Shielded Full Range Speakers
Jun 25, 2007 at 5:29 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 17

Joshatdot

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I am looking into building some 4" ~ 5" shielded full range speaker boxes. I am thinking of using this:

Fostex FE127e

What do you think of it, or do you know of other shielded full range speakers.
 
Jun 25, 2007 at 3:54 PM Post #2 of 17
Not to sure...but those are made of banana fibers...which I thought was very tasty
 
Jun 25, 2007 at 6:05 PM Post #5 of 17
Jun 25, 2007 at 6:19 PM Post #6 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by MrMajestic2 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Im planning on building the small enclosure as per Fostex's recommendations:
http://www.fostexinternational.com/d...7e_enclrev.pdf

Since its my first speaker I will keep it simple. The Jordan JX92S are popular drivers also, but cost a lot more.



Yeah, that looks like a good design. I am looking into some enclosure programs to custom design mine. AJ Vented, WinISD, Unibox, Speaker Workshop

I got alot of info here: http://home.earthlink.net/~etunstal/diy.htm

Hmm..those Jordan JX92S's look very good
smily_headphones1.gif
...
edit: OMG expensive!
 
Jun 27, 2007 at 4:42 AM Post #7 of 17
Have you checked here? Lots of good stuff for single drivers. I've heard one of Dave Merrill's DCA drivers in a PAWO horn and they sounded GOOD! I believe they were 4" drivers and could go down to 45Hz when we measured them (but really shined when crossed over at 80Hz to a single sub). He has some 5.5" dirvers now that should do the lower frequencies better without so much strain.

http://melhuish.org/audio/fullrange.html
 
Jun 27, 2007 at 6:16 AM Post #8 of 17
Thanks Blooze
 
Jun 27, 2007 at 7:12 AM Post #9 of 17
I am about to use those drivers in the "Bigger is Better" enclosure. Haven't started major construction yet, but I'll post back here if and when I have some sound impressions. The "Bigger is Better" enclosure is supposed to be quite good, and can apparently pull some decent bass out of these little 5"s.

Aditya
 
Jun 28, 2007 at 5:02 AM Post #10 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by a1rocketpilot /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I am about to use those drivers in the "Bigger is Better" enclosure. Haven't started major construction yet, but I'll post back here if and when I have some sound impressions. The "Bigger is Better" enclosure is supposed to be quite good, and can apparently pull some decent bass out of these little 5"s.

Aditya



Koolz! I /hope/ to order these things on my next paycheck (in about 2 weeks) and in the mean time I am going to design a box in various programs and learn a 2D/3D program to help design them too.

1. Should I use MDF or particle board type wood, or nice looking grain wood that I could stain?
 
Jun 28, 2007 at 5:51 PM Post #11 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by Joshatdot /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Koolz! I /hope/ to order these things on my next paycheck (in about 2 weeks) and in the mean time I am going to design a box in various programs and learn a 2D/3D program to help design them too.

1. Should I use MDF or particle board type wood, or nice looking grain wood that I could stain?



I would stick with MDF for speaker building, or baltic birch plywood (the good kind, not the stuff they sell at LOWES, although the LOWES stuff will work fine if you're limited in $$$). The birch you can stain. MDF you can veneer in any wood you pretty much want or you can paint it as well. I would stay away from solid woods unless you're just gonna use bits of it as "accents". They are too sensitive to moisture changes in the air and tend to "ring" for lack of a better word. Just make sure to brace your cabinets well and damp as necessary.

As a note: MDF is very messy to work with when the cutting is being done so wear a mask. Or better yet, if you buy from LOWES or someplace you can get them to cut the panels for you for free or a small charge. Any pieces I've ever had cut were within a 1/16" and with speakers this small amount will not make any difference.
 
Jun 28, 2007 at 6:26 PM Post #12 of 17
Yes, I would also recommend MDF. Baltic Birch is great, but it is also rather expensive, though for a small enclosure, it should be fine. It isn't like you are building Kleinhorns or something. MDF is pretty easy to work with, though messy as stated above, and it does have the advantage (and disadvantage) that it is rather dense and therefore won't have many resonance issues, provided you reinforce it well.

Aditya
 
Jun 29, 2007 at 7:34 AM Post #13 of 17
reinforcing the MDF...you mean MFD hollow square brace/rib things inside the box? or 1x1' or 2x2's in the corners/edges?
 
Jun 29, 2007 at 2:30 PM Post #14 of 17
The internal braces are usually struts of some sort, I found a good way to dampen panels further when I was putting my speakers together. You essentially glue 2 - 3 layers of perfboard together with a silicon based adhesive and then bond these smaller panels on the inside of the speaker..dB
 
Jun 29, 2007 at 5:32 PM Post #15 of 17
I've done both cross braces and window frame braces. Either one will work. I like window frame bracing for the fact that I can cut the pieces to fit exactly (usually the same size as the top or bottom of the cab) and they therefore won't push the sides of the cabinet out, but still preload the sides fine.
 

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