[eweitzman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wwmhf Please do your best to share your information about these dimensions.

I just measured the pins on the stock cable that came with the HD-650 using a 1/1000" (1/20mm) vernier caliper:

small pin diameter: 1.30mm (0.052")
large pin diameter: 1.70mm (0.067")

pin length from body to tip: 4.00mm (0.159")

The body is 4.25mm x 3.40mm x 7.40mm.

- Eric

 

[wwmhf]

Thanks for all the inputs about the dimensions of the parts. I think the data has converged enough for me to bring them to my contact now. I have exchanged more than five e-mails today with an engineer there, and here are what I found:

1. The default wire they use is only 32 ga which is certainly not what we would like to use.
2. The largest multi-strand wire they can use is 24 ga. But they can put in single conductor wire up to 20 ga. To me 24 ga is just a little bit too small or maybe just OK, but I am not sure we like single conductor wire.
3. They can also try to use our wires. This is particularly interesting, but will demand more on us that mean we need to identify the wire, buy the wire, and send the wire to them.

As for what we want them to make, I have three ideas now dependent on

1. Using multi-stand wire: a plug with a wire about 1 foot long. We can connect it to any wire we prefer at the Y joint.
2. Using single conductor wire: a plug with a wire only a few inches long. The single conductor simply servers as soldering post.
3. Using whatever default wire: Since do not like their wire, we will use the plug by cutting the plastic off until the pin, and solder our wire directly to the pin, like some of us have been doing with those plugs cut off extra Sennheiser cables.

Comments and suggestions?

I am arranging an appointment with my contact. As suggested by jefemeister, I will bring a Sennheiser for discussion.

 

[KZEE]

For many of us DIYers geting just the pins without any wire attached would be the best scenerio - any chance of that happening?

 

[Garbz]

Before I finished reading that post i was thinking option number 2 as well. If we get a solid chunk of 20ga wire about 2 cm long to serve as a connection it would come damn close to soldering out wires directly to the pins. I'm all for that option as it gives us the customisability of buying say 30 plugs and making 15 different cables

 

[Earwax]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wwmhf Thanks for all the inputs about the dimensions of the parts. I think the data has converged enough for me to bring them to my contact now. I have exchanged more than five e-mails today with an engineer there, and here are what I found: 1. The default wire they use is only 32 ga which is certainly not what we would like to use. 2. The largest multi-strand wire they can use is 24 ga. But they can put in single conductor wire up to 20 ga. To me 24 ga is just a little bit too small or maybe just OK, but I am not sure we like single conductor wire. 3. They can also try to use our wires. This is particularly interesting, but will demand more on us that mean we need to identify the wire, buy the wire, and send the wire to them. As for what we want them to make, I have three ideas now dependent on 1. Using multi-stand wire: a plug with a wire about 1 foot long. We can connect it to any wire we prefer at the Y joint. 2. Using single conductor wire: a plug with a wire only a few inches long. The single conductor simply servers as soldering post. 3. Using whatever default wire: Since do not like their wire, we will use the plug by cutting the plastic off until the pin, and solder our wire directly to the pin, like some of us have been doing with those plugs cut off extra Sennheiser cables. Comments and suggestions? I am arranging an appointment with my contact. As suggested by jefemeister, I will bring a Sennheiser for discussion.

I don't really like the idea of solid core wire at all. I'm too worried about it breaking with repeated flexing.

My first choice would be to have 10 or 12 feet of 24 ga. multi-strand attached. If it's not desired, people can cut it off at whatever length they like.

Second choice - 18 inches of 24 ga. multi-strand (only if the per foot charge makes #1 unattractive)

Third choice - a few inches of 20 ga. solid core.

 

[jmzzz01]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wwmhf Comments and suggestions?

How about a plug that fits into the headphones and was, at the other end, terminated to provide soldering tabs so that one could use virtually any wire? Then you could use your own wire formula and add techflex/heatshrink to finish it off...

 

[wwmhf]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmzzz01 How about a plug that fits into the headphones and was, at the other end, terminated to provide soldering tabs so that one could use virtually any wire? Then you could use your own wire formula and add techflex/heatshrink to finish it off...

I have asked whether they could just make a plug with only pins on it such that the pins are exposed outside for us to solder whatever wires we like. The answer is negative because their machine is set up to put plastic all around the pins. This is why I am considering the third option by which we just cut the plastic off by ourselves.

 

[wwmhf]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Earwax My first choice would be to have 10 or 12 feet of 24 ga. multi-strand attached. If it's not desired, people can cut it off at whatever length they like. Second choice - 18 inches of 24 ga. multi-strand (only if the per foot charge makes #1 unattractive)

My concern here is whether the 24 ga. wire can give us enough performance increase to compensate our effort. I really want to know this. If so, this is sounds like a better option.

 

[wwmhf]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Earwax I don't really like the idea of solid core wire at all. I'm too worried about it breaking with repeated flexing.

I can understand your concern. On the other hand, this concern can be reduced by using some protection materials such as heat-shrink tube.

 

[eweitzman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmzzz01 How about a plug that fits into the headphones and was, at the other end, terminated to provide soldering tabs so that one could use virtually any wire? Then you could use your own wire formula and add techflex/heatshrink to finish it off...

My thoughts exactly. If these people make their own pins, then maybe they could be made longer so they protrude out the bottom. If they were hollow or had solder cups on the end, you could use any wire. The body should be as narrow as practical to accommodate heatshrink that goes over the wire/cable.

- Eric

 

[Nak Man]

Quote:

Originally Posted by eweitzman If these people make their own pins, then maybe they could be made longer so they protrude out the bottom.

To me this is the best case scenario, followed by a foot of 24ga stranded to the Y connector (should be more than enough for a few miliwatts to travel =).

edit - don't like the idea of prying plastic mold, need something strong to grip the connectors instead of pulling / plugging cable directly.

 

[Earwax]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wwmhf I can understand your concern. On the other hand, this concern can be reduced by using some protection materials such as heat-shrink tube.

I'm hoping to avoid, as much as possible, the situation you get with some of the after-market cables -- where a few inches of very stiff material protrudes from the bottom of the connector and jabs you in the shoulders.

 

[jogor]

even if we have the pins will making the plug mold to hold the pin be possible for diy? it would be easy if a mold plug (which could be dismantled without destroying) something like the ones used by zu mobius be made available also. this will make it reusable and it would look way much better. just my thought.

 

[Garbz]

A dismantled plug would be too complicated IMHO.

Personally i think if they can be manufactured just like the sennheiser plugs only with the pins say 1" long then we can not only solder directly too them, but also cover them in heatshrink and use them to pull onto to remove. There's nothing sturdier then pulling the pins themselves.

 

[akira]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Earwax I'm hoping to avoid, as much as possible, the situation you get with some of the after-market cables -- where a few inches of very stiff material protrudes from the bottom of the connector and jabs you in the shoulders.

Of course we should cut the stiff wire as short as we like, but enough for soldering.