1. I'm afraid that
ID codes (ATIP, ADIP) can be faked. There are both faked stampers and cross-licensing that makes the situation complicated. Not all media is what it claims to be (via it's ATIP code), and as results can be of really bad quality (there are hundreds of readability scans in a forum like cdfreaks.com that show this unfortunate situation).
2.
Which disc is guaranteed? Don't trust the manufacturer ratings! If a manufacturer claims a 100 year longevity, it may mean nothing. A case in example: Verbatim DVD media rated for dye longevity of several decades, consistently fails in the hot & humid day-to-day home climate of Singapore. In less than a year! If you want to be safe, gold/phthalo CD-R discs are the only ones that are known to be safe for long. For other disc types, we just don't have enough of information.
3.
Claim: "Longevity of media for consumers is irrelevant" is wrong, imho. This claim only holds value, if you store useless crap, mostly illegal bad quality copies. If you have personal digital creations, photos, digital videos, etc. which are unique copies of some experience, then they might have very high personal value to you.
4.
Silver vs. Gold for compatibility vs storage Cyanine and azo are more compatible for burning. Silver has higher reflectivity and offers higher compatibility for reading. HOWEVER, all of those offer WORSE longevity for storage than phthalocyanine on gold. Pick your poison. If you know you can burn good quality burns with phthalo/gold discs, then they are the best option for long-term stable storage.
5.
Old CD-R discs were better than today's. This is a complicated subject and cannot be summarized into one sentence. In many ways the QA, materials and the processes of CD-R from the golden period (c. 1995-2000) were better. They cost more to produce, they were produced slower, with higher QA, with more expensive materials. However, they didn't have all the advantages of what the best media today can have (better UV shields, better scratch resistant materials esp. on label side). Today most of the CD-R stuff is produced in countries where it's the cheapest to produce, with extremely low manufacturing cost (cheapest machinery, cheapest QA, cheapest materials). This has clearly taken a toll on the quality, even though the advances in the best-of-breed machinery/materials/processes have gone forwards since those times. It's just that very few if any use these best-of-breed methods, because it's too expensive and we want to buy the cheapest stuff there is!
6.
Claim: "my discs from 199x read fine, this is all paranoia" is not the whole picture. Again, quality of discs from c. mid nineties was on the average better. Also, just because many of us have stuff that has lasted more than a decade, doesn't mean everything will. Case in point: go to cdrlabs or cdfreaks and look for threads on failed cd-rs. You'll find cases where discs have failed in less than a year. I once tried to recover stuff off a friend's 8 month old dics that looked to be in pristine condition, except that pinpoint holes had formed in the reflective layer. c. 60% of the data was completely unretrievable by conventional methods. The cheapest possible aluminium type refletive layer had completely oxidized (due to bad sputtering and consequent exposure of the reflective layer). I've even had the best of Kodak's Ultima Guard Gold peel on me physically from the label side. And these were are a time the best discs you could buy. It's all about quality of the disc, quality of the burn, method of archival and environmental factors. It used to be long ago that all Fujifilm CD-Rs woulf be wiped completely blank if they were exposed to two weeks of direct sunlight (UV radiation killed them).
In summary, I'm not trying to be an alarmist. Your data may be safe, it may not be safe. It all depends. There are way too many factors to give just simple answers without knowing the specifics.
HOWEVER, if you are dealing with unique data of value (personal, financial or otherwise) and you are storing it on optical media, then you need to take notice.
If cd-rs are just a throwaway type temporary convenience type storage form, then don't fret about it.
It all depends on what you need, how long you'd like your data to stay intact, can you replace it if it's gone (with how much work) and how much you are willing to invest in keeping it safe.
With that in mind, I conclude this long 'summary'
I'll post more detailed recommendations as I come across reliable data on the issue.
best regards,
halcyon