Sharp MD33 plug mod (4 pole -> 3pole)
Dec 3, 2004 at 8:17 AM Post #17 of 30
Quote:

Originally Posted by was ist los?
Anyways, i'd like to note not to keep the iron on the plug too long. It heats up the other plastic dividers and causes them to expand. My plug looks hideous, but works.


True, that happened to me too. The plastic in the second ring expanded out quite a bit. But its pretty easy to file/cut back down.
 
Feb 2, 2005 at 1:40 AM Post #18 of 30
I used a heatsink clip, and didn't have any ring expansion, but the solder DEFINATELY didn't stay in the crack, so i had to file down quite a bit of it to make it flat, then slid a dull knife backwords to smooth it down round. Then, i stuck it in and out of a 3.5mm -> 1/4 adapter that's tighter than my mp3 player's output to make sure if it was gonna break, it wasn't gonne be in my Zen Touch.

Looks funny now, works well. My shirt pockets are finally getting some use.
 
Feb 2, 2005 at 4:01 AM Post #19 of 30
how long is the adapter cable?
 
Feb 2, 2005 at 9:46 AM Post #20 of 30
hey guppi!

thanks a lot for this mod! the 4-pole thing always kept me away from trying the md33, because i didn't want to use the long extension, and as i mostly use a remote, the cabel would have become much too long. but with this mod i think i will give them a try.

by the way another guy told me once that if you don't put the md33-plug entirely inside, they also work as 3-pole. but your method is much cooler
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Feb 2, 2005 at 10:24 AM Post #21 of 30
Just ordered my MD33s from Audiocubes last week. I appreciate the tip on making these usable without the extension as I prefer to use the ipod remote.

Because I have a fear of melting or making a mess of, the plug, I was just wondering if it might not be possible to simply get a female four pole adapter and join it to a three pole while performing the same operation with the internal wiring.... I'll see what the going price on adapters is and consider which way to go.

I'll let you know what I think of them versus the Sony ex71 (which don't grab me sonically but are very good comfort wise) and the Sony 888 (which do grab me sonically if only those little buggers stayed put when I cycle).

TonyAAA
 
Feb 6, 2005 at 7:57 AM Post #22 of 30
so far i just did this mod and its great, well i'm sort of there.

1. I removed the black stuff
2. I inserted Aluminum foil in the gap

So now I just need to put some solder in there and file it.

My question is what kind of file should i use?
 
Feb 7, 2005 at 4:30 AM Post #24 of 30
Quote:

Originally Posted by Xarthan
so far i just did this mod and its great, well i'm sort of there.

1. I removed the black stuff
2. I inserted Aluminum foil in the gap

So now I just need to put some solder in there and file it.

My question is what kind of file should i use?



i used the file on my swiss army knife, and then then rubbed the knife blade backwords across the solder to smooth it out. Then again, i do eat with my swiss army knife too.
 
Feb 28, 2005 at 8:23 AM Post #26 of 30
Looking at the E2Cs and MD33s cable length, they seem to be pretty close to each other. 1.57m vs. 1.65m. But perhaps the Shures seem shorter because of how you wear them. However, if you wear the MD33s similarly...
 
Feb 28, 2005 at 10:20 AM Post #27 of 30
Quote:

Originally Posted by XxKrNxStyLeZxX
It's too long with the extension...it's too short without it...
eh..



it is perfect without extension when you use a remote. the cable could be even 10-15 cm shorter...
 
Feb 28, 2005 at 4:15 PM Post #30 of 30
Quote:

Originally Posted by control
Do you think that i is possible to completely remove the cord and attach a new one? i hate the 4 pole plug and the neckchain style cord


i doubt it would work. most of the inner parts will be very flimsy, i doubt you could even solder a new wire. everything is so small and above all i have no idea how you could open the phones.
but if you are really a good tinker you could cut the existing wires shortly before they meet the phones and attach new wires. also a bit of fumbling but possible i think. you will only have the problem of isolating the connected part to let it look not too crappy...
 

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