[mchurgin]

I will try to get a good picture in my ear later today.

 

[mchurgin]

Hers is a picture I took of myself so it is not 100% sharp but I think it does the trick.

You can see the 1/2" length of original form fit cable coming from the earphone. Then it becomes the regular teflon coated audio cable out and over the ear. You can see that it drapes very nicely over the ear, is not rigid and is very light. Anyone with an E1, or E2 it is very comparable.

 

[evolushun]

mchurgin, ur a legend, cheers for the pics. now i see what you mean. Now i am tempted to do the mod, prolly sometime later on this week. Just wondering what sort of blade/cutting tool you used for the mod?

 

[mchurgin]

Just use an exacto knife with a new blade. Use a new blade for each side.

Put a little slit in the casing ( Very Very Carefully) so you can pull the wire up and out just a little. Then use the wire as a guide and kind of slice the teflon casing open, right over the wire like you are peeling a peice of fruit. If you go to deep the wire will be below the knife.
Then you can peel the casing away and cut it off with either the knife or good cutters. You will need good sharp small cutters to cut the wire as close as possible to the end where you stop.

You cant pull the wire out because it is embedded in the earphone case.
Once you get started you will just keep going until you get it as far as you want.

In reference to the question about creasing: The 1/2" rigid wire piece thats left is so short that you dont coil up the phones that small. You certainly dont fold or crease them so I dont see that as an issue.

The audio cable just naturally wants to bend about 1/2" higher than that coming out of the ear and that is the natural bend for coiling up to store away.

I think that the teflon covered audio cable is pliable enough to be comforable yet much stronger and durable then the E1, and the E2. The E2 is mpre of a standard headphone cable, while what I saw of the E1 it seems very fragile.

 

[MadDog]

mchurgin
excellent job! do your ears feel much lighter without the extra steel wire cut away? any problem, like steel wire sticking out on the edge or anything?

 

[mchurgin]

do your ears feel much lighter without the extra steel wire cut away?

Yes it is light and loose, that is why I did it.

any problem, like steel wire sticking out on the edge or anything?

No problem. You have to cut the wire with cutters as close to or just below the remaining teflon. Then I put a pinhead size drop of silicone over the spot.

 

[MadDog]

Quote:

Originally posted by mchurgin Then I put a pinhead size drop of silicone over the spot. [/B]

You mean just over the spot where steel wire is located or sround the cable? Where did you buy silicon drops?

 

[mchurgin]

You mean just over the spot where steel wire is located or sround the cable? Where did you buy silicon drops?

Yes for now I put a drop right where the tip of the wire meets the end of the memory fit outer casing. I just put it there as a precaution and I dont think it is really needed for anything. I dont know that it will stay very long being so tiny. I guess if it doe not stay I could try a small bead around the cable where the casing and audio cable meet. I would like touse some type of a liquid silicone if it exists for that. Remember the tip of the wire could actually be even with or just short of the casing, so it will not be sticking out.

I used regular 100% silicone from a tube. You just need to put on a drop or you'll have more silicone than earphone.

It has been about four days of constant testing, coiling, uncoiling etc. and I dont see any issues that would arise out of normal use. They do no seem any less rugged than with the memory fit cable.

 

[Sugarfried]

Quote:

Originally posted by mchurgin I checked with Shure and they told me the website is incorrect and the E5, E5c DO NOT come with the zip case. You cannot wind the E5 around the spool. The cables are to stiff. Espically with the memory fit teflon. They told me that both the E5 and the E5c ship with the velour pouch only.

Whoever you spoke with is wrong. The E5c ships with the same style of clamshell zipcase pouch that E2/E2c/E1/E1c ship with. There is no spool inside the case, as the crossover won't fit around it. So we removed the spool and used a higher quality fabric. It looks like this:

The pro audio version of E5 still ships with the velour/velcro pouch.

 

[KellDammit]

aaah, sugar beat me to it. i didn't know about the spool part tho! thanks!

well, here's my little status update...
shure will take them back/fix them for the $55 flat rate

YAY!
they said they will not perform the mod for me tho...i'm not too sure i'll run the risk of killing them again when they get back.

anyway...i'd learned that there IS a clamshell case for the e5. the part # is 95B2259. If you call their support number (extension 2), you can order it there. I think it's $12.

 

[Sugarfried]

Quote:

Originally posted by KellDammit aaah, sugar beat me to it. i didn't know about the spool part tho! thanks! well, here's my little status update... shure will take them back/fix them for the $55 flat rate YAY! they said they will not perform the mod for me tho...i'm not too sure i'll run the risk of killing them again when they get back. anyway...i'd learned that there IS a clamshell case for the e5. the part # is 95B2259. If you call their support number (extension 2), you can order it there. I think it's $12.

I'd kind of like to find out who you've been talking with, because some of the information is not correct. The replacement fee for out of warranty E1c and E2c is $55, but the fee for E5 and E5c is $100, not $55. Did you by any chance get a name of the person? I promise not to get them in any trouble, I only wish to correct them so that when nice folks like yourself call you get acurate information.

Also, the pouch that ships with E5c (without the spool) is not 95B2259. That is the pouch that comes with E1c (it has the spool in it).

The E5c pouch (no spool) is 95A2259. I hope no one ordered the other number thinking they were getting something else.

 

[penbat]

With a less stiff cord around the ears is there any less of a grip to support tri flanges in the ear if the cord is passed over the back of the ears ? Would the tri flanges be any less secure and more likey to fall out ?

 

[lindrone]

Quote:

Originally posted by penbat With a less stiff cord around the ears is there any less of a grip to support tri flanges in the ear if the cord is passed over the back of the ears ? Would the tri flanges be any less secure and more likey to fall out ?

I wouldn't think so, since the wire is still very light, and it still wraps around the top of your ear. It shouldn't have any sort of pulling motion to pull the tri-flange out from your ears.

 

[drp]

With a properly adjusted wire, I think (IMHO) they do a better job of keeping the pressure of the wire off your ears, making them much more comfortable than if the wire was resting on and following the outline of your ear, as is the case with the E2s. After a week with the E5s, and through tweaking, I do not feel the wire at all as it routes around the top of my ear. This is true for routing the wire behind my head or in front like traditional earbuds.

I use the small silicon tips, and they go in my ear just far enough to create a good seal, and also in far enough to allow the driver to fit inside my ear cavity. It's flush with my ear and feels custom made. I get a better seal with the right ear (suspect the cavity is a tad smaller) so have a pair of tri-flange tips on order to try out; should be here mid-week.

Also (IMHO), you should work to get the driver and tip to fit comfortably in your ear, creating its own support, and not think of the wire stiffener as a hanger for keeping the E5s attached and secured to your ear

 

[penbat]

Hey guys i went for the mod. It worked out easy. I just picked away at the edge of the outer casing with my nails until a bit became detached. I was then able to pull away and remove the entire outer casing in about 3 spiral strips using only my fingers and my nails. No sharp surgical instruments required !!

I then cut the exposed wire with the inner most part of the blade of some garden secateurs !! I made sure the wire was bent at right-angles to the cable before i cut.