noise from the source.

3. 470~1000uF cap is to eliminate poping noise. This cap should be at least 35V rating, since it must stand 24V of supplying voltage.

4. 1000uF cap is coupling cap. 25V rating will be fine.

5. CRD E-701 may not available. But, there are bunch of alternatives there. Check mouser with CRD (Current Regulating Diode) or CLD (Current Limiting Diode). When a few pops up, get a part with 0.5~0.75A rating.

6. You will need some heatsinks with IRF610 and LM317.

7. Use REGULATED power supply, otherwise you will get a lot of hum.
This amp will draw current up tp 400mA. That means the power supply must be able to deliver "stable and regulated" 500mA at 24V.

8. And of course, you will need soldering stuffs, PCB, switch, jacks, tube and tube socket, wires etc.

* Gain of this amp will be... about 3 to 4 depending on the parts you use. To increase the gain, use smaller value at "2x3 pot" R. But this can increase the amount of niose if there's any.

* Make sure you adjust the balance and heater voltage by turning those two 2K trimmer arround, after you done building. When you do that correctly, heater voltage should be arround 6.3V and the voltage between IRF610 and 1000uF cap (Plate voltage) will be arround 17V at both sides.

Hope this helps.